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Official Bench Racing Thread (how fast is my car/how much HP can I expect)

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My neighbor put down 6 something with his stang on the stock cobra shortblock..With a oopercharger and meth basically.

The track kicked him out cause he needed a cage..And then he had some fun, blew the trans, and rear, and sold the car for more than it was worth.
 
some of these answers make me want to part out my car and not associate with dsm'ers LOL. my powerband is from 4k-9k, around 700 ALL WHEEL HP, in a TWENTY EIGHT HUNDRED pound car. I'll be trapping alot higher than 140mph in the 1/4. for christ sake I trapped 92 mph in the 1/8th in my fwd 16g, this car is close to the same weight as my old fwd car, with literally twice the horsepower and AWD. you guys really think a 700whp full weight foxbody will obliterate my car?
 
Remember mph does not win race! Just got to make sure your car leaves good, because he could be pulling your chain. Ive seen 70mm masterpower turboed 347s go 9.6s at@144 on 12psi.
 
Remember mph does not win race! Just got to make sure your car leaves good, because he could be pulling your chain. Ive seen 70mm masterpower turboed 347s go 9.6s at@144 on 12psi.

see this is the kind of answer i'd like. thats more realistic. and makes sense. thats a properly setup car with real results. this tool i'm racing has never had the car down a track, he's on drag radials with launch control and really short gearing.....i dont think he understands what it takes to run at the track LOL.
 
Clearly you have little knowledge of fox bodies.

1 a "full weight" fox is still lighter than your 2800lb car.

2 if properly setup it will out 60ft your car with ease.

3 if he has "short gears" he's really going to have an advantage in the 1/8th.

4 a 700hp fox will run 8's at over 150.

5 you don't even know how much hp your car is making, you dynoed on low boost, added more boost and you somehow think you have an accurate gauge of how fast and how much power you're making. Genius.

There are way to many variables to get an accurate guess but you still asked. Basic assumption is that if he owns a 700-800hp fox, he knows how to drive, and his car hooks. Otherwise he's just an idiot, which may be the case as well. But in reality, if the car is properly setup, you have no chance.
 
Clearly you have little knowledge of fox bodies.

1 a "full weight" fox is still lighter than your 2800lb car.

2 if properly setup it will out 60ft your car with ease.

3 if he has "short gears" he's really going to have an advantage in the 1/8th.

4 a 700hp fox will run 8's at over 150.

5 you don't even know how much hp your car is making, you dynoed on low boost, added more boost and you somehow think you have an accurate gauge of how fast and how much power you're making. Genius.

There are way to many variables to get an accurate guess but you still asked. Basic assumption is that if he owns a 700-800hp fox, he knows how to drive, and his car hooks. Otherwise he's just an idiot, which may be the case as well. But in reality, if the car is properly setup, you have no chance.

Hit the nail on the head. Which is why I said this:
Carburetors cool that charge very well too.

Look at what the radial tire Turbo Fox cars are running in the 1/8 and prepare to bite the pillow if this guy can drive.
 
Clearly you have little knowledge of fox bodies.

1 a "full weight" fox is still lighter than your 2800lb car.

2 if properly setup it will out 60ft your car with ease.

3 if he has "short gears" he's really going to have an advantage in the 1/8th.

4 a 700hp fox will run 8's at over 150.

5 you don't even know how much hp your car is making, you dynoed on low boost, added more boost and you somehow think you have an accurate gauge of how fast and how much power you're making. Genius.

There are way to many variables to get an accurate guess but you still asked. Basic assumption is that if he owns a 700-800hp fox, he knows how to drive, and his car hooks. Otherwise he's just an idiot, which may be the case as well. But in reality, if the car is properly setup, you have no chance.

1993 mustang gt
Curb Weight: 3160 lbs

you seem to know it all for someone only making 500hp on a $2500 turbo
 
That sort of response doesn't make any sense.

You are unsure yourself, you don't know the platform you are racing.. you don't know your actual figures.. and you asked for opinions.

