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Possibly installing clutch myself

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rob1621

15+ Year Contributor
387
0
Jan 4, 2007
Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin
ok so me and my dad a fairly good mechanics and we wanted to know if it is hard to install a new clutch and flywheel if we have never done it before? are there a lot of things that can go wrong? should i do anything else while changing the clutch/flywheel? Any info is appreciated.
 
its on a GSX right?

i did it on mine 93 eagle talon tsi and my friends 95 gsx its not that hard.

i would change the TOB and check the clutch fork, what kinda clutch you putting in?
 
definitely check your fork and make sure its dead center of where it sticks out of the tranny. If it's going in a ways you may need to shim your pivot ball... Or just replace to be safe.

Definitely do the TOB and double check your clutch fork too.
 
If you have a garage to work in, hand tools, and time I would go ahead and do it yourself.

Make sure your flywheel step height jives with clutch setup. Especially if you are running a flywheel and clutch from different manufacturers.

You might think about bleeding the clutch and you will have to replace the fluid in the transmission and transfer case. You could remove the clutch restrictor too if you want.

Maybe consider doing a rear main seal while it is apart. You can do the axle seals and transfer case seal too if you want.

A transmission jack makes moving the transmission much easier but it is not absolutely needed. The higher you can get the car the better (if you aren't lucky enough to be using a lift). If you do it on the floor a good set of jack stands is a good investment. An impact wrench is pretty handy too.

I had a lot of trouble getting my axles out and ended up replacing both with remanufactured because I trashed the boots.

Read these:

VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions -> dsm -> drivetrain -> 2g clutch swap

Articles: Drivetrain - DSM Forums

Seth
 
ok well ive never worked with a tranny or in that area before...so i have no idea what you are talking about when you say TOB and fork....
 
..throw out bearing....got it. but fork?



editOMGk nevermind i found it all out. But is the fork recommended to change, like how should i know if it needs to be replaced?





Also, i have a 99 gsx with 135,xxx miles and im pretty sure the tranny fluid was never changed. Should i change that along with teh transfer case fluid? If yes, what kind?
 
Yea you will have to change the trans fluid since when you pull the axles out of it a lot of the fluid will pour out of it from those holes.
 
me and my dad did it ourselves, I have done engine and tranny swaps on big trucks and RWD v8s and that was realy easy but FWD is a little tricky. The biggest trouble is space, it is a tight fit. just make sure to mark all you wires and clips and keep you bolts and parts separated and you should be fine:thumb:
 
well mine is a awd.....

but how do you check if the fork is bad?
 
I agree with the others on changing the fluids while it's out. As for the fork check it for visible signs of wear, nicks, or any other visible damage
 
Ok so i ordered my clutch and flywheel today.

This is what else i am going to order

-throw out bearing. (also, do i need the clutch release clip?)
-pivot ball.
-Pennzoil tranny fluid (3quarts)

Now what else will i need?
 
I would recommend either EVO 9 MR gear oil or mix half redline shockproof heavyweight and 80290 valvoline gear oil. Synchromesh destroys the synchros and everything else doesn't quite have the right friction modifiers. Both of those oil recommendations come from Jack from Jack's Transmissions and he is considered an authority on DSM trannys.

Yes get the clutch release clip. Also you probably need to replace your clutch slave cylinder and possibly your master cylinder, pull back the boot on both of them, if its leaking fluid REPLACE IT. Also its a good idea to replace the clutch line with a stainless steel one. Do not get the full line as it wont make a difference, just get the shorter of the two, its around 30 dollars.
 
I would throw some locktight thread locker on the flywheel bolts when you install them. Don't want those suckers comming loose on ya! I have pulled my tranny about 8 times now. Like 97boostedTSI said I would make sure when you put the tranny back in that the clutch fork sits in the middle or even a little towards the passanger side of the opening on the tranny bell housing. If it is toward the driver side you need to put a washer behind the pivot ball or buy a new clutch fork. I have had to pull the tranny back out to put a stupid washer behind the pivot ball before :banghead: It would go into gear if the motor was off, but with the motor running. It would not go into gear.

It took me a couple times to figure out :aha: when removing the drive shafts, undo the two lower control arms of the suspension from the subframe and not by seperating the ball joints on the hub. It's suck a beotch to separate ball joints, plus it totaly jacks up the rubber boot that protects them from dirt and water.

Do you have an engine crane to hold up the engine while the tranny is out?

Good luck man you can do it for sure. :thumb:
 
Tanner, you have it backwards. You want the clutch fork in the middle or towards the drivers side where it protrudes out the boot. If it's towards the passengers side, you need to shim. You can see that info at the bottom of the link I posted above.

I would check your fork. Check the pads near the tob as well as the indent where the fulcrum sits. If either of these sections don't look right, you'll need a new one.

Make sure you get an OEM tob.

New flywheel bolts (if yours don't look good) and red Loctite.

If you don't plan on launching the car really hard, I'd go with a mixture of Redline MTL (1 bottle) and MT-90 (2 bottles). If you plan on launching the car hard and often, go with the lightweight shockproof. Both of these are per twicks69's suggestion. I also was told the Redline combo by Jacks.

Make sure your block to transmission dowel pins aren't messed up. If so, get new ones.

Make sure to lube up the tob, fulcrum, and fork well.
 
Tanner, you have it backwards. You want the clutch fork in the middle or towards the drivers side where it protrudes out the boot. If it's towards the passengers side, you need to shim.

You are right :coy: I did get it backwards. That's what I get for not looking under the car. Good catch man :applause:
 
Wow, it seems like it just keeps getting more more expensive and confusing to install.
 
Wow, it seems like it just keeps getting more more expensive and confusing to install.


yea man but look at the bright side if you do all the stuff these guy's told you won't risk your clutch fork going bad or your master or slave cylinder going bad because our gonna replace them while doing your clutch and flywheel. Take it this way would you rather pull out your tranny once or 3-4 times? Anyways good luck man
 
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