power loss in 2nd & 3rd but slowly comes back

[1Gina2G]

Okay everyone this is a new engine & manual transmission build running stock boost and 450 injectors on a newly rebuilt small 16g running 93 pump gas.

The cars been dead in the garage the past 2 years so i have been getting used to the new feel,but as soon as i shift into second it's almost like it bogs down but its not dieing in 2nd, it hesitates for a few seconds but it eventually picks up and sounds normal up untill its time to shift into 3rd at which point it does the same thing but not as often. Some times 3rd wont even do it but it will.

The closest feel i can describe without making a video is how it feels if you shift into a higher gear at a lower speed but im sure thats not it.

Theres been 2 times the car has randomly died while moving - 1. Slowing down for a turn, shut off 100 feet from the turn in neutral. 2. Accelerating on a strait road in 5th for some reason, when it happened in 5th i think it may have popped into neutral first but im not positive- would that do that?

Ive done a few boost leak tests after warming up, checked TPS position and voltage and its still on point. Fuel pressure and oil pressure and boost gauges all show normal readings and are all aftermarket. Lc1 wideband shows perfect readings, shows it going rich as it should when you accelerate hard.

Rechecked ignition timing with the engine warmed up, set at 5 but was thinking about going to 7 since its a 6 bolt block. From what i saw in a haynes manual atleast.

80w-90 oil in the trans , 10w30 conveniental in the engine.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Can you make a log? You might be pulling timing for one reason or another. PK, maybe?

 

[1Gina2G]

Can you make a log? You might be pulling timing for one reason or another. PK, maybe?

All i have is evoscan, which with my ECU only logs somethings. Honestly still getting used to the program, which doesn't seem to work in drive for me.

Whats pk?

 

[dsmgraveyard]

open your ecu and check it out for bad capacitors 89-94 Capacitor Replacement

 

[clipto]

Do a tune up and get tuned with ecmlink. What sparkplug and gap your using? How much boost urrunnijg . small 16g is way bigger airflow then the stock t25 tune.

 

[1Gina2G]

Do a tune up and get tuned with ecmlink. What sparkplug and gap your using? How much boost urrunnijg . small 16g is way bigger airflow then the stock t25 tune.

Still learning about tuning and i understand evoscan is limited with my ecu. Does the same info for capacitors apply to 2G ecus as the link is for 1gs.

I forgot to mention i checked spark plug gap, gapped to .28 with new NGK plugs & wires.
The plugs are the BPR 7ES cold plugs

Stock boost 9-12 psi i believe, have yet to see it go passed 12 but ive been taking everything really easy since im still breaking in.

I don't believe im running rich or lean, according to my wideband, new factory 02 sensor and my exhaust temperature

 

[PieEyedPiper]

PK = Phantom Knock

95 ECUs are getting a lot older now. I'm sure much of the 1g cap replacement guides can relate well to the 95 ECU.

 

[zachwilliams02]

i think you guys are taking a step too far and overlooking small things. if its been sitting for two years a stuck bov or vented bov could cause both of theses things. if a bov is vented to the atmosphere it will run rich and try to kill the car.... i know ive done it. and a stuck one will cause the turbo to try and spin backwards and make it not spool very quick. hopefully a member with more experance than me can check in here but that would be my first thing id check. just my .02

 

[1Gina2G]

i think you guys are taking a step too far and overlooking small things. if its been sitting for two years a stuck bov or vented bov could cause both of theses things. if a bov is vented to the atmosphere it will run rich and try to kill the car.... i know ive done it. and a stuck one will cause the turbo to try and spin backwards and make it not spool very quick. hopefully a member with more experance than me can check in here but that would be my first thing id check. just my .02

Thanks for contributing. I was aware that a vented bov requires tuning to run it properly so i have my 1G BOV connected to the turbos intake pipe. So because of that its not so easy to hear even though i have all hard piping minus the factory rubber piece that connects it to the intake pipe.