The 87-93 redneck mobiles are a very competent and simple platform that goes very fast compared to our cars at the same power levels, often with less thought or effort involved.

Them's the facts.

I have had my hand in a few, and looking to add my own to the stable.

We won't know for sure till we see a slip break-down from the race if it ever happens, but its best to err on the side of caution in these situations.
 
1993 mustang gt
Curb Weight: 3160 lbs

you seem to know it all for someone only making 500hp on a $2500 turbo

Wow, you officially removed any doubt of being clueless.

1. 2 of my friends have full weight coupes, that weigh in at 2650ish, click another link on google next time.

2. I'm making over 500hp and trapping over 130mph on a 150k mile stock 6bolt shortblock, I think I'm doing ok.

3. I paid $1699?

4. You're so smart, but you come in here bench racing about a fox that should destroy you, then get bent out of shape when everyone tells you what SHOULD happen.
 
That sort of response doesn't make any sense.

You are unsure yourself, you don't know the platform you are racing.. you don't know your actual figures.. and you asked for opinions.

The 87-93 redneck mobiles are a very competent and simple platform that goes very fast compared to our cars at the same power levels, often with less thought or effort involved.

Them's the facts.

I have had my hand in a few, and looking to add my own to the stable.

We won't know for sure till we see a slip break-down from the race if it ever happens, but its best to err on the side of caution in these situations.

Thank you for "dumbing" it down for me. But what I don't get is everyones concept here. Local guy here with a full weight evo dyno'd 610 to the wheels and ran 9.9 in the 1/4 on motorcycle slicks. and theres a full weight integra making 430whp that traps 130mph in the 1/4. i want to know where this sub 10 second crap came from etc. you guys must all be some really shitty drivers LOL.
 
Yeah... You gotta watch those turbo foxes... I've seen a bunch of thrm run single digit times.... And made it seem effortless. You also have to remember that these are bigger displacement engines on boost. As much as i love dsms.... There truly is no replacement for displacement. Add that in a light chassis.... And they fly. However if the guy cannot drive then theres a chance. Just be wary.
 
Thank you for "dumbing" it down for me. But what I don't get is everyones concept here. Local guy here with a full weight evo dyno'd 610 to the wheels and ran 9.9 in the 1/4 on motorcycle slicks. and theres a full weight integra making 430whp that traps 130mph in the 1/4. i want to know where this sub 10 second crap came from etc. you guys must all be some really shitty drivers LOL.


Considering you have not made a pass yet, don't preclude yourself from the shitty drivers club.

They may be making you a jacket after the race ;)
 
The fox has no subframe connectors, traction bars or cage? This is simple...if he's on stickies he's going to break something, if he's on street tires he's going to spin. Especially if he's never made a pass in it before. Couple mods and some seat time and that Fox is an EASY 9 sec car though.


Turbo LSx Fox=SEX.
 
He has a very strong setup potentially, but on (small) radials he should just have an auto setup instead of a short geared manual on the street. In the video he has 17s if he has a 15inch drag radial combo with a 275 or something along those lines that will help.

Now as well you posted a video from 2010, a lot can change on a cars setup in 2 years i wouldn't be surprised if the car is possibly faster now.

Weight wise Coupes (notches) are pretty light and the one in the video is a GT hatch which adds some weight, if its a weekend cruiser with a system and other shit etc i can see it being maybe 2850-3000

Bring everything you got and don't be disappointed if you happen to lose.
 
Ok want to get some opinions on what hp to realistically expect from my new setup when I finish the rebuild. Here goes the mod list
95 gst
7bolt head stock minus a set of delta h272s and arp head studs
6bolt block-bored .20 over je 8.5 comp pistons eagle rods, balanced rotating assembly, bse
Gates racing timing belt
Pr fmic
Pr recirc o2 housing with tial gate
3in turbo back
Hx35 in bep .55 bolt on housing
Ecmlink v3 lite running sd
All supporting things like wb, boost, oil psi
1200cc presicion injectors
Wally 255 rewired
Tank to rail kit with fuelab filter
Afpr
Full weight minus a carbon fiber hatch.

