2G no start no spark

[cavyracer666]

Have read other no start no spark didn't find answer.

Drove to work one morning fine. Went to go get breakfast and wouldn't start. Came back hooked up scan tool did fuel pump test heard fuel pump. started up several times in a row. started twice before leaving work. at the turn lane into my neighboorhood car shut off and wouldn't start again. bout 15 mins after started. tried until battery died. pushed it home, jump started it next day let it run until it cut off bout 10-15 mins, did the fuel pump test again it was fine, radiator was warm and temp was at 210, pulled plug wire put new plug in cranked it and watched for spark from in the car. got spark once and started after that no spark

seems liked a timed thing scince it wont start after bout 15 mins
any help would be appreciated thanks

 

[vzeoh6om]

ive had the same problem in my 2g gst and found out that the connector to my power transistor was connected but not cliped into place..sometimes the pins would touch and other times no(which causes the intermitent start)... pressed it down real hard and started rite up.... my advice:check connectors even if it seems like its connected properly... hope this helps

 

[1995gsx20g]

i would check the following

-Cam angle sensor
-Power transistor like stated above
-wiring related to the cam angle or power transistor

 

[doubleclutch99]

Sounds like bad caps in the ecu. but you should check the usual stuff like spark and fuel pres. timing belt and all the marks on the gears.

 

[And_44]

Would a coolant sensor trick the car into not running by chance? Just curious seems he gets car started and when it gets warm it stops runnin'. Just curious. If it's running fine and smooth when you get it running for the 10-15 min I wouldn't think it would be timing. Unless the rpm's are jumping all around and/or exhaust smells rich. Also had a similar problem on a lawn mower engine ( I know differnt) but the ignition coil had a crack in it and when cold it would work but when got to operating temps expantion/contraction would take over and make the coil not work until cool again.

ECU too a possible weak link;( Not to hard to check either, pull and pop it open. That is if you have no qwalms about resetting it. Here's a nice weblink that gives descriptions and pictures of damaged ECU boards to give you an idea of what to look for ( http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/ecurepairhome )

 

[And_44]

Also if you havn't reset your ecu, well maybe it will work on a reset ecu. But when your Ecu fries it self it may put out a code. To retrieve the code just go to Radio shack and buy a 12v electric buzzer and use that to count the code. If your ECU is fried most likely it will be one long continious buzz. Buzzer is like 2 bucks and some change. Very nice to have I use mine weekly to count codes because my EGR sensor wire fried itself and really don't have the 70 bucks to buy new useless sensor.