power steering pump leaking

[sillyme]

it's leaking right where the hose is connected to the pump. i replaced the crush washer. still doesn't solve the problem. do i need a new hose or a new pump?

 

[SinaiTSi]

Sorry man, can't help you with that, hopefully someone here can. I just wanted to let you know though, that try not to let it leak on the alternator, it will kill it. Just in case you didn't know already. Good luck.

 

[2fast4]

it's leaking right where the hose is connected to the pump. i replaced the crush washer. still doesn't solve the problem. do i need a new hose or a new pump?

Crush washer is not supposed to help seal it. It's the rubber o-ring in there that counts.
There are 2 o-rings in there. I bought a Viton *o-ring assortment* pack from Autozone(actually, it required 2 separate packs to use same sizes). Also, get a tube of "dielectic grease".

Make sure to put a towel above the alternator. Unbolt the nut on p/w pump. Take the hose off. Knife out the top and bottom o-rings. Put a lot of dielectric grease around the groove where both o-rings go. Put new o-ring on bottom(find the one that fits snug) and top. Put more die-grease on it and around it(like I said, it takes 2 packs of o-rings). Gently put the hose back on and tighten it down. I tightened it down hard till metal-metal contact is made with the body(when user turns the steering, it moves the hose and some will leak out, thus, tighten it down hard enough). Then check/add more fluid on reservoir. Then follow the "bleeding" procedure that I got from CD. Oh, and the rest of o-rings are useful for other seals going out.

Bleeding process -
1. Jack up the front wheels and support them by using a floor stand.
2. Manually turn the oil pump pulley a few times.
3. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and right several times.
4. Disconnect the high-tension cable, and then, while operating
the starting motor intermittently, turn the steering wheel all
the way to the left and right several times (for 1-5 to 20
seconds).

Caution
1. During air bleeding, replenish the fluid supply so that
the level never falls below the lower positiin of the filter.
2. If air bleeding is done while engine is running, the air
will be broken up and absorbed into the fluid; be sure
to do the bleeding only while cranking.

5. Connect the ignition cable, and then start the engine (idling).
6. Turn the steering wheel to the left and right until there are
no air bubbles in the oil reservoir.
7. Confirm that the fluid is not milky, and that the level is upi
to the specified position on the level gauge.
8. Confirm that there is very little change in the fluid level when
the steering wheel is turned left and right.
9. Check whether or not the change in the fluid level is within
5 mm (.2 in.) when the engine is stopped and when it is
running.

Caution
1. If the change of the fluid level is 5 mm I.2 in.) or more,
the air has not been completely bled from the system,
and thus must be bled completely.
2. If the fluid level rises suddenly after the engine is
stopped, the air has not been completely bled.
3. If air bleeding is not complete, there will be abnormal
noises from the pump and the flow-control valve, and
this condition could cause a lessening of the life of the
pump, etc.

 

[oldman]

^^^^Good post 1fast4 but make sure to always give credit to materials copied, I'm talking about the bleeding procedure of course.

 

[2fast4]

^^^^Good post 1fast4 but make sure to always give credit to materials copied, I'm talking about the bleeding procedure of course.

I said it but hard to get it...The credit source is from DSM-CD manual. It is some work just to bleed it. Personally, I got by with starting the motor and turning the steering wheel from lock-to-lock on both sides. I held it locking for 5 seconds before moving to the other side. Did it several times, stopped the motor and restart it again and do the same. Then I drove 1,200 miles and back. Now, the shaft area is leaking, so I put in some Lucas steering leak stopper. Monitoring...

 

[oldman]

I said it but hard to get it...The credit source is from DSM-CD manual. It is some work just to bleed it. Personally, I got by with starting the motor and turning the steering wheel from lock-to-lock on both sides. I held it locking for 5 seconds before moving to the other side. Did it several times, stopped the motor and restart it again and do the same. Then I drove 1,200 miles and back. Now, the shaft area is leaking, so I put in some Lucas steering leak stopper. Monitoring...

My bad, I read it again and you did credit the source. I too have always bleed on the ground with the engine on, in fact that is the directions given in the Haynes.

 

[2fast4]

I too have always bleed on the ground with the engine on, in fact that is the directions given in the Haynes.

Haynes said that? That's another important data point.

So it appears that it is safe to say that "lock-to-lock" several times is good enough to bleed it out? This means night and day difference between Mitsu's manual vs common way of bleeding like the Haynes manual. Mitsu's way is to unbolt/bolt pump bolts, jacking it up, turning by hand and cranking it...whew, that's half day work for me. I had done the Hayne's way years ago, too, w/o adverse implications. Thank god, and you!!!