Over revved (car wont start) HELP!

[got_jesus?]

I was wondering if I can get your help on this. I was checking my boost level to see were it was at after I turned it down and when I was looking at the boost gauge I forgot to check my RPM's and hit the rev limiter. AHHHHHH! I think it hit 8000rpm or more.


I did not hit fuel cut because I did not feel anything when it shut off it just coasted. (No brick wall feeling) When the car shut off the rpm meter went crazy then died.

Now the car won't start. There is no smoke or grinding sound coming from the motor or exhaust. When I try to crank it on it makes the normal sound that DSM make when you turn on the car, the only thing is it just never turns on. It just repeats the first usual starting sound.

Here is what I have checked so far.

- Spark
The car has spark. There is no oil in the spark plugs.

- Fuel
I took the fuel line of the fuel rail to see if I am getting fuel and it is getting fuel.

- Timing
I lined up the grove that looks like a v on the crank shaft and the cam gears lined up perfect. So the belt did not skip! Thank God!

- Fuses
The only fuses I know of is the one under the dash and in the engine bay. As far as I can tell no fuses were blown.

- Oil leak
There is no unusual oil leaking.

- Vacuum hoses
I checked and all seems to be fine.

- ECU
I unplugged the negative for about 10 minutes to reset the ECU still not turning on.

My friend said the ECU might be fried or missed up. I can't see how over revving will do that but it is worth a try.

Any advice or help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!


Thanks!
<><
Daniel

 

[TurkF26]

check your fuses again. to get the car to start all you need is spark, fuel and air. if yo have all those it should start. check fuses under the hood and under the dash and take out the ecu. if it smells real bad then it might be toasted.

 

[ECLIPSE4x4]

I agree, IF you have sprak it should atleast turn over.

Check the plug to the igniter.

 

[Defiant]

Considering how and when it failed, do a compression test. I suspect jumped timing and valve damage, regardless of how the timing marks are looking.

 

[got_jesus?]

Considering how and when it failed, do a compression test. I suspect jumped timing and valve damage, regardless of how the timing marks are looking.

Yeah...I am going to do that tomorrow.

 

[bones_420_99]

could be wrong on this (which wouldn't be the first time) but i thought to reset the ecu you would undo the positive cable. if that is the right one then try that and if not that doesn't work then definetly do the compression check cause sounds more like timing issue.

 

[karbon]

i thought to reset the ecu you would undo the positive cable

It works, but electrical etiquette states that you should always remove the negative cable, especially when working on or around the car's electronics. When you have to remove both battery connections, you always remove the negative first.

 

[tstkl]

check to see if the ecu smells, when you open it, you should smell it immediately, thats what happened to me, of corse for me it was just a cap, i wasnt reving at 8k....more along the lines of 2-3k.....im guessing there is a huge difference...

 

[Defiant]

It works, but electrical etiquette states that you should always remove the negative cable, especially when working on or around the car's electronics. When you have to remove both battery connections, you always remove the negative first.

The logic being that if you touch the car with a wrench connected to the negative terminal, it won't matter. Touching the car from the positive to the chassis will likely vaporize the wrench and do severe damage to the hand holding it.

 

[got_jesus?]

Thanks for all your insite guys!!!!

Today after work I am going to check on all this stuff. I think the compression test will tell me allot.

I will keep yall posted...

 

[wesleys95awd]

The same thing happened to me, and i checked everything and finally i got some good help on here. Im going to pass on the help, check a plug-in right behind the valve cover, as in between the motor and firewall, there should be a plug in that has came loose. just press it down till it clips or pops into place. the plug in should in should be straight up and down.I think it comes from the coil pack, i think. i dont have any pictures but if you cant find what im talking about ill try to find some for you. hope that helps.

 

[got_jesus?]

The same thing happened to me, and i checked everything and finally i got some good help on here. Im going to pass on the help, check a plug-in right behind the valve cover, as in between the motor and firewall, there should be a plug in that has came loose. just press it down till it clips or pops into place. the plug in should in should be straight up and down.I think it comes from the coil pack, i think. i dont have any pictures but if you cant find what im talking about ill try to find some for you. hope that helps.

