Oil Leak, Please help !!

[tjocus]

ive read and read and searched and searched but cant seem to find the answer im looking for !!!! my NEW motor has a pretty bad oil leak, ive traced it back to the bolt that threads into the REAR balance shaft bearing.. ive removed it and RTV'd the sh*t out of it, then let it setup for about 2 hours, fired the engine up and WAMO the same damn leak?!?! anyway my question is, is a seal or a bushing supossed to go around the shaft of the bolt because my bolt has no seal of anykind on it.. ive got the whole car back together but i dont want to put the covers and drivers wheel back on until i get this leak fixed !!! thanks, any help would be much appreciated... it looks like a bushing or seal should go in their, i thinnk the dude that built me engine may hve overlooked it

 

[Mike1992]

Theres a seal behind the oil pump sprocket

 

[tjocus]

Theres a seal behind the oil pump sprocket

yes but my leak is coming from the bolt on the bearing right above the oil pump t/b pulley / cog

 

[Mike1992]

The idler pulley bolt for the timing belt? I'd pull it out and thread tape it or put sealant on it. (let the sealant dry overnight) I find it really odd you have an oil leak from it though. Your sure its not leaking from somwhere else? Like a freeze plug

 

[lookin4dsm]

Is the plug still installed, that covers that bolt? It is about the size of a half dollar, somewhat star shaped but without the points. It screws into the front case and uses an o-ring to seal it. If either are missing, that is probably your leak.

Do you still have the balance shafts installed? If you did the bs elimination, how did you handle the removal of the rear shaft? If you put in the factory stubby shaft, you should be ok. If you did the free bs elimination, double check here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192995 or

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164907

You may have missed something.

Mike

 

[Mike1992]

Its hard to understand what he's talking about without a picture, but I think you just struck oil. New oil pump's don't usually come with the castle plug thats suppose to cover up that hole

http://slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1926&

 

[tjocus]

first of all, thanks for the replies !!! let me explain my problem area a little better... if youre looking at the timing belt end of the engine directly above the oil pump pulley is a bearing.. that bearing has a bolt with a the #10 on the head screwed into the center, this is all visible and has no cover... when the engine is running the bearing and bolt spin clockwise like the res of the engine but during operation oil leaks out from behind the bolt which then runs down behind the oil pump pulley and finaly runs down the edge of the block and drips from the pans edge.. i hope this helps...

 

[Mike1992]

Take a picture and circle the leaking area.

 

[lookin4dsm]

That is where the "castle plug" should be. Get one of those, along with the proper o-ring and, goodbye oil leak! I would also have a little "chat" with your engine builder. He should have known better. If you update your profile, or let me know what year and make your car is, I can look up the part numbers for you in CAPS.

Mike

 

[tjocus]

That is where the "castle plug" should be. Get one of those, along with the proper o-ring and, goodbye oil leak! I would also have a little "chat" with your engine builder. He should have known better. If you update your profile, or let me know what year and make your car is, I can look up the part numbers for you in CAPS.

Mike

Allright guys, you sent me in the right direction, I never heard the term castle plug before so i used the mighty search button and found this picture !!!! i circled the area where my leak is, only difference is i dont have a plug !!!! do you think i can loosen the oil pump pulley and pulle it out enough to get the plugg in place without having to take the timing belt off !!! by the way i have a 96 AWD TSI Talon.. THANKS SO MUCH !!!

 

[lookin4dsm]

castle plug - MD125376
o-ring - MD041021

I used a vin # off of autotrader from a 1996 Eclipse GSX in CAPS. Your TSI should use the same part number. Double check with the dealer though.

Mike

 

[tjocus]

castle plug - MD125376
o-ring - MD041021

I used a vin # off of autotrader from a 1996 Eclipse GSX in CAPS. Your TSI should use the same part number. Double check with the dealer though.

Mike

sweet man !!!! thanks for the help....

 

[lookin4dsm]

Your welcome and good luck. If you decide to try sliding the oil pump sprocket back a little to get the new o-ring and castle plug to go on, if it will work (in theory, I think it may work, I just don't know), please double check your timing and tension of the belt before you fire it up. In fact, if it does work, post back and let us know the results. It may help someone in the future, while doing a search.

Mike

 

[Strm Trpr]

My suggestion to you is to do the following before you try and slip this castled plug behind the oil pump sprocket.

1st, set everything in time by turning the crank clockwise til all timing marks are lined up with the cam sprocket dowels pointing up at 12 o'clock.
2nd, get some big zip ties to zip tie your cam sprockets to your T-Belt, this will keep them from falling off when you relieve tension on the belt.
3rd, get some white out and make a mark on the crankshaft sprocket and on the T-Belt so that the line transfers from the belt to the sprocket.
Do this for the cam sprockets too, you never know...
4th, do the same for the oil pump sprocket.

Now that everything is marked with white out, I'd clamp the oil pump sprocket and t-belt and crack that screw that is holding the oil pump sprocket on before relieving tension on the t-belt by using that long screw as seen in this picture.

Once tension is relieved, you'll be able to slip the t-belt off of the crankshaft sprocket and off of the oil pump sprocket.
Remove the oil pump sprocket and get that o-ring and castled plug in there.
There is a special socket that is castlated for torqueing that thing down, but you may be able to git'er done with a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer.
I bought the tool from Miller Tool, but I'm not sure if they still have it for sale.

Then once you are happy and satisfied with the tightness of the plug, slip the oil pump sprocket back on and finger tighten the screw that holds it on.
Now, refer to this link http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1100691&postcount=4 you'll see the entire front of the motor.
The pulley above the oil pump sprocket is the t-belt idler pulley.
You will want to start by slipping the belt over that pulley first and working your way down to the oil pump sprocket and line up the white out marks you made.
Next do the crankshaft sprocket and line up the marks you made.
Make sure the t-belt is on the tensioner pulley correctly before relieving tension on the system. The tensioner pulley is the pulley right in the middle with the spider bite looking holes in it.
Once you are happy with everything, and everything is all lined up with their timing marks, you should relieve the tension by removing the long screw as shown in the pic.
Clamp the t-belt to the oil pump sprocket and torque the screw with a torque wrench to the proper spec.
Be extremely careful not to allow the sprocket to turn under the t-belt.
If you did a BSE, then the time of the oil pump sprocket won't ever matter again.

You should be all dialed in, cut off the zip ties, sit back and have a cold one.