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Pic request of xspower/ssautochrome fmic w/T28 installed

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Yea, going under the crossmember is a bit fishy but its still not as low as when I had a supra smic.

Im still trippin on why my car now sounds like a race car with an external gate?????
 
T is for TURBO said:
No, it's not wise, however, it was a temporary soloution.
I was going to go over the crossmember, but it seemed as if it put too much of a kink in my rubber LICP and I was afraid it would pop off at full boost. However, It seems that you are having pretty good luck with it that way.

Now, the real question is; who loves it at 20psi the MOST? you or your car?? :thumb: :dsm:


im still street tuned so the car is still rich at the moment, and besides the BigT-28 was meant to be at 20-24 psi. thats still WAY in the efficiency range and with the size of the turbo its only 300 hp on my limited setup. nowhere near breaking internals and cold enuff that im not burning the valves.


there is a kink but its a welded 2" pipe that looks, dare i say, like a birds beak. its too tight of a bend to have a nice solid mandrel bend. but hey 4" off the outlet, i dont think thats a problem.
 
siceclipse said:
there is a kink but its a welded 2" pipe that looks, dare i say, like a birds beak. its too tight of a bend to have a nice solid mandrel bend. but hey 4" off the outlet, i dont think thats a problem.

Im not shure exactly what your talking about:confused: Got some pics?
 
sorry no my g/f has the camera and shes in VT with her family right now.
ill see if i can go up there and get it this weekend.

but its a 180* pipe that was cut and welded and looks like this : <____
rather than this: (_____
 
Ok, I know what your talking about. Ive seen that, I think I would rather have it run under the crossmember than the air hitting a wall and making a u turn. ......But I dont have my car sitting too low either so I dont think it will be a big problem. Im probably gonna sell the T28 and go a lil bigger anyway.
 
So how are people tightning the lower, right (if facing the t.b.) throttle body bolt? The damn elbow turns so sharp and is larger in diameter so I cant get a single tool on that bolt to tighten it all the way. I even tried tightning that one first and rotating the elbow down into position to do the other 3 and its still not tight enough??

Hell, I had to cut a big slot out of the elbow flange just to get the bolt through it. Heres a pic of what Im talking about.....
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skinnykenny84 said:
So how are people tightning the lower, right (if facing the t.b.) throttle body bolt? The damn elbow turns so sharp and is larger in diameter so I cant get a single tool on that bolt to tighten it all the way. I even tried tightning that one first and rotating the elbow down into position to do the other 3 and its still not tight enough??

Hell, I had to cut a big slot out of the elbow flange just to get the bolt through it. Heres a pic of what Im talking about.....
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im the 1g guy that put the 2g kit on my car. the way i made that annoying throttle body elbow fit is by cutting it the way you did. then i would take the bolt that is hard to get to fit which is the one on the bottom right corner, and thread it in so that the head of the bolt extends past the 2 studs on the left side. then take the elbow and slide the slit you cut onto the bolt and then the studs on the left side. once you do this, you basically keep tightening the bolt with an open ended wrench. hope this helps, tried to make it clear but i can see were it might sound confusing.
if you need more info just ask.
later
 

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I believe this was covered by many, including myself in the big bible thread, i hate to sound redundant, but since im in a good mood here we go..

I believe that part does not have a bolt go into it, instead there is already a stud in place on the tb and you just use a nut. That is what I believe is the stock configuration. What you have done there and putting a new bolt, is not how it should be, and dont believe have a way to tigten it up.

If you figure out your configuration, and do it how it was stock, you can easily hand tight the nut on to that bolt no problem, then i used the appropriate sized combo wrench to tighten it up. Slow, but I believe is the only way. No problem whatsoever.

Good luck, reference the big thread for more info.

edit, I just took a look at the pic of my engine bay to verify..

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As you can see it is just a nut that tightens up.
 
My car came with 4 bolts, not studs w/nuts. I dont know what your talking about as far as that goes. And pardon me for not wanting to read (again) through a million pages of random fmic kits in that thread your talking about.

And thanks for the engine bay photo, looks real good except I can hardly see the throttle body bolts that you were refering to.
 
Hereee yah go

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It's been so long ago, I don't even remember that they came with new bolts/if any. All I know is I, and most 2g owners, did not use those new bolts to install that TB pipe. We just used the stock configuration. We didn't use those new bolts, we just installed it like stock. Meaning 2 bolts, and 2 studs with locking nut. How stock is. And the part that you are having problems with is the one that is a stud. The pipe wll slip right on, put in the 2 bolts that are no problem, and tighten the nuts for the studs. And your done. No need to use the new bolts they give you.

The picture just shows what im talking about. You can clearly see it. Look at the 4 bolts/nuts where the TB pipe is connected to the TB. The ones towards the rear (though you cant see the bottom rear) are bolts and you can see, and the ones towards the front are the studs that have been there already all this time and you just use a nut to tighten the tb pipe against it, and you can clearly see it.

EDIT again, I just re-read your reply and you said YOUR CAR came with 4 bolts, in which case this is not how stock config is, so if this is the case, I don't know the best way because I have no experience with that situation.
 
So your saying instead of 4 bolts holding the t.b. elbow to the t.b. and the t.b. to the intake, you have 4 studs? I just went out and looked at my friends STOCk 95gst and he has the same configuration I do????
 
Either way, bolts or studs, you have nuts that have to be tightend, just like my bolts, and I cant get a damn wrench or socket or nothing on that lower right one.
 
2 are bolts that have to be inserted in the tb holes, the other 2 are studs already there and use a nut to tighten. This was the same config with my 2 of my bone stock 98 gs-ts and my 95 gsx. I thought this was the norm.

Yes either way they have to be tigtened, but have all 4 points being bolts to be inserted, there is no way the tb pipe from xs, or any similar pipe will bolt on easy unless you hack up the flange, but the way I stated which I thought was normal is no problem, because it seems as if they designed it for that purpose, with the stud in mine. In which case as I stated there is no problem tightening it up, just hand tight the nut in to place as much as you can, then use a combo wrench to slowly, but effectively, and only the only way to tigten it up.

Good luck, do you have a pic of your TB area? I would like to see how yours looks.
 
I did some searches in the gallery, here is a closer pic to describe what I'm talking about.

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see the front 2 are studs and just uses a nut. And the back are bolts you actually insert and tight.

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Yes, two bolts and two studs is the stock configuration. All bolts means that the car most likely had an aftermarket UICP on it, such as the Dejon where your studs are replaced by bolts.
 
Thats exactly what it had on it when I got it! Whats really crazy is my friends gst is got the same 4 bolts and his is all stock:confused: I guess it had an uicp on it before he got it.

Well I actually found a set of oem studs/bolts and swapped it over and Im still having a problem getting that bolt tight. Heres a pic.......
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So redturbo, you have the same fmic kit with the same piping and you did not have a problem tightning that bolt?

I have tried every relevent tool I have. From gear wrenches to line wrenches and everything in between. I can get a small craftsmen 12mm regular style wrench on it and get about 1 more turn on it but I have to back it up 1 turn to take the wrench off!
 
Im gonna post this pic on the big ebay fmic thread and see what I get too...
 
Yes I have the very same kit. I just painted all my piping black and modified the bov flange.

I replied in the big thread, lets see if anybody else has suggestions, but thats the only applicable way I see to tighten it. When you say regular style wrench, thats the one with just the open end? Try with the closed end with the many points.
 
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