Outstanding Engine Rebuild Questions..

[tamer]

After reading through the many engine rebuild threads, I have a few outstanding questions that I could not get answered. If they have been answered in a previous thread, please point me in the right direction, and I'm sorry for the trouble..

First, besides the normal "hand tools" this is the best list of "special tools" I could come up with on my own. Please add to the list if I missed anything:

Caliper (have that one)
Engine Lift
Engine Stand
Torque wrench (have that one)
Manual (have that one, is the Haynes enough?)

That's about all I can piece together, please let me know if I've missed something...

Second, from my experience working on and racing GP Motorcycles I obviously can rebuild and engine and stick it back in a bike. But GP motorcycles are so much simplier in terms of wiring. So I know I can hande the actual engine rebuild, but what my real concern is in wiring and hooking it all back up after the rebuild. Is it hard? I've always been a bit worried about forgeting a wire or two it hooking stuff up wrong, is it really as hard as I think it is? Anyone have any experiences to share?

Lastly, I've seen many places that sell engine rebuild kits with gaskets and pistons and what not, but I haven't run into any vendors that sell hardware sets and bearings. Anyone care to point me to a good place?

Just in case you're wondering, my plans for the engine are stock internals (maybe some beefier rods). I'm shooting for 450-500hp, still haven't decided the turbo, but I'm looking at either a EVO III 16G or an AGP RS52 turbo, both I'm hoping to boost between 20psi and 30psi in "race mode." The higher boost levels are the main reason I want to rebuild my 165k mile engine.

Thanks for your time,
Tamer

 

[NOSNUSE]

You are going to need alot of speciality tools to build a motor correctly, here are some you can add to your list:
Micrometers(measuring from 0 to 1", 0 to 3")
Dial bore gauge
Depth micrometer
Feeler gauge
and a few other that I can't think of but will post later
DO NOT USE PLASTI-GAUGE(sorry for yelling)

If you are planning on pushing 450 to 500hp forget using the EVO turbo you will need something bigger than that. Stock internals may handle alot of power, but if those are your expected goals, you might want to reconsider the internal a bit more. Wiring is simple just mark all the wire plugs with tape write down where they go and also take pictures of things as you go to help you remember where things went before. Engine Kits look on the vendors page on this site they have everyting you could want. That's all for now on till I can think of some other thing to help you out.


p.s. As a side note if you where into GP did you catch the Isle of Man TT on Speed Channel? Those have to be the most insane people I have ever seen.

 

[5PointOh]

Usually when you buy your engine kit, with pistons, rings, gaskets, etc they come with bearings. However, you should take the engine apart before you go ordering stuff.

You don't NEED a dial bore guage, it's nice and makes it go a helluva lot faster but you can get by without it if you are careful. You want to order a micrometer set and a set of inside snap guages. It's a longer process, but you can acheive the same results and save around $150.

 

[tamer]

I figured the EVO would be kinda small, but wanted something that could revv quick if I decided to get into road racing (more interesting to me than drag racing), but we'll see, it's all in the planning stages, the RS52 seems to revv pretty quick and can make a good amount of power...

Thanks for the addtions to the tools list

Yes, I watched the TT, I'm a bit more "under control" those guys are pretty nuts, I can never see myself going that fast in the streets, even if it is a closed course. Riding on a purpose built roadcourse is what I like...Either way, it's still a load of fun...

Thanks both of you for the help,
Tamer

 

[Suparata]

Tamer
It not that obvious to me that you know how to rebuild an engine or that you have the right environment to do it.
Take me out of the shop and the only thing I would do if I’d had to rebuild an engine is take it to the right place to have it done.
No matter what gauges you buy, you cannot “duplicate” a machine shop period.

Nosuse
You have an issue with plasti gauge and I agree with half of what you are saying about it. It is not a perfect measurement by itself but it is a great measurement if it is done complementary to the measurements of the bore and shaft. It measures 3 things at one time and if two of those are known before the plasti-gauging it can show how the bearings are. How many bearings did you measure any other way? If you grew in a machine shop and paid any attention to things you know that manufacturers don’t always do it perfect.

 

[tamer]

Suparata,

I've rebuilt by GP bike engine(s) so many times I've lost count (Piston changed every 500 miles, crank every 1000, cylinder every 2000), it's pretty common to rack up at least 2000 miles in one racing season. Yes I'm only 16, but that doesn't make be unable to do it. The reason I'm wondering is I've never messed with 4-strokes before. GP bikes are 2-strokes, same idea, but 4-strokes are alot more complicated.

I never wanted to do the job that a machine shop does. My plan was to remove my engine myself, dissassemble it have a shop work the block, reassable it myself, and have a shop check over all the numbers, than put it back in myself...I honestly don't know what goes into rebuilding a car engine, that's why I'm asking...

So with that inmind, I'm guessing the only real tools I'd need for the job I'm planning on are the ones I had lised at the top, correct?

I hope I'm a bit more clear now...

Tamer

 

[NOSNUSE]

Suparata you are right, manufacturers were not always right and I have gone through a number of bearing sets on one motor more than once, but I can say that I never used plasti-gauge, and have only had 2 motors not turn out right(this is over a 15 year period or so). There are people who do use plasti-gauge and have had great luck with it, but I for one am not on of those people. I guess maybe I shouldn't say you can't use it, but just really avoid using it at all. The tools are there use them and use them right and they give you better piece of mind the first time you crank the motor over. In the end it is up to you, the builder, what way you chose. We can sit here and argue over what way is the best, but unless one of use is building it for you, you are the sole person responsible for how that motor goes together. Happy building and good luck .

p.s. Tamer, what's wrong with doing 170mph down a city street with a cobblestone wall only inches away from your face . Man we need a spell check on here.