So what do you all estimate it should be making after tuned to around 26psi, as long as I can make it without meth on 93 oct? Also any 1/4 time estimates for whenever I get to where I don't suck at driving haha?
 
ET is going to come down to chassis, suspension, tire and driver mods.

Trap speed is a product of power (and traction)

Power is going to be whatever it is.

No way to guess.

Best case scenario on pump 93, no meth, delta re-grinds of another companies "272," recirc'd waste gate and no mention of intake pipe/manifold or exhaust manifold and a 3" exhaust pipe with a 54-56mm turbo.. maybe low-mid 400s awhp to be conservative in my opinion.

You aren't going to max that turbo on 93 as you are probably aware, no way to know how much boost/timing you'll get away with and no mention of what valve springs you are going to run... so it would be tough to estimate where you would land on the compressor map because we don't know what sort of red-line you'll be limited to.

Even then a certain airflow figure doesn't automatically equal a certain power figure, you would have to use the VSS to find your 70-90 and 80-100 times vs weight or trap speed vs weight, or a dyno to have a handle on it.

That turbine housing will create healthy mid-range torque but power will likely fall off up top if you are winding past 8k on a 2.0 if those cams are any good because the motor will start to have difficulty breathing through the turbine wheel/housing combo.

So long story short.. who knows.
 
ET is going to come down to chassis, suspension, tire and driver mods.

Trap speed is a product of power (and traction)

Power is going to be whatever it is.

No way to guess.

Best case scenario on pump 93, no meth, delta re-grinds of another companies "272," recirc'd waste gate and no mention of intake pipe/manifold or exhaust manifold and a 3" exhaust pipe with a 54-56mm turbo.. maybe low-mid 400s awhp to be conservative in my opinion.

You aren't going to max that turbo on 93 as you are probably aware, no way to know how much boost/timing you'll get away with and no mention of what valve springs you are going to run... so it would be tough to estimate where you would land on the compressor map because we don't know what sort of red-line you'll be limited to.

Even then a certain airflow figure doesn't automatically equal a certain power figure, you would have to use the VSS to find your 70-90 and 80-100 times vs weight or trap speed vs weight, or a dyno to have a handle on it.

That turbine housing will create healthy mid-range torque but power will likely fall off up top if you are winding past 8k on a 2.0 if those cams are any good because the motor will start to have difficulty breathing through the turbine wheel/housing combo.

So long story short.. who knows.

Thanks for the break down. The mani is a crappy eBay tubular, and intake is a 4in fp that I may run and extension on down to the stock smic spot. Head will have stock springs, and will only rev to around 7k give or take.
 
Lol. My spyder was at 26psi on 93oct this summer with my Holset and pretty similar mods. 390-410ish I would guess.. I had to run retarded low timing to keep from knocking with pump gas. Sucked. Be careful with that ebay manifold, these Holsets arent light and itll probably break. If you have the stock manifold around Id port that and run it over the Ebay one.
 
- Custom 3" turbo back exhaust (quiet)
- 3g lifters
- Injen Recirculating cold air intake
- Megan strut bars (front and rear)
- Megan Coilovers
- Fluidamper Harmonic Balancer
- Anti-Sway bars (front and rear)
- NGK plugs and wires
- Centerforce clutch with OEM throwout bearing
- B&M Short Throw Shifter and symbroski brass bushings
- Optima Red-Top Battery


Okay i am the epicenter of newbie...well i was untill about 14 hours of reading in the last week or so. but im from the car world so i can hold a basic understanding.

What can i accomplish with this car before a dsmlink??i dont know enough about tuning, im not interested in it at this point and somwhere in the future ill move into that stage of my DSM experience.

if its not listed in my mods its stock. ive tore everything down and looked over generla maitenance procedures and everythings squared away. so my question is... what can i pull off without tuning. how much whp would i be looking at.

