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pocketlogger/mmcd questions

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t4-teg

15+ Year Contributor
111
0
Nov 14, 2007
Vero Beach, Florida
*EDIT* New log at bottom.

I just bought a palm with pocketlogger and MMCD installed already. He took it off his car when he upgraded, so its known working. I hooked it up to the car, and it wont log at all. In Pocketlogger it will read the parameters and whatnot, it just wont log. When I hit log, it says unable to connect, please check your connections. Ive tried to switch the 2 black wires around and still the same thing. Red wire is connected to the top right prong(clip facing up).

It gets power and everything it just says it cannot connect to log.

And on the MMCD program, I just have no idea at all how to log, LOL.. Do I just click monitor, as im going WOT or what?

Ive tried searching around on here, but nothing helpful with my problems.
 
What version MMCD are you using? I'm using v1.8 and it works extremely well. Yes, you choose "monitor", check "log", and uncheck "pause". You can also choose to have the graph displayed with your selected sensor readouts.

//edit//
Ah dammit, "toofast82" really is too fast LOL!
 
OK, that's what I thought. I'm guessing in order to keep it logging the car must be moving. I clicked monitor when the car was idling, and it pulled some info, but only for like 3-4 seconds. How does it work, increasing RPM keeps it logging or something?

On a side note, how do I log with the pocket logger. Ive got the 3 wires hooked up correctly to the Diagnostic port, yet it still says "unable to connect to the ecu". Ive been told the Pocket logger program is better than MMCD, but I would really like to learn how to use both programs, just for personal experience.

As for the version of MMCD, im not exactly sure. Ill have to look into it.
 
mmcd will log at idle,cruise whatever for pretty long, but i never tried to max the time out. double check your plugs snug with the palm as i find this an issue sometimes. dont forget to highlight what sensors you want it to monitor
 
EDIT: MMCD version 1.8g


OK I got both the MMCD and pocketlogger to log. I have no idea how to upload the logs to the computer, im not sure if I can since im not the orginal owner. I tried downloading the hotsync things from mmcd site, but it wont upload to the computer..

ANYWAY...

When im logging, im noticing a few things, First, I selected o2-F as one of the parameters to log. The voltage stays constant at 2.96 volts, is this normal?

Also, the most knock ive seen through all my pulls is 5 counts, at 18* timing. Is this OK?

Fuel trim throughout the whole log is 100% and FTo2 is at 100% the whole log also.

On MMCD, one of the parameters im logging says FUEL. What is this? at WOT im seeing as high as 112.4PSI, I know theres no way in hell this is fuel PSI?

INJP at WOT is right around 18.4ms with INJD at 90.6% duty cycle WOT. @ 22* timing, 0 knock.

How am I looking guys? Sorry for these noob questions, I obviously have some reading/learning to do.
 
"INJP at WOT is right around 18.4ms with INJD at 90.6% duty cycle WOT. @ 22* timing, 0 knock."

That sounds good but your duty cycle is getting high. I wouldnt raise the boost any with it like that
you also want your fuel trim at 100%
 
Looks good, your IDCs are a little high, your getting close to its maximum potential which is like over-time for your injectors. Maybe turn the boost down till you get into the 80-85% IDC

In my experience FT-O2 should oscillate. O2-F is not used on 1gs, O2-R is what you want and it should oscillate from something like .3xx to .7xx while your idling/cruising. When you go WOT under boost i think its like .8x-.9x ish...I can't remember I've always used a wideband O2.

Your timing is right on...you want 18-20*. I wish my timing looked like that everyday:cry:.
 
Ok heres the kicker... Im running WG only, no boost controller, im at about 8-9psi on my autometer gauge, Wideband reads 15:1ish in boost, but from logging it with 0 knock, I think the WB is wrong.
 
I concur w/ everything already stated.

t4-teg said:
Ok heres the kicker... Im running WG only, no boost controller, im at about 8-9psi on my autometer gauge, Wideband reads 15:1ish in boost, but from logging it with 0 knock, I think the WB is wrong.

That IS awkward. With the stock 450cc injectors and wastegate pressure you shouldn't be running that lean or even be near maxing them out yet. What's the maintenance history on your fuel system? Perhaps it's a clogged fuel filter and/or injectors. I would run some fuel system cleaner to see if that helps any.

On my 2g DSM, I was at 14psi and was running pig rich on boost. This was with the stock fuel system and full bpu.

On my VR-4, I'm currently at 14psi w/ ~85% peak IDC on boost. This is with 15G's, full bpu, stock 360cc injectors, hotwired fuel pump, AEM afpr @ 48-49psi, and S-AFC + MMCD.

//edit//
Yes, I'm aware that he has a TD05 14B that flows more compared to the T25.
 
I just changed the fuel filter, but that didnt help any. If the injectors were clogged, I dont think I would be running at 90% IJDC would I? I would think if they were clogged, it would be running less duty cycle? Or maybe they would be running at a higher duty cycle because they are clogged a little and still trying to supply enough fuel to the cyl... IDK, I'm confused. ROFL

Anyway, I think the gauge is mis-calibrated or the new sensor I put in is bad, becuse from all my logs, with ZERO knock for the most part, I dont see how I could be running THAT lean..

IDK, I'm hoping someone more knowledgeable about this can chime in, Because to be honest, my mind is boggled ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL
 
Isn't it supposed to be the top left pin?
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Yeh Its on that pin, the wire is Red though..

