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no topend power ..timming issue ??

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Yes, definitely. Not only will this change when the valves open/close in relation to where piston is, but it can also change the ignition timing.
 
i was having this problem for more then half a year... i took the timing light,checked the timing marks and :ohdamn::ohdamn: ,the ignition timing was messed up,so i adjusted everything and here we go,car pools strong and has way more power at the topend.....
 
yes the rpms go up very slow...im on 14psi and my friend has a stock fwd turbo eclipse on 15psi and from a dead stop he waxes my car he comes flying past @ like 25mph faster than me at 60 mph
 
How many total degrees of timing are you seeing on your dsmlink?? My car felt like a snail.. did not pull for anything.. i was only seeing 2* of total timing up top end.. turned out my timing belt was a tooth off.. which was causing it to be very knock happy.. now i fixed it.. and am getting about 14-15* of timing.. pulls very strong
 
How many total degrees of timing are you seeing on your dsmlink?? My car felt like a snail.. did not pull for anything.. i was only seeing 2* of total timing up top end.. turned out my timing belt was a tooth off.. which was causing it to be very knock happy.. now i fixed it.. and am getting about 14-15* of timing.. pulls very strong

i have no idea ..i havent put the link in it yet because i have to find out which wires to switch
 
I see you have the COP(coil on plug) setup.. this is straight from the ecmtuning site

COP Systems
If you have a Coil-On-Plug system, you need to swap primary ignition wires from the ECU instead of swapping spark plug wires. On a 2G, you would interchange the Black/Blue wire from ECU pin 10 with the Brown/Red wire from ECU pin 23. On a 1G, you would interchange the Yellow wire from ECU pin 54 with the Yellow/Red wire from ECU pin 55. In either case, you can swap the wires either at the ECU or at the under-hood Ignition Power Transistor connector. The wire color remains the same on both ends.

Note that primary-wire swapping described for the COP setup could just as well be used in lieu of swapping plug wires even if you don't have a COP system.


Hope this helps
 
A quick check just to see if you did skip a tooth on the timing belt is to rotate the engine until #1 cylinder is at TDC and take off the upper timing cover to see if the timing marks line up on the cam gears. If not, then you have your answer. If they do, I would check your ignition timing next, to use a timing light, hook up the positive wire to positive battery terminal and negative to negative, put the other connector (don't remember what its called) from timing light around the #1 spark plug wire. Ground the timing adjustment plug near the battery. Get a paint marker or white out and make a mark on the Crank Pulley where the little notch is. It is on the center ridge somewhere, just rotate the crank until you find it. With car running point the gun at the timing marks on lower t.b. cover and see where the white marks you made show up. Adjust the cam angle sensor as necessary to get it to ~8* BTDC. Hope this helps.
 
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