Thanks!!! cant wait for the replies yoooo
 
Boost gauge and a wideband would the next step. Then you can pick up a manual boost controller and up the boost a couple psi. It will be bring the car right to life.

Sadly with the mbc and your current mods, that will be about as far as you can go with out some sort of tuner, maft, safc, link, etc.
 
hm... i figured, that is sad. for the future whats the running rate on a dsmlink? and what am i figuring the stock system can handle on the mbc? current stock is what?8-9? and ive removed the regulator on the Wastegate so that adds a small amount to my understanding(1-2?)

Also, for the BoV, ive heard things about replacing the stock with a 1g? and ive done a ton of reading so im confident about understanding them, but would a type s do anything bad for me? or would it just be a supporting mod for further down the road(which i would be okay with)

Just looking for smaller tasks to get my hands dirty and get a feel for my car

Edit: This is what im currently thinking. Finding maybe a greddy type S BoV
FMIC > the Stock
MBC
Aftermarket Boost gauge(bcuz the stock is junk)

And correct me if im wrong but my progression pretty much stops there correct?
 
hm... i figured, that is sad. for the future whats the running rate on a dsmlink? and what am i figuring the stock system can handle on the mbc? current stock is what?8-9? and ive removed the regulator on the Wastegate so that adds a small amount to my understanding(1-2?)

Just grab a boost gauge and you'll know for sure. Iirc the 2g's ran 12-ish psi stock. On average you can bump it up to about 15ish. Every car is different though. Thats where the wideband and boost gauge come in. You can monitor the changes in real time. And yes the stock system can handle the small change just fine.

Link goes for $425 new + the cost of an eprom ecu if you dont already have one.


Also, for the BoV, ive heard things about replacing the stock with a 1g? and ive done a ton of reading so im confident about understanding them, but would a type s do anything bad for me? or would it just be a supporting mod for further down the road(which i would be okay with)

Just looking for smaller tasks to get my hands dirty and get a feel for my car

The stock 2g bov is shit, plastic. The 1g is a slight upgrade, holds a bit more boost. But you will need an adapter, so i wouldnt waste my time personally. If you have the cash just get a real bov like a tial or something. It wouldnt add any power, but it will allow you to hold more boost which will make more power LOL.

The boost gauge and wideband will get you started. They're a good weekend project and really gets you learning the car(performance wise) from the ground up. Should be able to grab the mbc, wb, and boost gauge for like $360.

Plus those three things will always be needed, especially for tuning with link, etc. Cant tune without them.

Edit: This is what im currently thinking. Finding maybe a greddy type S BoV
FMIC > the Stock
MBC
Aftermarket Boost gauge(bcuz the stock is junk)

And correct me if im wrong but my progression pretty much stops there correct?

Bov - is fine
FMIC - you can upgrade this whenever you want with out tuning(sorry should have mentioned that) here's the fmic of choice for street cars. Cant beat it for the price
_p_VRSF 2G FMIC Front Mount Intercooler Kit : 95-99 Eclipse & Talon Turbo 2G

mbc - most will recommend a hallman mbc
boost gauge - bingo, stock is useless

Note - a wb is a big step, one of the base mods required. It will also allow you to push the boost a bit higher before you get tuning. Just watch the afr's.

FMIC - $300
wb - $200
mbc - $80
b gauge - $40-$80
bov - $200 - $350

Theres almost $1k worth of mods, a couple cases, and a couple weekends worth of garage time.
 
Last edited:
yeah the Wideband slipped my mind, i just read a couple articles on them in the short time it took you to reply.
Good idea to buy parts from the classifieds on here? college student, i got the money and whats not. but i can allways use the cash other places.

Also fortunately i the guy i bought the car off of had some crap sitting around, one of which is the FMIC so hopefully good deals!! Thanks for the Replys man. people like you on this site are one of the reasons i havnt even considered looking at other sites short of a quick google spam

Thanks again Bro

Edit: any ballpark of what the HP coming out of it will be after all this is installed(i know its nothing major but im surious) and the 97 was a 195HP car if im not mistaken??
 
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