Please help with 2G GST

[adam170880]

I have a problem and would like to help me please!!!!

My car is a 1995 Eclipse GST automatic.

The car does not have any change, only a 6-inch air conical filter. It has 100,000 km of travel.

The problem has recently presented, the symptoms are as follows and are sometimes yes, sometimes no, not necessarily all together:

1 .- When the car is cold the car accelerates very well and the changes come quickly, giving impression of strength and power.

2 .- when the car already warmed to normal temperature changes often good but sometimes slow to come and more to accelerate the tachometer is maintained at 2500 rpm

3 .- Another symptom is that when you go between third and fourth accelerating speed at times may feel small jumps. It feels as if the car was running out of gas and vibrates forward and backward. However the car takes half a tank of gasoline forever.

4 .- The electrical system regularly goes, no problems at present but are usually present, as the alarm is activated only when activated by closing the car. Always does once.

5 .- I scan the gearbox and found no problem.

6 .- shows the scanner P0443 - Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit

7 .- gasoline consumption has increased.

8.- more than once when trying to accelerate to pass a car on revolutions have gone to ground, giving impression that the car would die

I need to please guide me where I can start looking for the problem.

Thank you very much

 

[the_mork]

You may have problems with air leaks that need to be fixed. To find them you will need to build a tool called a boost leak tester. You can find instructions on it here,

IC Pipe Tester

P0443 is an issue with having a closed fuel system. Usually the problem is that your gas cap has gone bad and should be replaced, otherwise you could have a bad fuel vent hose. The important thing to know here is that it does not cause any problems with driving, it only makes your check engine light come on.

Unfortunately I'm having a little bit of trouble with understanding some of your other problems but probably most of them will be solved by checking for boost leaks.

 

[adam170880]

Thank you very much for answering my queries

sorry, my English is very bad.

Basically the main problem is the possible lack of power that manifests itself by speeding up and the car is not responding as it should. It feels sometimes as small cuts petrol, as if the order were to be shut down. Courts are very mild and very straight, 1 second between each cut and cut small.

I also suspect a leak pressure. What kind of problems can cause these losses?
how it feels in the car?

 

[the_mork]

A big enough leak will cause most of the problems you are describing. You should also check your spark plugs.

 

[adam170880]

I changed my spark plugs 3 weeks ago, I thought that was the cause of the problem but continued the same, although it improved slightly

 

[IEdroStarI]

when was the last time you did a complete tune up to the car? have you changed your fuel filter at all? pcv valve? check your fuel pump as well... if not maybe your gas gauge may not be working properly if it takes forever to get down on half a tank

 

[adam170880]

I will change the fuel filter and I will check the fuel pump. Also look for boost leak and I will review the turbo. spark plugs are new.

something else?




Another fact:

Always the same thing happens with the engine cold, it works very well. do not feel any of the symptoms I described above, the changes come fast and feel the punch of the turbo. As the engine is warming up the car gets slower, delayed entering the changes and do not feel the punch of the turbo.

have something to do with a boost leak?

 

[turbotemper]

First change the cheap stuff like the PCV & fuel filter, spark plugs gapped to .032. Make sure you only run 91 octane. You could try running a bottle of fuel injector cleaner, or i would use Berryman's B-12 Chemtool for gas tanks, fuel injectors, carburetors, & crankcases. It cleans moisture & other deposits that may be in the fuel system. There are a few different products they make so make sure you get the right one.

Sounds like a leak or possibly the timing getting retarded for whatever reason. If it was a big leak you wouldnt be able to accelerate it would feel majorly robbed of power & stutter. Check all your hose clamps along the intercooler piping starting at the turbo follow it to the side mount intercooler, then up to BOV and up to the throttle body. If all is tight then you might want to look at your intercooler to see if it has bends or breaks anywhere. This could be leaking. Make yourself the boost leak tester for under $20. The thread is here just search. This way you can narrow it down to where the leak is happening. I have a leak at the IC but not big enough to cause the car to fall on it face. It boosts 12-14psi on the stock BCS.
I am kinda having a similar issue that comes and goes once the car is warmed up. It seems to happen more often when its warm/hotter outside, not when its cool.
I want to data log it to see if im getting knock. Anyone in the valley want to help me out? I have no DL cable, but i do have a laptop & old palm100 PDA to work on.

 

[the_mork]

I think a boost leak test will show you everything that you need to know.