Thanks bro! I will check on that too when I get home...

 

[crashed97tsi]

The logic being that if you touch the car with a wrench connected to the negative terminal, it won't matter. Touching the car from the positive to the chassis will likely vaporize the wrench and do severe damage to the hand holding it.

It didn't vaporize the wrench, but the ratchet function did not work anymore. My hand was numb for about an hour and a half. Learned the hard way I guess.

 

[bones_420_99]

ah well good to know about that now but i was just going by the reseting the ecu. anyways after checking on a couple other sites at what may be issue since the car isn't starting but yet is firing i would take a look at the ecu first and just get that out of the way. it is like a 50-50 deal some problems were ecu and some where compression. keep us up to date on what is going on.

 

[ECLIPSE4x4]

The same thing happened to me, and i checked everything and finally i got some good help on here. Im going to pass on the help, check a plug-in right behind the valve cover, as in between the motor and firewall, there should be a plug in that has came loose. just press it down till it clips or pops into place. the plug in should in should be straight up and down.I think it comes from the coil pack, i think. i dont have any pictures but if you cant find what im talking about ill try to find some for you. hope that helps.

Like I stated in post 3?

 

[got_jesus?]

ok...

When I got home I put the battery back in the car. I had taken it out for some reason...I don't remember. Anyway, I put in back on and try to start the car. It started just fine. I was surprise! I backed out of the drive way to go for a test drive. I waited for about 3 minutes to let the car warm up. I revved to about 4000rpm, everything seemed fine. Then I try to rev again and it would not let me go past 3000. Once it hit 3000 in dropped to like 200rpms. I revved to keep the car from stalling out then it turned off on me.

So I said to myself, let me just do the compression test. I need a drum role please/ \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ \ / \ / \ / \ / \........Here are the results

From left to right

Chamber one 178-180

Chamber two 178-180

Chamber three 165-167

Chamber four 179-181

The third chamber is a little lower but from what VFAQ.com stated in is allowed to be "14 psi maximum difference between cylinders"

So I take it chamber 3 is normal. Plus I hear the chamber 3 is always a bit lower. Is that true?

After doing the test and I put everything back together the car started nicely. I left it on at idle for about 15 min letting the ECU reconfigure everything. I have not taken it out on a stroll to see if things are better yet. As for the sound and looks, it is great. It was idling normal.

I think the problems lies with the ECU. Something must of fried in it. Or after resetting the ECU so many time and checking the fuses, compression and other stuff the ECU finally feels comfortable to let the car start and run normal (well we will find that out this weekend when I drive it around).

So what do yall think?

<><
daniel

 

[Defiant]

I now tend to agree with the ECU idea. How's the alternator output voltage?

 

[got_jesus?]

How's the alternator output voltage?

How do I check that...

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

So open the ECU, and sniff the capacitors. If bad or going bad, will smell like fish.

 

[Defiant]

How do I check that...

Yank the cigarette lighter, carefully run the positive probe of a multimeter to the center contact, run the other lead to ground, start up the car and look for a bit over 14V.

 

[got_jesus?]

First of all, I will like to say thank you to the dsmtuner.com family for helping me out!

Yesterday, I drove my car around the block for the first time. It seemed to be fine so I drove it home about 45 min away. No problems what so ever. I did not get on it hard at all. I am going to wait for several more days before I do that just to make sure my car is in 100% working order.

So I guess the ECU was so freaked out from the over revved it was not letting the car run. Now that it had some rest and it had a chance to recalculate everything it gave the ok.

It is truly a blessing I did not jack anything up. Thank you Jesus!

The cool thing is I learned a lot more about DSM's because of this incident.

Thank you every one!

I will keep yall posted if anything goes wrong.

<><
Daniel

 

[bones_420_99]

Good to hear and good to know it is all good now. Most definetly keep us updated on what happens with it. Glad to hear nothing got bent or warped as I myself have been down for almost 6 months cause of almost same thing you did except i threw timing bad and just got it fixed along with valve job.

 

[got_jesus?]

Thanks!

I drove again yesterday, this time I got on it pretty hard! Pulls and feels perfect! So I guess it is back to normal now!

Woohoo!