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TSiturbo001

20+ Year Contributor
135
18
Nov 16, 2002
OK im saving up the dough so i can get all this shit in the summer time, and this is what ive come up with so far. I would like some opinions and if anyone thinks i should change anything or i missed somthing speak up! I got rid of the talon i had in my profile, and i miss her so much i cant wait to build another one. Im hoping to get a low low 11/ high 10 sec car outta this setup. Car is a 1993 AWD auto tsi

Engine:
Eagle/Wiseco 8.3:1
mitsu metal HG-----opinions on cometic?
clevite rod bearings
SI dual springs
Manly TI retainers
FPCAM2's
new knock sensor, O2 sensor
new lifters
new valves----should i go with an upgrade here? ss swirl polish, stock size or 1mm over
new oem main bearings
stock caps

Tranny - swap to manual
ACT 2900----- or will 2600 suffice?
ss clutch line

Gofast stuff
GT35R
1G DSMLINK
EPROM ecu
MAF-translator- 3.5"
750cc+ injectors
Aeromotive fuel pump
Aeromotive fuel filter
Aeromotive afpr
SBR Ported Cast Manifold
O2 elim 3" DP
Dejon tool FMIC kit
tial 44mm wg off #1
hks ssqv
LOTS of dyno time and troubleshooting im sure.

stuff leftover from last car i can use: suspension, arp head studs, mint JDM tranny, 4 bolt, xfer case, turboback 3", 3" intake w/ 9"K&N cone, shortshifter.

Ill be doing all except assembly of the shortblock and head everything else ill be tackling. Hopefully i can stay below 8-9K and still get a f*ckin sick car out of it.
 
TSiturbo001 said:
stuff leftover from last car i can use: arp head studs
You can't reuse head studs. They are torque to yield bolts, which means they are stretched when you first use them (that's why you turn them an extra 1/4 turn after torquing them down). Unless you haven't used them yet, don't use them.
 
Make sure you swap out the rear and put you're 4 bolt in during the manual swap over. the stock auto will burn up with a manual trans. Also go with the SBR manifold for exhaust. Its a clone of the evo III manifold, uses bigger runners that the evo, better casting material and a thicker flange, and they can port it for you. They can also add bungs for EGT or external wastegate applications. The comparsion between the evo III and the SBR can be found on the slowboy site. The manifolds look identical from the outside.
You should also port the stock intake manifold, or maybe consider a sheet metal if your really looking for 10s. Do you plan on building a 6 bolt or the stock 7 bolt? You should consider the 6 bolt because some don't have good luck building the 7 bolts becuase of there main bearing problems. Last thing you want is to loose a bearing on a fully built bottom end. Go with the Cometic headgasket, it is good for high boost applications and from what I've read the 3layer mitsu sometimes pushes coolant under lots of boost.
 
IHeartTurbo said:
You can't reuse head studs. They are torque to yield bolts, which means they are stretched when you first use them (that's why you turn them an extra 1/4 turn after torquing them down). Unless you haven't used them yet, don't use them.
Yes you can reuse ARP head studs, The stock 2g head bolts you can't reuse. Stock 1g head bolts you can reuse.
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122744&highlight=reuse+arp
 
CyberEye- why not stroke it since your rebuilding the bottom end?
i have contemplated this and still am not 100% on a 2.0L. I am going to drive this car on the street alot, and i dont want to have to worry about a 2.3 failing because of the terrible rod ratios. I also want to be able to rev real high (9k-10k) to pull the most out of whatever turbo i choose.

killab443- Make sure you swap out the rear and put you're 4 bolt in during the manual swap over. the stock auto will burn up with a manual trans. Also go with the SBR manifold for exhaust. Its a clone of the evo III manifold, uses bigger runners that the evo, better casting material and a thicker flange, and they can port it for you. They can also add bungs for EGT or external wastegate applications. The comparsion between the evo III and the SBR can be found on the slowboy site. The manifolds look identical from the outside.
You should also port the stock intake manifold, or maybe consider a sheet metal if your really looking for 10s. Do you plan on building a 6 bolt or the stock 7 bolt? You should consider the 6 bolt because some don't have good luck building the 7 bolts becuase of there main bearing problems. Last thing you want is to loose a bearing on a fully built bottom end. Go with the Cometic headgasket, it is good for high boost applications and from what I've read the 3layer mitsu sometimes pushes coolant under lots of boost.

Yup, thanks, im on top of the rear end issue. I am also considering the dejon tool intake mani, mainly because the price is good, but i dont believe that is a big issue yet, we'll see. I AM building my 6 bolt from my last talon, i forgot to list that. And THANK YOU for mentioning that manifold, i knew i had seen it somewhere but i couldnt remember for the life of me. Well i had the mitsu metal, which is actually a 4layer i believe, and ran 28psi on that bi*** never blew coolant. But thanks for the input on cometic, i may still go that route.

killab443- Yes you can reuse ARP head studs, The stock 2g head bolts you can't reuse. Stock 1g head bolts you can reuse.
OK. well you just saved me $100. thanks, ill check out that thread. i was almost positive they couldnt be reused. i know i heard that elsewhere, well hopefully you are right.

redturbo66- Mine are used and I've had no problems with them. Arps are the shiznit!
well i guess that settles it, thanks man.

anybody else have suggestions on a turbo (under $1200)? suggestions on valves? 2900 or will 2600 do? will be driving on the street quite a bit.
 
TSiturbo001 said:
CyberEye- why not stroke it since your rebuilding the bottom end?
i have contemplated this and still am not 100% on a 2.0L. I am going to drive this car on the street alot, and i dont want to have to worry about a 2.3 failing because of the terrible rod ratios. I also want to be able to rev real high (9k-10k) to pull the most out of whatever turbo i choose.

With a 2.3, you're going to be getting the most out of your turbo, no matter what because of a higher compression ratio, I'd even think that with a 2.3, you wouldn't even need to run your motor in the 9-10K range to get the most out of it.

Maybe a few of the 2.3 folks can speak on this, but I haven't heard a lot of stories about a 2.3 stroker failing because because extreme rod/crank ratios broke something. I think it would be good a daily driver because you won't need to rev the snot out of it to get any power.
 
I think it would be good a daily driver because you won't need to rev the snot out of it to get any power.
This is another factor ive looked at and your definatly right. I dont know, i go one way then the other. The shop i go to also told me not to go with a 2.3 cause theyre not a good option for the amount of power i want to be making. I dont really know why they said this but im guessing it has to do with the rod ratios again. I dunno! thanks for the input though
 
anybody else have suggestions on a turbo (under $1200)? I am uncertain weather or not i am going to upgrade valves or do a sheet metal intake...if i do choose to do one, which would it be and why? 2900 or will a 2600 do fine (550-600whp)? I will be driving this car on the street quite a bit. Thanks alot guys
 
Well that just made my turbo desicion a whole lot easier. I just read SBR's thread about their recent dyno pulls with their gt35r....i WILL be bolting on one of those turbos to my car.
Now that that's outta the way, how bout the other shit guys?
 
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