Oil Pump Removal

[BabyShanks]

ok guys im havin a bit of a problem here. well first i found out what the knockin was, after putting a new head on and a couple of checks found out the connecting rod bearing was loose. so i orderd some and then found out the oil pump is out. i started takin everything off to get it removed but im stuck wit the crank sprocket. i have NO idea how to remove that and the manuel doesnt explain it to me. can someone please give me some info on how to get it off so i can change it thats the only thing left before i get it running again. everything else is fine.

i got a 20g turbo from a friend of mines and it bolts up to the manifold but it doesnt have a waste gate so im waitin on a way to get that handled.

 

[needsy]

If we are thinking about the same sprocket, that is pressed on the end of the crank. It can be removed with a puller. The one I used was called a harmonic damper puller; it looks like the one in the link below. There should be threaded holes on the face of the gear that you can use with that tool.

Detail Page for 45300 Harmonic Balancer Puller for GM - Lisle Corporation

 

[BabyShanks]

dont know but this is the sprocket i was talkin about

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everything else is done and takin off i just need to get this off

 

[Dewayne Waldron]

The oil pump sprocket is the small one to the right of that.

 

[ilco187]

use a impact gun.

 

[LiquidX]

You need to remove the bolt first that hold the "key" that locks in the sprocket. Impact gun the bolt, remove it. Remove the key that holds the sprocket in place and remove both. Some sprockets are "stuck" on there a little bit and a pulley puller will work or you can gently pry from the back.

 

[BabyShanks]

ok so i got the oil pump bolt off ok then i must be talkin about the crank sprocket. ok so how do i get that off? you said use a impact gun (WHich I have) but what do i use to hold the crank in place? any ideas ### i tried the Phillips screwdriver in the back and i aint wanna mess up the inside. any ideas how i could hold the crank in place and its the same as takin any other bolt off right counterclockwise.

 

[LTUSPE]

It's a standard thread bolt (it's not reverse thread). I've always just turned up the air pressure to my impact and turn the bolt right out. I've never had to hold the crank from turning. Once the bolt is out you just pull the sprocket right off. I've never had to remove the key.

 

[ilco187]

you could just zip it off, but you could also wedge a piece of wood ''if you have the oil pan off'' between the crank and block.

 

[BabyShanks]

ok thanks a bunch for the help guys but just in case where is the so called key located? is it after you unscrew wit the impact gun or before?

 

[96eclipzGsT]

If you had knock from a rod bearing you can't just put a set of rod bearings in it. It will start knocking again in about 100 miles.

 

[BabyShanks]

If you had knock from a rod bearing you can't just put a set of rod bearings in it. It will start knocking again in about 100 miles.

ok so what do you suggest ### i have a new set comin in on monday

 

[96eclipzGsT]

ok so what do you suggest ### i have a new set comin in on monday

A rebuild... Bare minimum would be rods resized and new crank. The motor has to come out.

 

[BabyShanks]

A rebuild... Bare minimum would be rods resized and new crank. The motor has to come out.

A rebuild.....just for some connecting rod bearings....geez.

 

[96eclipzGsT]

A rebuild.....just for some connecting rod bearings....geez.

I hope your not being serious..

 

[Spoolin18]

I hope your not being serious..

My thoughts exactly, how the heck he gonna build a motor if he don't know....

 

[needsy]

ok thanks a bunch for the help guys but just in case where is the so called key located? is it after you unscrew wit the impact gun or before?

The key is after the bolt on the end of the crank. I don't recall there being a way to get it out without taking the sprocket off first. The key just keeps the sprocket from spinning on the crank.

A rebuild.....just for some connecting rod bearings....geez.

Yeah, it sucks. Engines are such precise machines that the wear associated with the failed bearing is almost guaranteed to be enough to cause things to go out of spec.

 

[BabyShanks]

I hope your not being serious..

what do you mean by that? sayin i do need a rebuild.

 

[96eclipzGsT]

what do you mean by that? sayin i do need a rebuild.

There is no way around it. You can put the bearings in it, but be looking forward to fixing it again in 100 miles or less.

 

[BabyShanks]

There is no way around it. You can put the bearings in it, but be looking forward to fixing it again in 100 miles or less.

....well i dont have the money for all that and then takin the engine out to change all that....seems like i mind as well just sent it to the shop for all this but after i do one thing another comes up.

 

[BabyShanks]

But ok then any ideas on a manifold that will work with the 20g turbo?

 

[Rob10_99]

It would be cheaper to just get a new JDM engine to drop in, time for a 6 bolt swap?(you have a 7bolt cause your front case dips =)
Yes, if your knock is audible, its way too late.

 

[cyclonekid77]

But ok then any ideas on a manifold that will work with the 20g turbo?

I would get your engine rebuilt or replaced before I worried about a 20g setup.