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Oppinions on my build

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gsxcody

10+ Year Contributor
88
1
May 16, 2010
Snohomish, Washington
so i am in the process of doin a 6 bolt swap in my 2g gsx. i got my motor from a website called osaka.com (its supposed to be low milage). i did full maintenance replacing as much as i could on it. like gaskets, belts etc etc.. i was wondering how much boost/horsepower/torque you think i would be able to make and what amount safe to run with my set-up without completely losing reliability or blowing my engine.

my set up- 3 inch intake, 3 inch straightpiped exhaust, 3 inch dp, 3 inch 02 housing, magnus swim, turbo manifold, 272 cams (either bc or hks probably) hks cam gears, ferrea dual springs & ti retainers, 3g lifters, wahlobro 255 fuel pump, aem fuel rail, aeromotive fpr, 880 injectors, greddy bov, hks wastegate (40mm) recirculating to 02 housing, turbonetics t3 60 trim, unorthadox crank and waterpump pulleys, act 2100 clutch, act fly, polyurethane inserts, ngk plugs and wires, all new gaskets, new timing belt and waterpump, h&r springs, tokiko blue shocks/struts, boost gage, oil pressure gage, turbo timer, megan shortshifter, front mount intercooler, 2.5 inch intercooler piping (all hard pipe), aftermarket oil cooler probably more stuff too...

i might add that the only thing i didnt do that i would have liked is headstuds. tsk tsk tsk.

i am getting a full tune immediately after...obviously. i will hopefully have pina motorsports of kent, WA to tune it for me. i will be using the flashable blackbox ecu. 92 oct.

thanks everybody sorry for the lengthiness
 
Just take it to the dyno and find out, thats the only accurate youll find out. Your almost there so post the dyno results, when you get them.
 
I'm not a fan of unorthodox pulleys. Not on our cars at least. Big fan of fluidamper and that's it.
I've exceeded the holding capabilities of the act 2100 with my fp big t28. 2100 ain't gonna cut it.

Without arp head studs your going to limited to what say 22 psi? I don't have arp headstuds and I try not to go past 21 psi. Instead of limiting yourself just go back in and put the arp headstuds in. It can be done at anytime if you use the 1 for 1 replacement method.
 
Ya you definitely want to get the head studs. They are pretty cheap compared to some of the those other parts you listed. Ditch the AEM fuel rail and keep the stock one so you can buy headstuds
 
What is the 1 for 1 replacement meathod? and is there any way of doing headstud while the motor is in the car?
 
Never heard of the 1 for 1 but I am assuming you take one headstud out replace with ARP Torque to spec and repeat till all headstuds are replaced one at a time.

And yes, the headstuds can be replaced in car. just take off the valvecover.
 
There are a few in depth threads debating the use of unorthodox pulleys vs stock vs an upgraded crank pulley like fluidamper. There's quite a bit of reading that can be done about it.
Why would you put an underdrive unorthodox pulley system on a Dsm which already has a alternator that's unable to provide the needed level of output at high rpm high load situations? Doesn't make any sense.
 
Slowing down your accessories is a waste, they're designed to run where they're at. It won't net you noticeable power with a mods list like yours. Beyond that the smaller diameter and lighter weight lets harmonics have their way with your internals. Ever wonder why shit crankwalks?

You'll be driving a timebomb if you don't do head studs. If you do headstuds without doing the head gasket as well, you may be driving a semi-time bomb. Mitsubishi's head gaskets are designed to crunch once, if you take the pressure away they won't seal again. While some try to bypass this by doing one at a time, I wouldn't trust it. Do it right or you'll pay for it later. Also, you'll want a clutch, as others stated.
 
Cory bowers used the 1 for 1 method, and his car is runnign great. If you don't want to to a HG at the same time, just follow the pattern in the haynes manual and do each bolt one at a time. I have heard bad things about unorthodox pulleys, and I would highly suggest a fluidampr or an ATI crank pulley.
 
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