Power Steering line replacement

[goalieboy1]

hey guys, recently i just purchased a new 1990tsi FWD and after a short while of driving it my alternator failed. I pulled it out and had it cleaned up and it was working again. In the process i noticed i had a leak coming off my power steering line that attaches to the pump (banjo fitting) so i pulled the same line out of my parts car which has no engine in it and realized it is going to be next to impossible to get at with the engine in the way. but on the hose id say almost midway it looks liketheres a nut there that you can maybe twist off and just replace the hose from that point forward. i dunno if that makes sense haha. Im just wondering if you can do this or not. if not, whats the easiest way to get the hose off?

 

[DSM90AWD]

If leaking at the pump, likely you will only need to replace the o-ring on the banjo fitting (at least was the case with mine)

 

[NN4S]

I just dealt with this problem as well on my 92 GSX; replacing the two O-rings on the fitting were all that was required to eliminate the leak. Be sure to cover the alternator with a plastic bag & some rags (to soak up all of the fluid that'll spill out) before you start. You will also want a small bag (maybe a Zip-Loc?) to stick the hose end into to help keep fluid from going everywhere while it's off the pump.

When you pull the fitting, you can unscrew the mount from the pump. It has an O-ring on the bottom (comes off real easy) and one in a groove near the middle (base of the threads; it seals the top of the fitting). Pull these off and match them with the closest fit from an assortment (mine are from Harbor Freight) and screw the piece back into the pump. Although it probably won't be an issue because of the spillage, be sure to lubricate the O-rings with ATF prior to installing the hose fitting. Once it's back on, retighten to the specified torque and then clean everything really well with brake parts cleaner so that you can identify any seepage. Refill the system with ATF+ or DextronII/III (yes, that's what the 92 FSM specifies!) and bleed any air out of it by turning the wheels back & forth (engine running, of course) with the cap removed from the resevoir. When you have no more bubbles & the fluid is at the proper level, you're ready to go! You should be able to feel the difference in required turning force as the system bleeds out any air that's found it's way in.