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Official Bench Racing Thread (how fast is my car/how much HP can I expect)

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I'm curious what kind of potential my car will have when finished. These are the mods:

Walbro 190 rewired, FIC 750cc, Aeromotive regulator, braided lines from filter to regulator.

Stock 7-bolt block w/ BS removed, 2g head, Evo3 intake and Magnus heat barrier gasket, 1g TB, ported 2g exhaust manifold, ported turbine housing and ported o2 housing, internally gated with an upgraded flapper. Comp Cams 101-200-8s (272s)

Frankenstein w/ billet extended tip 20g, TD05h turbine. Punishment racing FMIC kit, 1g BOV, 3" turbo back.

Evoscan and ECUflash to tune with.

I made 325/320 on a Mustang dyno at 22psi through a FWD 5-speed before the cams, intake and upgrading the compressor wheel to a billet extended tip 20g. It was just a standard Frankenstein 20g before. I'm now an AWD auto planning to run the same boost level.
 
you've got AWD on your side to counter the wheel spin that mustang would have...depends on the driver really...
 
Lighter weight, four wheel drive, differant type of power, id say yes. I've burned a supercharged mustang in my younger days with a 92TSI with 16g turbo and all the fixin's. The only chance is from a dig tho, from a dead stop the four wheel drive will be to much for the stang to handle, he'll be realin ya in chasin ya down the track, it'll be close at the finish line but id have faith in the DSM
 
you could beat a mustang(or any other RWD for that matter) that put out decent HP in a bone stock DSM if the drive can't control the rear end on heavy acceleration
 
Can so and so beat so and so questions are pretty terrible. Driver ability is 50% of a race. I've seen 350hp ls2 rx7's walk on 550hp vr4's. Taking into account whether you're talking about racing from a dig, or from a roll is another huge factor. Too many variables for a question like this to be answered.
 
what kind of hp ratings should i expect on 90 laser rst with a stock rebuild, 20g turbo, tubular manifold, fmic, FIC 750's, wally 255, afpr, full 3inch, intake tube, on base tune from link, with the stock maf?
 
what kind of hp ratings should i expect on 90 laser rst with a stock rebuild, 20g turbo, tubular manifold, fmic, FIC 750's, wally 255, afpr, full 3inch, intake tube, on base tune from link, with the stock maf?
 
Engine:Fluidyne Aluminum radiator and dual slim Flexalite fans
Bored 20 over to a 2.4
New exhaust
New header and downpipe chrome
New cold air intake chrome
Ported and polished head with PT lifters & rockers
60mm throttle body
Walbroh 255HP fuel pump
Stillen 1:1 Fuel Pressure Regulator
JE Pistons 8.8:1 CR
Eagle rods
Oil catch can
8 injector set up with 034eic - stock (210cc) primaries and 60#(610cc) secondaries
Coolingmist water-methanol injection setup
Southbend Stage 4 Clutch
5 speed swap w/ short shifter
Symborski shift kit
Welded solid motor mounts
Prothane motion control poly trans mounts
Weapon R coolant overflow tank
Electronics:
Autometer Phantom Mopar: Oil Pressure, Water Temp Gauges
Push-button start
battery relocated to trunk
Suspension:
25mm wheels spacers, extended lug studs, extended lugs
Manual steering rack conversion by MSP motorsports
Stealth front brake upgrade
Drilled/Slotted rotors all around
Neuspeed front strut bar
Megan Racing rear lower tie bar
 
No turbo? About stock-ish power. You just have rods/pistons that can handle a lot more, doesnt mean you're making any more than stock though. And how did you "bore it .020 over to a 2.4"?? Let me in on that secret

And this is bench racing.
 
It was a turbo car before and yes its bored to a 2.4

A .02 overbore does not increase displacement to 2.4L.

If you really are running 8.8:1 compression with no turbo on that engine, chances are you are producing stock or less than stock power numbers.

Lastly, if you really want to know what kind of power you're putting down, get on a dyno. Bench racing threads are useless.
 
