Noticable loss of power.

[XiKeiyaZI]

So every car has it's up and downs.. and there are at least 300 threads on here titled "loss of Power' ... but to each his own. I enjoy detail...Here's a bit of history.

Not long ago, I hit a very muddy patch on a dirt road, and it somehow fried my alternator. At the same time, when I was checking things before I determined that my alternator was dead, I discovered a ticking noise near my PS Pump. I figured this was the damaged Alt. So I replaced the Alternator with a new one that tested perfect. Got everything up and going again, light ticking was still there. Not loud, but audible if you listen for it. I drove it around for about a mile, and the ticking went away.. but I still have it on startup. I figure this is a lifter?

Well... the car feels like it's lacking power. Used to, by the time I hit 10PSI, the car was REALLY pulling. Now it's just... like.. 'Yeah.. I'm speeding up.' Instead of balls to the wall ' BOOOOOOOOSSSSSTTT '. I pulled my plugs, and Cyl 1 was burning slightly white. The rest are burning pretty good save for the cylinder that has a leaky valve seal. It's burning fine but there is a little il build-up. I replaced all the plugs and VIOLA! It's running better... but still not as it was before. My gas milage is suffering, and the car just doesn't have the power it used to. I even timed it last night and the timing marks on the CAMs were dead on. I advanced it a little and it helped it a tad.. maybe 3*.

I'm also pretty sure I have a fairly bad boost leak somewhere because the last time I was able to do a BLT, the system would hold NO pressure. My MBC was leaking, I replaced the seals on my TB, and checked the Intake manifold.. sprayed with soap, no bubbles. Haven't had a chance to do another BLT. Would a Boost Leak cause the car to lose power? Would it effect the car even when not in boost? My Boost guage will show that I'm in vaccum, but I can hear the system trying to pressurize. Right now, there is only 87oct in it. Would the Fuel Rating cause this much power loss?

What do you guys think? Bad Boost Leak? Bad Fuel? Tbelt jumped a tooth? What?

 

[Develop247]

what are your maintenance records? change fuel filter! people neglect that fuel filter. fix your boost leak, check your gap on your plugs. There is a lot i don't know here. if you think the belt jumped... line up your arrows on the crank pulley and check your cam gears.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Well, I threw that t-Belt issue out just for kicks. I keep a close eye on my timing as I know how prone our cars are to jumping time if you don't keep it well maintained, though it is a distinct possibility.

The plug gap is set for .28 as they should be, and....for the life of me I can't remember if I changed the fuel filter when I put it all together. I could swear I did...but that's a good thing to check. I'll do that today. Would that cause the somewhat bumpy idle and loss of power though?

 

[Develop247]

if you have had impurities in your fuel, and run it through a filter. the filter over time will begin to get full of dirt and debris, causing less fuel to be able to continue on its pathway to detonation. i would change that if you don't recall changing it recently. remember 24 months or 30000 miles. whatever comes first. they are super cheap too.

edit: there is also the possibility its time for more boost! more boost? MORE BOOST!!!!!!!

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I'll give that a shot as well this afternoon!

But yeah,.. it just seems like it's running fine... but is lacking it's power and missing on occassion. From Passenger to Driver-Side, looking from the front of the car, Cylinders 4-3 & 2 are firing fine. Cylinder 1 is burning a little.. lean? It's whitish. Which... means too much air and not enough fuel? So I take it that would be suspect of a choke in the fuel delivery?

I put premium back in her yesterday and she seems to be running a bit better... but still not great. Everything else checks out.

 

[Develop247]

I bet she likes the premium gas! white means its too hot. check gaps, compression, wires, and vacuum leaks.

 

[dawid4444]

if the belt jumped a tooth will the car be much slower ?? and it felt like turbo has shaft play but its new turbo and it has no shaft play at all !
sometime it felt when i went WOT and it was bosting fine 15psi but the car just doesnt have power

but again the turbo has no shaft play

it started to do it after one day :/ when i was doing BLT and forget to conect MBC line to my wastegate :/

i took it on street and went WOT and my gauge showed me 25psi !! and i heard something in my engine bay like ''boom'' i went to garage and fix my problem but that day the problem starts :/

what do you guys think ??

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

............what? o_______o

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I just went out to my car and discovered something...

The two bolts you have to loosen to turn the CAS...one is on a bracket, the other is on the CAS. Well... the nut that goes onto the bracket that threads onto the bolt which runs into the TB is missing.

@__@ Could that be causing a bad leak/vaccum and killing my power?

 

[Develop247]

I just went out to my car and discovered something...

The two bolts you have to loosen to turn the CAS...one is on a bracket, the other is on the CAS. Well... the nut that goes onto the bracket that threads onto the bolt which runs into the TB is missing.

@__@ Could that be causing a bad leak/vaccum and killing my power?

with your hood open, start your car. Then, listen for noise in the location of the CAS. if you hear a hiss sound from there maybe. i couldn't tell you for sure.

you can also use carb cleaner to spray all around vacuum leaks. i forgot about that trick. if the idle goes down i believe you have yourself a leak.

 

[DSM1G90]

oh ya, nifty little manifold leak there with a nut gone.. just a "pee-hole" good enough to suck in enough air to ruin everything.

It's a 12mm x 1.5mm thread nut. Might have to head to Home Depot and find one - take the other one off to match. Or, head to a yard and yank a few of them off so you'll have some spares...

Usually the "loss of power" is that the main fuse (the 80A) fuse in that fuse block by the passenger shock tower has opened up and most of the time, it opens up inside where you can't see it.

That danged fuse is bolted down-not plugged in as with the others. it's held down by those two 10mm bolts on each side of the fuse underneath. I learned this one the hard way with changing out alternators and batteries trying to find battery drains..

-DSM

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Got the nut back on - No change.

Tested the Check Valve in the hose to the brake booster - checked fine.

ATTEMPTED to do a BLT. My Tester apparently failed, but was able to apply enough pressure to find a leak at the Jpipe where it bolts to the turbo.

I made a new gasket for the section between the Jpipe and turbo. Pressurized the system as much as I could with my faulty tester and found another one at the nipple from the Jpipe.

I put it all back together.. drove it.. and almost poo'd a little when I didn't hear the turbo spool. I let off the gas.. " FAH-WOOOOSH" ....My BOV has NEVER been that loud.. EVER. It pulls harder.. smoother...idles better...but the vaccum is about 4 lbs lower. So... I have NO idea? Car seems to run better...but less Vaccum?

I'll check that fuse today as well. My alternator kind of fried not too long ago..but I replaced it and now everything is fine. Are you saying that the fuse could be blown, but look fine...and the alt charge correctly.. but it drain power?