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Possibly installing clutch myself

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rob1621

15+ Year Contributor
387
0
Jan 4, 2007
Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin
ok so me and my dad a fairly good mechanics and we wanted to know if it is hard to install a new clutch and flywheel if we have never done it before? are there a lot of things that can go wrong? should i do anything else while changing the clutch/flywheel? Any info is appreciated.
 
ok, so now whats the average price of a slave and master cylinder? ive sseen from $10-$120
 
1) clutch master is $105 (all at ExtremePSI)
2) clutch slave is $55.23
3) OEM TOB is $29.45
4) and don't forget the OEM clutch release clip, only $1.73

I did my first clutch job last Fall and I am very glad I did. Of course, I was scared of wrecking my car... but I had the VFAQ guide and TWO seperate manuals, HAYNES and the OEM service manual.

Since you're pulling out the transmission, I'd recommend replacing the little things. I replaced both axle seals, rear main, flywheel bolts, TOB and clip, fulcrum, ect., you get the picture. Good luck to you.
 
I would recommend replacing the two (master/slave), but if they're working properly, the master is able to be adjusted properly, and neither are leaking, I would say you can get away with not replacing them to save some cash. I just did my clutch job and didn't replace either as they have been working fine.

Although, now I'm not too sure what's going on with the master as I can't adjust it exactly as Jack's video on clutch adjustment demonstrates.
 
OK well im not 100% on what a slave and master cylinder does, but how do you tell -from driving- that they are bad?

because i dont know if its from that but my clutch pedal is different compared to others, it doesnt really have that pop to it, it just goes in and comes out, doesnt really sping in or out.....is that a problem from one of those two or????
 
Pull the boot (rubber part) back and if it is leaking fluid then it is bad. That is the best indication as to when it needs to be replaced.
 
I just took mine to a shop that I knew had done several AWD DSM clutches. For me (and you have to figure this out yourself) $480 in labor was cheap to pay for piece of mind and getting it back quickly. I once found myself in the middle of a clutch repair on a Subaru and after that I'll just pay to get it done (worked out but was a serious learning experience).
 
Yeah im getting closer and closer to the idea of going to the shop.

If i do go to the shop, and this isnt any special type of dsm shop, just a regular auto shop...

What are the things i should tell the mechanic to do specially to the car? like compare our install to a average car install, what do we do differently in our cars?

just what should i tell the mechanic to do or watch out for?

(also all i have is the clutch and flywheel, if that is of any importance)
 
Absolutely for the love of god tell him to torque everything to spec, NOTHING MORE. The last 2 clutch jobs I did I ended up having to grind out bolts and do tons of things because everything was wayyyyy overtorqued. Thats why I like to do all of this myself. Also tell him to double check and make sure the clutch fork is either in the center of the window in the bell housing if not slightly closer to the slave cylinder.
 
Ok i will tell hom to torque to spec. But is that it?In a general clutch install by a mechanic, will he change the TOB and stuff like that if it needs to be? or will he just install it and not even mind any of that?
 
It really depends on the type of mechanic you take it too. If you are over 75,000 miles you should replace your slave cyl, master cyl, TOB, TOB Fork and Pivot ball without question even if it does look okay in all honesty. Buy all the parts and bring them to him and tell him you want ALL of that replaced.
 
...but wouldnt the mechanic get better prices on those prices?
 
I highly doubt that, typically mechanics overcharge for everything. Unless you have a connection you know is doing the work and has a source he can get all of the parts himself you are basically going to pay atleast the MSRP for the good authentic Mitsu OEM replacements.
 
Ahh i see. well I think he will hook me up. i dont know ill talk to the mechanic next weekend.
 
If you want to cross reference some prices check out jnztuning.com or extremepsi.com they both have good prices on OEM stuff, Good luck!
 
Do a google search for soutwest mitsubishi.com OEM Mitsubishi Parts
or use the link if it works.
Buy parts from them. They are legit. It's a Ford/Mitsu dealer in TX. Best discount I've found.
Whether you do it yourself or not, which you should (buy a torque wrench, and follow what everyone told you on here), you HAVE TO replace the TOB, fork and pivot ball while you do the clutch. The only way you can access those parts is by removing the trans. You can inspect the fork and ball, and cross your fingers, but you'll hate yourself when your TOB goes out 10K miles after you put in your new clutch. The fork and ball add like $75. It's cheap insurace, but the TOB is mandatory. It should come in any good kit. The clips are like $5, and should be considered part of the TOB.
You can replace the master(at the pedal, on the firewall), or the slave(at the clutch, bolted to the side of the trans), whenever the hell you feel like it, but the rest of that stuff is inside the bell-housing, and you can only get to it by taking the whole damn car apart again.
(Waterboy-style): "You can do it!":banghead:
 
:D :D :D im taking my car in to the shop in about 15 min. Im so pumped! anyway, i dont have the time to order any tranny fluids so..


WHAT IS THE BEST KIND OF TRANNY FLUID YOU CAN GET AT A NAPA OR CARQUEST OR WEAVER AUTO PARTS? i really need this soon so i can tell the guy what i want in it.
 
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