overheating and not to sure why?

[6boltpwr]

both my hoses are the same temp after a run.

hey talon, i had to make a custom heat sheild that went over the motor solenoid of the punishment fan. my turbo was melting the wires like yours. after i did the heat shield and tape, i am good for the fan at least staying intact. just make sure you have good clearance from your heatshield so it doesnt heat the motor up on the fan. also dont make the shield to big to where it blocks air.

the guy i was counting on for my stock radiator to throw in and test didnt come through so i will update you guys with that hopefully next wknd.

 

[6boltpwr]

just ordered a new thermostat that is rated for 180 and radiator cap. see if these simple things will help out. going up tomorrow to work on it. i will keep post my results.

 

[El Cuervo]

Keep us updated. I'm also having some overheating issues. Mine is during boost at any given speed. I don't overheat on trafic, stop lights or just cruising at any speeds. Only when I floor it and boost kicks in. I burped the system good. This seemed to help a bit but still. My temps when all the way to 3/4. On my logger, temps read 230*F. I have 2 spal fans and koyo radiator. Also added 2 bottles of water wetter. I'll try flushing the system very good, Replace the radiator cap, fabricate a heat shield for the ex manifold and turbo, buy a 160 thermostat. If I do this. I'm sure that it will help. "it better".
I don't think that my fans are to be at fault. Though I'm running spal 12s. I don't overheat at Idle or just regular driving non boost.

 

[6boltpwr]

quervo- does it cool back down to a normal temp after you are off boost? or do temps stay elevated after they reach 230?

 

[El Cuervo]

quervo- does it cool back down to a normal temp after you are off boost? or do temps stay elevated after they reach 230?

It cools back down after a while. This is only on boost when it overheats. As long as I stay in vacume, them I don't overheat. It a bit over a mile of driving after I get off boost for the car to go back to normal temps or if I come to a stop it will start to slowly come down.
Oh. I forgot to tell you. The only way that I won't overheat while boosting is if I turn on the heater at full blast. So thats the only way that I can boost without overheating.

 

[6boltpwr]

update for my car- replaced the thermostat with a 180 with no change in the car, still overheats. i just bought some FAL shrouded fans which will hopefully be here by sat for me to put them in. think my fans are the culprit as for everything else in the system seems to work fine.

quervo- that is a very odd symptom. there was a forum on here where a kid had overheating and couldnt figure it out. turned out that his heater core was shot and was acting as a block in his system. might want to check that out?

 

[LandoAWD]

A thermostat will not keep you from overheating. Just FYI.

 

[El Cuervo]

update for my car- replaced the thermostat with a 180 with no change in the car, still overheats. i just bought some FAL shrouded fans which will hopefully be here by sat for me to put them in. think my fans are the culprit as for everything else in the system seems to work fine.

quervo- that is a very odd symptom. there was a forum on here where a kid had overheating and couldnt figure it out. turned out that his heater core was shot and was acting as a block in his system. might want to check that out?

I think that I have a blowned headgasket. I found a black oily like substance in the coolant and coolant overflow bottle.

 

[6boltpwr]

i am well aware that a thermo will not solve the issue. the only thing it would allow is for it to go into open loop faster.

anyway to let you guys know i am pretty sure i found my culprit and fixed it. i bought the FAL shrouded fans and put them in my car. i wasnt able to secure the fans to take a test drive. i did start the car up with them in place and they are amazing!!!!!!! sounds like a helicopter. anyway my temps normally at idle from EMS where 195. now they are 182 and i can rev the car and they drop drastically to 174ish. i will be up there again next weekend to secure the fans in place and actually do a test drive. so far all seems well.

just a note.......not to bash punishment racing, i love the alum radiator but the fans you sell with your kit are garbage. i would highly recommend changing your package deal for the fans to ones that flow more then the "claimed 900".

hope this helps you guys with issues similar to mine. cant go wrong with the FAL shrouded fan setup.

 

[turboglenn]

check my new article in the tech section on overheating.... a perfectly good water pump that's aftetrmarket or reman'ed can cause a loss of flow and i outline how to test....this turned out to be my issue after a year of battling overheating issues

 

[6boltpwr]

i just read the whole tech post you did on the water pump. very very good info which we (overheating guys) should look into. i can tell you for sure that if these fans dont fix my issue which, i think they did. i will def be following your method to test my pump.

Thanks glenn,

 

[turboglenn]

6bolt... thanks! I put a lot of time into trouble shooting my overheating issue and 2 years ago i solved it by going back to OEM fans on the OEM radiator and then this year the problem started over and after going through a hundred nad one things and improving cooling along the way with every step i still get too hot with the AC on under a load.


Then when i thought about the old chevy overheating issues (even newer ones suffer the same issue if the pump is a reman and it's not "right") but anyway, i thought hell, that's my issue cause i know the coolant isn't cuirculating under idle very well cause the heat goes away at redlights ewven with a full system"

then i was mentally going over what i've done since i originally fixed the cooling issue i remembered that i had done a T-belt and water pump a while back and that's when i compared the old worn out OEM in my scrap pile to a remaned one on my spare block and realized we are getting water pumps that don't meet the OEM requirements for coolant movement because of their design and lack of attention in the tolerances and impeller shape and such.


i woulde recomend checking into it for sure, because i've seen way too many people with 2g's having massive cooling issues lately and the waterpump findings could really solve a lot of peoples issues (i hope) because 90% of people just buy reman or aftermarket parts store pumps when they repolace them which could explain why the issue is so widespread

update us please!