If I had to select one thing that was causing your problem I would bet that you still have a stock blow off valve and it is beginning to leak when you hit full boost especially after it warms up. Do you vent your bov to the atmosphere?

 

[adam170880]

Hi,

You're right, my BOV is STOCK. (a plastic BOV)

Could you please explain to me, What is the relation between the boost leak and the temperature of the car?

Thank you very much

This Saturday, I am going to make a boost leak test

please forgive me the stupid questions but this problem has me crazy

 

[the_mork]

This is just a theory

It actually has nothing to do with the temperature of the car. The boost leak test will probably show that the bov is leaking at a level that is just above your full boost pressure and as the car warms up the spring inside the bov is relaxing and allowing air to head right back out of your charge piping. The reason that the car stays running is because your MAF registers the huge slowdown in airflow because it is recirculated after MAF so the turbo is sucking its own air.

The boost leak test will show the issue though. Make sure you have a boost gauge in order to make sure that you are not overly pressurizing the system. I would suggest testing to at least 15psi but no more than 20psi because the tester can pop off at high pressure, it isn't dangerous just scary when it pops.

 

[rush2252]

Your on the right path. The plastic 2g BOV are the cause of alot of headaches. Mine just went poop a few weeks ago. Normally they begin leaking boost around 12psi ( I think ive read ) mine started leaking at like 9psi my car ran like shit. I put my buddies metal 1g on and problem solved. Also do not remove the recirculation tube. You can start the car with the recirculation tube off and idle it up and actally watch the BOV and feel it leakin before you ever reach peak boost. You dont notice this when the car is stock because of the recirculation hose being hooked up it recirculates back to the MAF and is accounted for by the ECU

 

[SeaveeDSM]

If you have not yet changed the spark plug CABLES, you should.

 

[shredwin]

Hi,

You're right, my BOV is STOCK. (a plastic BOV)

Thank you very much

This Saturday, I am going to make a boost leak test

please forgive me the stupid questions but this problem has me crazy

Plastic BOV are known to leak but that can be fixed if you get a different one. Also Hard pipes would be great too. Most likely you got a boost leak, but just do the test to find out.
Buena suerte

 

[adam170880]

Your on the right path. The plastic 2g BOV are the cause of alot of headaches. Mine just went poop a few weeks ago. Normally they begin leaking boost around 12psi ( I think ive read ) mine started leaking at like 9psi my car ran like shit. I put my buddies metal 1g on and problem solved. Also do not remove the recirculation tube. You can start the car with the recirculation tube off and idle it up and actally watch the BOV and feel it leakin before you ever reach peak boost. You dont notice this when the car is stock because of the recirculation hose being hooked up it recirculates back to the MAF and is accounted for by the ECU

Excellent information, thank you very much. just bought one and BOV are bringing me from the USA

 

[adam170880]

If you have not yet changed the spark plug CABLES, you should.

Yes, I have new cables

 

[adam170880]

Plastic BOV are known to leak but that can be fixed if you get a different one. Also Hard pipes would be great too. Most likely you got a boost leak, but just do the test to find out.
Buena suerte

I will find a boost leak at the weekend.
Thank you very much

 

[adam170880]

These problems were stronger since I bought the air filter K & N 6''

 

[shredwin]

is your BOV recirculated or vented? If you still have the stock MAF you wanna recirculate it cause it will run shitty

 

[the_mork]

My guess is that the car is falling on its face because of a backup and eddy from the air in the recirc tube messing with the MAF. That same thing happened when my Forge bov stuck open on me so that is why I suggested his bov popping open.

 

[cwdrake09]

im pretty sure that it is a boost leak. what kind of IC piping do you have?
also its pretty much common sense but idk if you know it or not.. (im not trying to sound like a smart a** or anything) but when temperature increases things expand so that is why you could have a bigger leak when its hot and the car is up to temp...
hope this helps

 

[adam170880]

is your BOV recirculated or vented? If you still have the stock MAF you wanna recirculate it cause it will run shitty

The car is stock. The BOV recirculated.

 

[turbotemper]

Did you check all the clamps to make sure its all tight? One loose hose will cause the leak you describe. It could be that simple. Do it & report back.

 

[adam170880]

Did you check all the clamps to make sure its all tight? One loose hose will cause the leak you describe. It could be that simple. Do it & report back.

I will review all the clamps.
I will record a video trying to capture the sound of the car. When I accelerated the car and the turbo charge is a sound of metal against metal.
Thanks