Oem clutch tob????

[99greenstang]

Ok guys need a little help here im having to go back in the transmission after a new clutch replace and tob. I used a Sachs clutch kit on my 1996 eclipse 420a Manual ( obviously) I was told to only use the oem bearing after i had already completed the install. well i had a rattle i checked out the oem bearing numbers being Throwout Bearing:
M04670026AB (mitsubishi part number) or 4670026AB (MOPAR part number).

well after searching those up online the bearing is like 80 dollars seriously? is this correct ? is there another place ? that just seems absurd. please help. also do i need to use a oem pilot bearing as well . i know the issue i was hearing was the oem tob had a plastic sleeve or something and the aftermarket ones dont and thats why they screech and ratlle etc. comment and help please ! need answers ! thanks god bless

 

[callmesaj]

I bought mine for 36 bucks from the Mitsubishi dealership in my town try to call your local dealer and get a price

 

[We're on Boost]

Well, you might be stuck at about $80 from what I can see.
The bearing for the turbo engines is only about $30 but for non-turbo it's looking like $80.

Tim Zimmer says on his web page for DSM clutches that he can get OEM mitsu parts at a discount, says to send him an email for a price.
But the ones he stocks are the $30 ones for turbo.
From what I see $80 is already discount - full blast retail is $100.

TMZ Performance

Good luck!

BTW if you want a couple minutes of good reading, read his modifications in his user profile. His user ID here is twicks69

 

[99greenstang]

80 bucks for a throw out bearing is ridiculous . you could turn rotors and put new brakes all the way around for that !! does anyone happen to know the real reason on why we have to use the OEM bearing ? also is there a special pilot bearing i need to use seeing as i didnt replace it the first time around. thanks for responses

 

[gieri002]

If you look at the construction of most aftermarket OEM TOBs they use 2 small plastic tabs on the corners to keep the bearing centered. The bearing needs to float a little bit to ensure it doesn't bind. The OEM TOB uses 4 metal tabs on each corner to keep the TOB centered. Some Aftermarket TOBs have a complete metal construction so the degenerative properties of the OEM bearing are also something to consider.

Id say there is no reason to take the risk. Do it once and be done. There are plenty of people on here with 150,000+ miles on their OEM TOBs, what more can you ask for?

 

[PsYcHoMaNtYsS]

i personally have given up on trying to get rid of the chatter. i've replaced my TOB twice, pivot ball, and fork via the dealership and after both instances about 6 months down the road the chatter returns.

 

[99greenstang]

ha ^ i wish mine would last a day or two !! So I could sell this lemon to someone else to deal with . I will not have another product affiliated with Dodge again for the rest of my life. The OEM TOB has a rubber sleeve and the aftermarkets are metal sleeved hence whats causing the noise , any other noise is probaly just cause its a piece of junk Dodge . im so over it .