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

Well I purchased a brand new OEM water pump when I put my new 6 bolt motor together a couple thousand miles ago. I originally picked up an aftermarket one, but decided I would just get the OEM one.

I built two heat shields for my car in hopes that it would help. One goes around the exhaust manifold (FP) and covers the o2 housing and wastegate. The other basically goes where the A/C fan was. I was hoping that it would be more effective than the fan there, but apparently with just one fan and the heat shields, it ran even hotter. So my theory is the one slim fan I have (from the Punishment kit) isn't flowing enough air. I can't fit an OEM fan on there anymore, so I'm going to look for a really high flowing slim fan and try again.

 

[6boltpwr]

i will be driving my car this weekend when i get back up to MD where it is. i will post the results of what my newly obtained FAL fans dish out. If these fans dont work and solve my issues then i will be doing what Glenn's article suggest for testing water pump. however i turned on the heat in my car to help burp the system last weekend. the fans were in my car and had good heat output and coolant temps at 182. with this i am hopefully putting together from your article Glenn that my waterpump is still doing its job. it better be since it is on the newer side and is OEM.

turbotalon- i highly recommended either getting a spal fan or the FAL dual shrouded setup. it is almost four hundread but i couldnt believe the air if moved. the FAL fans dropped my normal idle temps by 12 degrees!. if you go with one SPAL fan get it shrouded with some sheet metal at a local shop. Shrouding helps out immensely with the direction of how the air is pulled through the radiator. i had so many problems with the punishment racing crappy fans that are in the kit. I melted one so bad it warped the fan to where it couldnt turn because it couldnt keep the hot air away! trust me, ditch those fans and you will see the difference between cheap and quality parts.

 

[turboglenn]

if you can, i HIGHLY recomend STOCK fans, as they have 3 speeds (most people think htere's only 2) and the move more air than any slim line i've tried.

When i first put the t3/t4 on the car i just slapped slim lines on to make the routing easier and thought they'ed work good, but after buying more than a few different brands of slim-lines (spal, fal black magic ) and i couldn't run the AC with any of them. 2 years ago i put the stock fans back in and all my cooling issues went away.

Now that they are back the only thing ive got left to change is the poorly flowing pump and flush the radiator

When was the ast tiem you flushed the system??? the stuff that builds up in there can really kill the heat transferring ability of the coolant to metal contact.\

Also, check the fins in both the condensor and radiator, make sure they aren't all bent up or full of bugs.

well, that's all i can add for now, let us know how she comes al0ong

Glenn

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

Thanks for the advice guys. The punishment racing site doesn't specify any CFM numbers on the fans they come with, but I doubt they are pushing more than 600-700CFM per fan. I took a quick look on SummitRacing.com for some FAL fans, and some of them flow like 1200-1800CFM PER FAN! So I will do some measuring and figure out which FAL fans will fit on the current setup (with a fan shroud) and throw some Water Wetter in the system and see what happens. I have to act fast before the hot weather leaves us here in NJ.

 

[6boltpwr]

If you still have the stock fans i would definitley put them back on! Glenn is right, stockers are almost impossible to beat cfm wise. if i had the clearance i would put them back in in a heartbeat. my radiator, turbo, and dump setup wont allow me to run the stockers so the FAL kit i scooped up for cheap is my next best option.

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

Yea, my setup wont' allow me to run the stock fans either. That's why I had to get slim fans

 

[turboglenn]

what turbo are you running? All i had to do was weld a 90* elbow on the end of my turbo ( but i cou the outlet off right where it meets the "snail shell") then clocked it all the way up, the most that i could anyywan and it clears the stock fans pefectly. I'll try and get a cell phone pic (all my shit is packed up in storage for now, cameras too! )

 

[6boltpwr]

i have a AGP 50 trim. i want to get a new manifold because the turbonetics one i have sucks. it isnt made very well as far as turbo placement. When you put the turbo on the housing would hit the balance shaft location so bad it wont bolt up. Found out after we bought it that this is a known issue from turbonetics. so i had to add a 3/4 inch spacer between my block and manifold. really sucks ### it bumps everything out so far.

 

[turboglenn]

weird, I have the old cast turbonetics manifold and my 57 trim clears the block and water pipe just fine and with a 90* elbow welded on it i even have room for the stock fans.

 

[6boltpwr]

that is really odd? i looked at your profile but you dont have any pics of your engine bay. any chance you could snap a couple for me if you have a free second. i could put the stock fan from the driver side in on the passenger side but thats about it. other fan (rad fan) would hit my turbo housing and intake pipe for the turbo.

 

[turboglenn]

im in the middle of moiving and only have a bed, TV, PC< couch and a table here at the house, the rest is packed up (the camera too) n but i can get a pic with my phone, there's pics of my bay online but i think they're in my photobucket account ill get soething up topday for you

 

[6boltpwr]

new update for everyone. my cars smoked pretty good last time i drove it. so before i tested out the radiator fans this weekend i removed the turbo to see if the turbo was causing the smoking or my motor........the turbo. i will be down for a month porbably before i post again on whether the fans fixed my problem.

 

[6boltpwr]

FINALLY...... for all of you that have posted in this thread thanks for the advice and info.

My car no longer overheats thanks to the FAL dual shrouded fans that i threw in there. They are absolute monster's in moving some air. I beat on the car pretty good over the weekend and i never saw over 200 F. the highest temp i saw was like 196. Hope this helps some of the guys that said they had similar problems.