Thats all connected correctly. It logs fine now, now im more or less trying to figure out why my AEM WB is reading 15:1 AFR at 8-9psi boost WOT
 
I'd look for exhaust leaks, the turbine housing forms hairline cracks over-time due to the poopy design, also 1G manifolds crack as well from the same crap design flaws. Use the Mitsubishi MLS manifold gasket, turbo to manifold gasket, and the mitsu O2 housing stamped steel gasket for starters.

Take a peek at your knock sensor...see if there is goo coming out of the back of it. It should be nice and in-tact goop on the sensor.

Otherwise double check your sensor isn't in lambda or some crazy setting.
 
No exhaust leaks before the turbo. I used a ported 2g manifold, which I checked before installation, along with a ported 2g o2 housing, and stock 14b. No cracks anywhere. I used all new Mitsu gaskets. 2 manifold to head studs are missing, but I can feel around and I dont feel exhaust or anything coming out, so I dont think thats leaking.

The sensor is a new AEM sensor, but I did buy it on Ebay, without checking feedback, so Maybe ill go look at his feedback.

The gauge has been sitting in my tool box for probably 6-7 months, before that it was in my boosted teg, and didnt have any problems with it.
 
2 manifold to head studs are missing, but I can feel around and I dont feel exhaust or anything coming out, so I dont think thats leaking.

Potentially you could not feel any air coming out, but the vacuum created from exhaust pulses could be sucking air in.

I saw you mention something about a toolbox/shop I believe. If you have access to a 5-gas analyzer they're perfect for diagnosing if you have false air or a lean condition, etc.
Unless you have no catalytic converter...there is no point.
Talk to some old-timer techs they should know or have at least seen a 5-gas analyzer at some point.
If you happen to find one make sure you blow out the line and filter to get all the moisture and crap that has been sitting in it over the years.

Quick idea here, how is the weld on the O2 bung?, flex-pipe condition? - Possibly something easily overlooked perhaps?
 
EDIT: MMCD version 1.8g


OK I got both the MMCD and pocketlogger to log. I have no idea how to upload the logs to the computer, im not sure if I can since im not the orginal owner. I tried downloading the hotsync things from mmcd site, but it wont upload to the computer..

Are you running the Palm HotSync manager? You can download it from here, just be sure to get the version that matches your Palm model.


t4-teg said:
When im logging, im noticing a few things, First, I selected o2-F as one of the parameters to log. The voltage stays constant at 2.96 volts, is this normal?

For some stupid reason, O2-F isn't Front O2 like you would think. It's actually nothing on our cars. You want O2-R which corresponds to the front O2 sensor. :rolleyes:

t4-teg said:
Also, the most knock ive seen through all my pulls is 5 counts, at 18* timing. Is this OK?

It's not horrible, but I would get that number down lower if you can. If it was a random, one shot deal, don't worry about it.

t4-teg said:
Fuel trim throughout the whole log is 100% and FTo2 is at 100% the whole log also.

Is that the FT's during WOT, or idle. If it's WOT, it doesn't matter since the FT's aren't used during open loop. If that's idle, it's perfect. :thumb:

t4-teg said:
On MMCD, one of the parameters im logging says FUEL. What is this? at WOT im seeing as high as 112.4PSI, I know theres no way in hell this is fuel PSI?

Never heard of that before, I have no freakin' clue. :)

t4-teg said:
INJP at WOT is right around 18.4ms with INJD at 90.6% duty cycle WOT. @ 22* timing, 0 knock.

Is this the stock 14b? What boost pressure are you running? Your IDC seems high for the stock turbo.

As for the WBO2 reading lean, you most likely have an exhaust leak somewhere. I ran into the same problem with the Spyder and didn't notice any leaks when I was feeling around. Did a smoke test and found out the flex section was leaking like a SOB, along with a couple of the gaskets.
 
Yes its all on the 14b. Gauge is reading 8-9psi boost. At that boost level, with 0 counts of knock WOT (for the most part) its really making me think the WB gauge is off? IF I was running that leak (15:1) you would think it would knock like crazy.

What is this smoke test you speak of? :coy: I'd like to try that, and see if/where its leaking.

And no, Ive got no cat, just open downpipe, the weld around the WB sensor bung is good, I just had it done like 2-3 days ago and watched him the whole time. I even checked again afterwords thinking it may have cracked, but it didnt.
 
There is no way you should be hitting an IDC of 90% running the 14b at 9psi.

A smoke test involves using a smoke machine to fill the exhaust piping. It's basically a machine that uses compressed air to slightly pressurize the exhaust system with smoke so you can pinpoint leaks. My mechanic had one that he let me use, so I have no idea how much it costs.

Which WBO2 are you using? With some of them you need to perform a free air calibration.
 
im use the AEM WB.

Maybe ill go to the firework store and buy some smoke bombs, throw them in the exhaust and duct tape over the end. ROFL
 
X2 on the seafoam. Never knew i had an exhaust leak where my turbo meets my exhaust mani and sure as hell when i did a seafoam run through it last saturday i was HUFFING smoke out of there!
 
im use the AEM WB.

Maybe ill go to the firework store and buy some smoke bombs, throw them in the exhaust and duct tape over the end. ROFL

Haha! Hilarious.

I also used the smoke machine mentioned above to check for exhaust leaks. From the description that I was given, it burns oil to create the smoke and is both easy to see and smell. It was a $1000 piece of equipment LOL:|

Question: In your log, how was timing looking like at WOT? Specifically, how low was it being pulled?
 
On 1 run only, I got 5 counts of knock for just a split second at 6218 RPM's, that brought the timing down to 17*. Normally in the rest of the log, with no knock, timing stayed between 18* and 21*
 
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