Oil Squirters

[BGizzlePatrick]

I am desperate to find some oil squirters for my 6 bolt block. It came out of a 91 2.0 turbo eclipse. I tried autozone and checkers just now and they both tried to sell my squirters for my windshield wipers soooo i am trying the dealership tomorrow and i also looked on ebay as i had seen them on sale there couple of days ago.
I am building a 2.3l stroker and just in case i cant find them (only one squirter is broken off) could i just remove them all like i know some people do? I dont really want to do that since its a turbo charged car and the pistons need to cool a litle
Or could i just keep one out and have 3 instead of 4 (doesnt seem to make sense though) or does someONE know where i can find either 1 used one or 4 new ones (while im on it). And are there differend ones depending on the year the car was build? The reason why im asking my 2g block is till good and running but when i do the sawp i could take them out of that one and use them if they would fit

 

[MNGSX]

Get them from these guys.

http://www.worldpac.com/

 

[biglady112]

1G six bolt and seven bolt oil squirtes are different than 2G seven bolts. The 1G's use the main oil galley in the block to feed from. They look like oil guns. 2G's are in the side of the main girdles. They are fed from the main bearing journal. They kind of look like a small caliber bullet. So they will not be interchangeable.

The dealer or a vendor is going to be your best bet. If you go six bolt I personally always block them off. If you use aftermarket pistons they are more durable than the stock cast ones. Also, look at how many cars in the world don't have them designed into the motor. Unless you are bulding a road race car, I don't see the need for them. They may help, but its not that bad. At least in my experience.

So either block them all off, or replace them all. I highly don't recommend to reuse them, as they may be stuck open. Than thats a whole other monster you don't want to deal with.

Steven

 

[MNGSX]

7 bolts are the ones that stick open.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199301

 

[kicknurass4fun]

Do you have forged pistons? If your running forged pistons you generally don't need the squirter's since most brands are designed to work without them. Many people will say removing the squirter's is wrong. In my opinion it is debatable but if i was running forged pistons and a squirter broke off i would just block off all of them. Good luck

 

[Defiant]

Dealer-only item. Try any of our sponsors.

 

[BGizzlePatrick]

Thx guys
Yes I just ordered a new 6bolt 4g64 crank and eagle rods and wiseco stroker pistons. I got the block from a friend who had it appart cause he spun a bearing and so he had it all in pieces and im kinda trying to figure out what goes where
I will see how much the squirters are and if they end up beeing too much i'll take them out and how do i block the holes? Do i have to get them welded or just stuff something in there and put jb weld on it

 

[BGizzlePatrick]

Ok i just got off the phone with the dealership and they said they dont have them in stock but can order them and all in all i would be looking at $45 each. Sounds pretty expensive.... so i guess i'll be mumbling and grumbling over that one for some time then.... how is it with the squirters do you guys think since the block has been sitting outside in rain storm and sunshine for about two years WITHOUT a crank in it and no oilpan on it (there is some amount of rust on the inside of the block but nothing i couldnt get rid of but i see if i can get some pictures up someday) that i should get new squirters and not reuse the old ones?
I guess i'll send Wiseco an email asking them if it would be ok to keep them out. My goal is to push the most out of my 2.3l stroker on pump gas and every day driven. Maybe like 500hp or so since the limit for my eagle rods is over 600 but i doubt i get that close anytime soon

 

[MNGSX]

Um I would get a different block.

I got some squiters from a diesel engine shop I am using on a turbo V8... It was like $100 for eight.

 

[BGizzlePatrick]

so you guys think that the litle bit of rust could be a problem? I mean its only on the edge where the oilpan goes on and then just a bot inside the crankcase . He pulled the crank and and one main bearing and where the main bearing goes (the first one) there is a litle rust you can see but hardly feel when you run your fingers over. I figured it might not be that much of a deal and that a machineshop could take care of it if i couldnt and besides, the main bearing are still going to go on top of it so the crank will be ok i hope .
One more thing for now, I have a big BIG back full of junk that he gave me with the motor and just wondering but when the crank is in the block and the main caps bolted down and all is there anything else that goes down there besides the oilpan and like the oil pickup thing?
When my friend spun his bearing he said it killed his balance shafts so he already took them out but i will still order a balanceshaft elimination kit just so i can do it the way it is meant for that extra peace of mind ;-)

 

[BGizzlePatrick]

Ok nevermind to my last question i just went through that bag a litle and found the old oilpump and that goes onto the block and fill that gap that i was talking about between the oilpan and the block (right underneath the crankshaft on the timingbelt side).
I bet i'll run into many more things as i go about figuring out what else is in that bag.
Man, i really need a digi cam so i can take pictures and ask ya'll what some of the parts are
Lets see, anything else i could think of right now? Oh yeah i found the ac compressor with the mounting bracet as well but if im not mistaken i believe i can use the one off of my 2g. The waterpump looks really bad rusted and all from the inside so i'll have to get a new one for sure. Are there any like "improved" versions out there? The reason im asking is because somewhere online i read about revised lifters and oilpumps they make for the dsms, just curious...