If the BOV was stuck, would you still hear it going off? I hear it when i shift but not every time.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

i think you guys are taking a step too far and overlooking small things. if its been sitting for two years a stuck bov or vented bov could cause both of theses things. if a bov is vented to the atmosphere it will run rich and try to kill the car.... i know ive done it. and a stuck one will cause the turbo to try and spin backwards and make it not spool very quick. hopefully a member with more experance than me can check in here but that would be my first thing id check. just my .02

While a malfunctioning bov would certainly be an issue, the OP's case points in other directions. I can see how someone might associate this kind of behavior though and it sure wouldn't hurt to go around checking small stuff like that since the car has been sitting. But chances are the bov still works.

OP, post up your logs!!

 

[1Gina2G]

What exactly should i log though? I just have ecoscan and i know you don't want to have all the options checked so that its faster.

Anyone have any experience with evoscan on eprom ecus? Last time i tried i was having problems logging in drive. I actually made a thread about it but i believe we couldn't get to the bottom of the issue. Its been a while so ill try once im back home on friday.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I just searched around about 95 ecu vs evoscan.

Lame.

If you can log at all, you'd be ahead of the rest. Timing and rpm might be telling in itself. I'm not sure if knock is available. I'm afraid without a good logging solution it may be difficult to address. I assume you've already checked/tested things like plugs, wires, hoses, coils, etc.

 

[1Gina2G]

I just searched around about 95 ecu vs evoscan.

Lame.

If you can log at all, you'd be ahead of the rest. Timing and rpm might be telling in itself. I'm not sure if knock is available. I'm afraid without a good logging solution it may be difficult to address. I assume you've already checked/tested things like plugs, wires, hoses, coils, etc.

Yeah i misread a few things before i bought the program, got carried away after confirming i do have an eprom ecu, which is what you want for dsmlink but not evoscan. With evoscan you can only log, but it sure helped setting the TPS voltage and postion percentage.

There's a cupple of things for knock and timing on there but i don't have my lap top with me for the moment.

Just wondering- if there was some knocking would it show while idling? Or more in drive? Would it be a bad idea to advance the timing from 5 to 7 using the timing light? Thanks

 

[1Gina2G]

What i mean is, is it possible to only have knock in drive? Or if it has PK would it still be detectable
While idleing?

Is it a bad idea to try to advance the timing to 7 from 5? Thanks

 

[PieEyedPiper]

If it is timing retard of some kind, it likely doesn't exhibit itself unless under load. During your loss of power. I'd not change base timing in this case. Wouldn't hurt to check mechanical timing though. I wish I could be of more help.

 

[largetalons]

it sounds like i have the exact same issue with my 96 tsi. it also has been sitting all winter, and it just started doing this after i started driving again. did you figure out what the problem was yet bud?

 

[1Gina2G]

it sounds like i have the exact same issue with my 96 tsi. it also has been sitting all winter, and it just started doing this after i started driving again. did you figure out what the problem was yet bud?

Im still experiencing the same problem and still working out some things in evoscan. I should be able to have a log posted up here in a cupple days. Let me say that when i first said the car was sitting, how that was just the shell for the most part, i was just saying thats how long it took for the entire rebuild.

With that said, I've actually been wondering if the issue is within the transmission itself. It's really hard to say. So far im going on the very first 200 miles since the engine and trans rebuilds, i know atleast 500-1000 miles is a safe mile point to be considered 'broken in' so im wondering if things will smoothen up with enough driving.

Once i get home in a cupple days, im going to log timing and knock values idleing & in drive , at which point after the drive, with the engine warmed up i will ground the timing connector and proceed to double check ignition timing and probably mechanical as well.

I'll keep everyone updated.

 

[largetalons]

dude my trans has healed itself thru driving and shifting many times. i know that my slave cylinder (at least just the push rod in it) needs to be replaced because it gets worn down and eventually you can push your clutch pedal down, but the clutch itself wont completely engage.

 

[zachwilliams02]

I just bought one which is doing the exact same thing it looses all power after 5k Rpms. My wideband says its really rich but I'm running a stock tune on 15 psi on a EVO316g