Oil cooler seals

[Turbo2g]

I am going to fix the final leaks on my engine. The oil filter housing/cooler is one of them. I am looking for the seals for it and I came up with these. They don't look the same, but seem to be advertised for the same thing. Which of these is right? Or are both right, just look different because they are different brands?

And is there another seal I need? I've heard there are two. Basically I need to know what to order and have for when I pull it apart.

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=26773&keep_https=yes
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/oem_dsm_oil_cooler_seal.htm

 

[chrysler kid]

I am going to fix the final leaks on my engine. The oil filter housing/cooler is one of them. I am looking for the seals for it and I came up with these. They don't look the same, but seem to be advertised for the same thing. Which of these is right? Or are both right, just look different because they are different brands?

And is there another seal I need? I've heard there are two. Basically I need to know what to order and have for when I pull it apart.

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=26773&keep_https=yes
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/oem_dsm_oil_cooler_seal.htm

I always go with extreme psi since they include the oe parts diagram, and the picture of the seal on the actual part too

The oil filter housing gasket is a paper gasket that goes on the end of the oil pump housing.

I've never had to replace the sandwich seal but it's not a bad ideal. Typically just retorqueing the inner threaded filter mounting bolt fixes the sandwich seal on the cooler

 

[shinzon]

Recently just changed my oil cooler and oil filter housing seals. There are only two, the paper gasket where the oil filter housing bolts to the block, and a rubber o-ring that sits between the round oil cooler, and filter housing. Be aware, they seem to have changed the design slightly, at least compared to the one that came from the factory on my '96, and the one I got by ordering the part number from Mitsu. Didn't cause any complications on install, but it did give me a moment of pause thinking I bought the wrong seal.

You can attack it in any order. What I did was pull the lower timing cover, unbolt the housing and replace the paper gasket. With the housing reinstalled, I unscrewed the rod where the oil filter threads and removed the oil cooler from the filter housing. From there I could pick the seal out, replace and reinstall.

2g Oil cooler to housing o-ring: MD620908
2g Oil filter housing to block gasket: MD185528

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[Turbo2g]

In response to Chryslerkid

I heard they are easy to over torque, and if the seal is flat, I'd be having to put extra force on it to squish the seal enough to stop the leak. I'll go ahead and do a new seal to make it a good fix. What about the mounting bolt? Some cars have seals on them. Is there one on this one? I haven't found a seal for it.

For my other leaks I'll be removing the oil pan, and turbo oil return line to the pan for re-sealing. I have the gaskets for the return line ends. Planning to just silicone the pan. The silly gaskets they make for them never last long. Any thing I might be missing? I did my front seals when I had the head off. These three things are where I have leakage left.

Any gaskets or seals I'm missing? I'm trying to get it all ordered.

Recently just changed my oil cooler and oil filter housing seals. There are only two, the paper gasket where the oil filter housing bolts to the block, and a rubber o-ring that sits between the round oil cooler, and filter housing. Be aware, they seem to have changed the design slightly, at least compared to the one that came from the factory on my '96, and the one I got by ordering the part number from Mitsu. Didn't cause any complications on install, but it did give me a moment of pause thinking I bought the wrong seal.

You can attack it in any order. What I did was pull the lower timing cover, unbolt the housing and replace the paper gasket. With the housing reinstalled, I unscrewed the rod where the oil filter threads and removed the oil cooler from the filter housing. From there I could pick the seal out, replace and reinstall.

2g Oil cooler to housing o-ring: MD620908
2g Oil filter housing to block gasket: MD185528

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Awesome, thanks! I dont plan to take off the whole housing. Just the adapter. I'll try the seal first and see if I need to go that far after. I didn't see that paper gasket leaking. So I only need the one seal then?

 

[shinzon]

I heard they are easy to over torque, and if the seal is flat, I'd be having to put extra force on it to squish the seal enough to stop the leak. I'll go ahead and do a new seal to make it a good fix. What about the mounting bolt? Some cars have seals on them. Is there one on this one? I haven't found a seal for it.

No seals for the mount bolts, and no liquid gasket/rtv called for in the service manual.

Any gaskets or seals I'm missing? I'm trying to get it all ordered.

If you've done everything on the front of the motor (I like to take Jaffro's advice and leave the star shaped bolt on the front case alone: "it doesn't leak unless you mess with it, so don't mess with it"), then the dip stick o-ring, turbo oil return tube seals/bolt seals...and I really can't think of any other seals that'd leak oil.

Awesome, thanks! I dont plan to take off the whole housing. Just the adapter. I'll try the seal first and see if I need to go that far after. I didn't see that paper gasket leaking. So I only need the one seal then?

Yup, just the one seal then.

 

[Turbo2g]

I didn't think about the dipstick o-ring. I'll take a look at it! Good call

 

[shinzon]

I didn't think about the dipstick o-ring. I'll take a look at it! Good call

Should be two on the stick itself, and one where the tube meets the block. Caps has two part numbers for the same date range... not sure which is which:

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Guide side is probably the one for the block.

 

[Turbo2g]

Thanks, I'll look into it if I have a leak there. Actually there is one other thing. I keep getting leakage from the copper washers on the slave cylinder. It was one of the original issues when I picked the car up with the clutch peddle on the floor. I have tightened the hell out of the fitting, don't want to tighten it more. But it gradually leaks. In about two months I have to refill the reservoir. Its not a bad slave. But I'm having a hard time finding the two copper washers that go there.

 

[shinzon]

Thanks, I'll look into it if I have a leak there. Actually there is one other thing. I keep getting leakage from the copper washers on the slave cylinder. It was one of the original issues when I picked the car up with the clutch peddle on the floor. I have tightened the hell out of the fitting, don't want to tighten it more. But it gradually leaks. In about two months I have to refill the reservoir. Its not a bad slave. But I'm having a hard time finding the two copper washers that go there.

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20418? Old number, MD603695, superseded by 2324A056.

 

[lasthope05]

You can reuse copper washers. They get work harden if you're always loosening/tightening them. As long as they are not totally crushed/deformed, heat up the washers cherry red and let them air cool to anneal them. They're as good as new after.