Spyder Please help!! rebuild wont idle

[Synzmayhem]

I got a 98 gst spyder and after a few weeks had to replace the entire suspension then weeks later the head gasket went and decided to just do a full rebuild. ive had nothing but trouble but love the car too much to give up on it.

It was rebuilt by someone who knew mainly american made cars so he had trouble on a few things. the problem is the car will not idle i have to give it gas to keep it started. the only way it will idle is if i unhook the maf sensor so i replaced it thinking that was the problem but no change at all. the car runs and sounds great when i rev it and ive even drove it around the block. the wiring is a mess and i worry that its something to do with that. please help with any ideas im stumped and not extremely knowledgeable myself.

I had some guy look at it and he told me it has crank walk but he also wanted me to give him the car for 200 bucks. it also ran perfect before the head gasket went and it doesnt seem to have any other symptoms of crank walk.

i have 1500 invested at this point just in the motor and trying to get it back on the road again i need to figure this out. thanks

 

[Twinturbo120]

Do a boost leak test, most likely be your problem. By the way, make sure to use the search up top.

 

[rlacasse1]

I'd start by trying to track down any possible vacuum leaks. And then start looking at your timing. But that's just me, since it apparently ran fine before the head gasket I would think those would be one of the culprits.

As for crankwalk, I think that guy was probably just trying to fvck you out of a car. And someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but wouldn't the 98 have the newer thrust bearing that didn't even have crankwalk issues?

 

[95talongirl]

I had some guy look at it and he told me it has crank walk but he also wanted me to give him the car for 200 bucks. it also ran perfect before the head gasket went and it doesnt seem to have any other symptoms of crank walk.

Someone wants your car for cheap, and is feeding you a line of crap.

Idle on these cars is controlled by the BISS, a screw that's on the TB, and the IAC (Idle air control motor). To "set" you you need to ground out the coolant temp sensor (this was it keeps the car a "diagnostic" mode) and adjusting the screw until you reach a desired idle RPM. This RPM can vary depending on what's done to the car. If you have a lightened flywheel, you'll find that you will probably need to bump the idle to 900-1000RPM to keep it from stalling inbetween shifts. That's due to the lighter rotational mass.

you may also have a faulty IAC motor, or maybe even a faulty TPS. Does the car throw any codes? Also check for boost leaks, vacuum leaks and the like.

 

[Twinturbo120]

I'd start by trying to track down any possible vacuum leaks. And then start looking at your timing. But that's just me, since it apparently ran fine before the head gasket I would think those would be one of the culprits.

As for crankwalk, I think that guy was probably just trying to fvck you out of a car. And someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but wouldn't the 98 have the newer thrust bearing that didn't even have crankwalk issues?

It started with the 97 but yeah. What the hell does crankwalk have to do with idle You can always do a IAC check test with the muiltimeter, I would give you a link but I'm on my vita -.-

 

[rlacasse1]

^^^ Yeah, I was unsure what year it started, not really a 2g guy.

 

[Synzmayhem]

Ok so it came up a code for the emissions evaporate purge control valve would this possibly cause it to idle rough and stall. ive checked and cleaned iac, cam sensor, and for bad vacuum lines.

 

[Blindsey]

That won't cause your idle issue. Have you pressure tested the system? I would almost bet there is a knar knar boost leak.