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Not your typical 6bolt 7bolt question

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Dyesuperman

10+ Year Contributor
523
22
Mar 10, 2009
Minot, North Dakota
Didnt want to label it "6bolt or 7bolt" so I changed the title up some. But anyways, I am switching to awd soon and I am stuck on what I should do about the engine. I want to replace all timing components, headgasket, and head studs while it's all out.

Now the problem is, while I have the motor out should I go ahead and switch to a 6bolt? My 7bolt has near perfect compression (175 across the board last time I checked if I did it right) so it should be in great condition. I want to see what I can get out of it on e85 but then I again, I don't want to spend 750+ on the mentioned items above only to have it blow soon after. There is a 6bolt block that is supposed to be rebuilt (not sure if I trust it though) on craigslist for 150 bucks and one that needs rebuilt for 75. I would have to buy all of the stuff for the 6bolt block too.

So in my situation what would you guys do? Keep the 7bolt and freshen it up or buy the 6bolt and buy the parts for it? I want to do a 7bolt 2.4 sometime in the future but I dont know how long ago that will be.

This may help also, plans are: -6AN fuel lines for whole system, 255hp walbro, fpr, 1200cc rc injectors, big h1c, 3g revised lifters, dsmlink, arp head studs, and xtd stage 4 clutch with the 2300 pp. All on e85
 
Oh forgot to mention miles on 7bolt. The previous owner told me it was rebuilt at 100k and my car now has 190k on it. I don't know if it was a complete rebuild or what parts were used, just that it was overhauled.
 
Well I suppose it kind of is but given my situation I am asking what you would do

I would not listen to anyone's biased and useleass advice that this thread is going to garner. Every crankwalk conspiracy theorist is going to tell you to ditch a perfectly good motor and swap a 6 bolt in. I would do what any logical person would do, and build the engine I have.

1G Big Rods
2G Pistons
ACL or Clevite Bearings

All of which will cost me less than a 6 bolt motor which only has the benefit of it is less likely to crankwalk, which is a hypothetical conversation as well, because most likely your engine isn't going to crankwalk.
 
So why not buy the rods for 50.00 and pay a shop $100.00 and put them on the pistons? I don't see the justification in spending $600.00+ for a 6 bolt just because of rods.

You aren't just getting rods, you are getting headbolts that are this much larger.



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You aren't just getting rods, you are getting headbolts that are this much larger.



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Solvable by putting in some L19s. You know, because we have so many posts about 7 bolts snapping head studs or bolts. And your picture is misleading, it's only 1mm size difference.
 

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I would not listen to anyone's biased and useleass advice that this thread is going to garner. Every crankwalk conspiracy theorist is going to tell you to ditch a perfectly good motor and swap a 6 bolt in. I would do what any logical person would do, and build the engine I have.

1G Big Rods
2G Pistons
ACL or Clevite Bearings

All of which will cost me less than a 6 bolt motor which only has the benefit of it is less likely to crankwalk, which is a hypothetical conversation as well, because most likely your engine isn't going to crankwalk.

Very true, I just realized how controversial this could get haha. The cost of doing the bearings and rods and getting it machined is comparable to the cost of a 6bolt swap. Soo, I think I may just check the crank end play when the engine is out and if it's all good, I'll go ahead and keep it. Which it should be since there are 90k on it since the rebuild with no noticed issues
 
As Spawned said build what you have. use L19s, 1g rods and call it a day. It will hold up to you without problem. I have been in the dsm game long enough to tell you if it was my car I would use what is there.
 
I guess 3 7 bolts handling a variety of power and never having a problem isn't sufficient enough experience. Typical Tuners member, the sky is falling.

I never mentioned crankwalk, or said the sky is falling. The op asked if a stock 6-bolt, or 7-bolt is better for an e-85 build. A six bolt is. A bone stock 6-bolt bottom end has made 656whp.
Just because a stock 6-bolt is better for a high torque build, doesn't make the 7-bolt a garbage engine.

I have built and tuned a ton of these things. If you have a choice between stock engines for close to the same price point, take a 6-bolt every time. This doesn't mean everyone needs to swap out a perfect 7-bolt or their car will explode. Now, if you are building an engine with aftermarket internals, there isn't really much of a difference.
 
I never mentioned crankwalk, or said the sky is falling. The op asked if a stock 6-bolt, or 7-bolt is better for an e-85 build. A six bolt is. A bone stock 6-bolt bottom end has made 656whp.
Just because a stock 6-bolt is better for a high torque build, doesn't make the 7-bolt a garbage engine.

I have built and tuned a ton of these things. If you have a choice between stock engines for close to the same price point, take a 6-bolt every time. This doesn't mean everyone needs to swap out a perfect 7-bolt or their car will explode. Now, if you are building an engine with aftermarket internals, there isn't really much of a difference.

Haha funny you mention the 656whp made on the stock bottom end...I am friends with Kevin and have bought the majority of my parts from him when he parted out his car. He is the reason I considered getting a 6 bolt instead of keeping my 7 bolt. But I think I will just go ahead and keep my 7 bolt and do 1g rods/2g pistons. Thank you for all of the input guys!
 
Why would you swap out a known good engine?
This is madness.

Also, are you sure you want to make a torquey 2.4 on an FWD car? Sounds like a terrible plan.
 
+1 for keeping your 7-bolt. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Put some thought into your build and it should last a long time. Then when/if it blows, give the 6-bolt another look.
 
Why would you swap out a known good engine?
This is madness.

Also, are you sure you want to make a torquey 2.4 on an FWD car? Sounds like a terrible plan.

OP says he is going AWD soon, I guess we will see if it actually happens.
 
Gottcha, I must have tl;dr'd that part. Anyway, keep the 7 bolt, especially if you're going to swap in a 4G64 later. A lot of people violate this rule, they're generally the same people that have adjustable cam gears, but never swap out a good engine.
 
If someone is selling a rebuilt 6 bolt for $150 then it probably hasn't been rebuilt. You can not do a good rebuild for that cheap. And why would that person be willing to lose that much money on it. I would stay way from that one. Maybe but the $75 one and rebuild it.

But, I would probably just work with the 7 bolt first.
 
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