Power Distribution Theory and Accidental Experiment (HELP!!)

[laserspeeddemon]

Ok, as you may know. I have been down (to say the least) on luck when it comes to Clutches. But at this point, I've come to believe that may newfound problem may not be the result of the clutch at all. I will start from the beginning and be as detailed as possible.

My original ACT2600 Clutch failed. The spring popped out. After destroying the disc and Fidanza Flywheel, I opted to replace both parts. So I installed a new ACT Street Clutch Disc, but used the same ACT2600 Pressure Plate and used an old stock flywheel I had lying around. Very soon after, I attempted a launch but to my dismay. The Clutch slipped HORRIBLY and there after it seemed like the clutch was always slipping in every gear including 1st. No matter how slow I go, no matter how gentle I push the gas, the engine revs go up, but the car barely goes anywhere. Soon my ACT StreetLite Flywheel arrived. So I pulled the tranny. The Clutch looked PERFECTLY fine, I could find NOTHING wrong. I was frustrated. Also at this time I noticed that my yoke was leaking (burnt oil crusted to exhaust). So I pulled the yoke off, sealed the backside with aviator’s sealant (better the JB Weld), but I had to let it dry for 2 days. I wired up the drive shaft. To make sure it wouldn’t “wobble” loose, I turned the tires and watched the shaft spin. But then I noticed the driver side tire was not spinning the driveshaft. So I gave the axle a good yank and it came out of the rear differential a bit. So I unbolted the axle from the hub and found that the spline side of the axle was busted in two inside the rear differential. So I took out the rear differential and cleaned it out real well. Then I rolled it out of the shop into a parking lot. A week later (yesterday) I drove the talon in and the slipping-feeling was WAY worse. It was almost not worth driving. Right now, I have re-installed the Rear Differential and Yoke. I just need to re-install the T-case and rear axles.
So I started to wonder….

How does the power distribution work on these cars? Since the slipping clutch happened at the same time the axle probably broke, is the slipping "feeling" caused by the power going to that one tire that has no resistance. And since I disconnected the T-case. Does that mean that practically all the power is now going to the freely spinning shaft that that Transfer case would normally cause resistance...

Can anyone give me an answer to these questions?

 

[steve]

How does the power distribution work on these cars? Since the slipping clutch happened at the same time the axle probably broke, is the slipping "feeling" caused by the power going to that one tire that has no resistance. And since I disconnected the T-case. Does that mean that practically all the power is now going to the freely spinning shaft that that Transfer case would normally cause resistance...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32901&page=1&pp=25

If your driving the car with the transfer case off you have likely trashed the center VCU.
If you break or pop a rear axle, or the drive shaft for that matter, the slipping of the VCU will feel a lot like a slipping clutch as the diffs try to transfer all the power to the disconnected side and the VCU tries to limit it. Drive around like that, or get towed by two wheels, and the VCUs heat up trying to make every turn at the same speed and burn out.

Steve

 

[laserspeeddemon]

ah fack!

Well, when the rear driver side axle broke. I drove the car to the shop. It felt "slippish" the whole way that was maybe 20 mi. After it was at the shop it was only driven from inside the shop to parking lot outside the shop and back in again. Maybe 50 meters total. You think this was enough to fry my VCU.