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Ok I'm new at this site wht r u all meaning by bench racing and yes I bought this car built this way it was a turbo show/street car was built by corey conder and the car does run and drive good and is pretty quick is y I was wanting to know there just ain't no dynos close to where I live

But the car is bored to a 2.4 I thought he said 20. Over
 
Avenger, so assuming this is a 420a, unless he 2.4 swapped it.... Which is possible since Chrysler has a 2.4, and that's a common swap on the neon. However, like stated above, if this is non turbo with lower compression pistons, then you are probably less than stock horsepower. (150hp-ish is stock) Hard to state anything because of the missing information.

It's also hard to pinpoint a horsepower output because there are a ton of variables. It will need to be dyno-ed.
 
What info is missing? I just know what all he done to it I do know motor is bored yes its a avenger with the 420a if I could upload a pic of what car use to look like I would

And I was going to turbo it back but irs a everyday driver now. And if I didn't turbo it back j was going t o spray it for a little more power
 
Ok he just told me it is bored 20 over so whatever that will be I thought he said it was bored to a 2.4 that's my bad

And then I kinda want to see what ppl think and thier input of the car and what's done to it
 
Ok he just told me it is bored 20 over so whatever that will be I thought he said it was bored to a 2.4 that's my bad

And then I kinda want to see what ppl think and thier input of the car and what's done to it

My opinion? Go with a msns(whatever the latest version is, i dont follow 420a T anymore), get a good turbo setup and turn up the wick on it. Above posts are correct: you are most likely a little below stock hp levels due to the CR of the pistons. Thats ok cause, like i said, you are ready for some forced induction. Hell, find a log style t3 mani, wastegate, weld up an exhaust, manage those 8 injectors somehow and you will make double the power you are currently. At a minimum. Your mods look like a 420a T without the "T", good base to start from. Good luck bud
 
If it's running low comp turbo pistons with a cam intended for a turbo.. but there is no turbo installed I will all but guarantee you are making less than it would have completely stock across the entire rev range.

When someone tries to suggest to you that a .5mm overbore on a 2.0L is performance oriented, it's implying one of two things:
1.) They don't know what they are talking about
2.) They think you are a sucker

Possibly both.
 
Ok u say u don't follow 420a any more ain't that the same motor in eclipse and talons? And I know when it was turboed it made really good power but I will most likely turbo the car back and I will post build pics if it will let me it has already duplicate my pics that I posted

And I know the motor was bored out I was there when block came back from getting bored I just couldn't remember what it was bored to but it was 20 over I asked the old owner that built the car witch is one of my good friends and I know about boreing don't know a lot but I do know it takes away hp unless u have the right internals then u get back into gaining hp back I could be wrong but I know some. And yes this is my first dsm build
 
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Should be getting around to installing the rest of my parts and getting the old girl tuned by the time warm weather hits up here and just curious what some experianced dsmr's think it'll do in the 1/4. The car is a 1991 TSI AWD Auto with a 14b turbo. The car has roughly 130k mi and the compression #'s are 158,158,159,160

Parts List:
AEM Series 1 EMS running SD
AEM Wideband
ebay 3" Catback
3" cat eliminator downpipe
atmospheric o2 dump
VRSF FMIC kit
AEM AFPR
FIC 1000cc injectors
Walbro 255 FP w/rewire
3" intake pipe with vibrant filter.
Probably going to start with 20lbs of boost and see what my IDC's look like and go from there. Thanks for the input.
 
Hello! So this is one of my first posts and I have been looking through the interwebs to get a decent answer, I have a 93 eclipse fwd. After my first build went kapooey last year I invested some more money right now :
I'm bored .040 over

8.3 weisco hd's

eagle h beams with arp rod bolts

regular arp head studs

arp main studs

stock crank

my head is shaved to as low as it will go ( not my idea ) but I'm sure that will bump up my compression

The head has manly springs and crower retainers

Still taking advice On my cams...

Tial 38mm whatever blah blah you get it...

I still need supporting fuel system. Whats some good ideas for what i got going. Not really looking to be timid... I'll make as much power as it will take haha....

I have a 7 blade hx40 and what i think is a pte 6776. ( real big )


What kinda power do you think is to be expected?
 
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