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No Spark! please help

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KaLo_o

10+ Year Contributor
227
1
Mar 9, 2009
Quebec, QC, Canada
Ok so ive put back together a 1G AWD turbo, completed everything but now i have no spark! i have another 1G N/A so ive ben swaping parts just to see if it was that...so far ive swapped the CAS, Coilpack,Power transistor....i know its not the wires or spark plugs cause they are new. timing belt timing is dead on...ive tried moving the cas around to see if it would start but nothing.... i havent checked the fuses yet cause i dont know where they are located?? MPI fuse? also it definitly has fuel cause i have a FPR and its reading 38 ish when i crank it. im hoping its not my ECU, im looking for a spare one right now...

Also something strange is that i have no power to my Wipers, signal lights and power windows.... any help would be great

oh yeah and when i turn the key to ''ON" the position right before starting it...the car makes a steady BEEEEEEPPPPP for about 6 seconds...is that some kind of signal that something is wrong?

i just tried another turbo ECU and still nothing! im getting really pissed, im moving in 2 days and i need to start my car asap!!
 
MPI fuse is good...swapped it with another working one, im really guessing its the MPI relay now too! does anybody know if i can swap it from a FWD N/A onto my AWD TSI, both first gen
 
i dont see why not if it fits and has the same amperage.

but also keep in mind they are two totally dif vehicles 2 TOTally dif ENGINES

and with you windows and wipers and blinkers, is another fuse to<. might want to look further into because you might have a faulty connection somewhere, but it is an older vehicle so it might be just time they needed to be replaced.
 
i fixed my blinkers, the plug wasent conected good in the back of my interior panel, as for the MPI relay....about the cars... i dont see why its a TOTALY difrent engine as they are both 4g63 engines only 1 is turbocharged. i know the fuel injectors are difrent on a N/A and thats why im worried because MPI stands for Multi port Fuel Injection, so.... does anybody know if this would still work?
 
oh, MY BAD forgot 1gs have the 4g, so let me correct myself they have different internals. they have diff cams and diff pistons and bigger rods on a turbod 4g
so yea do it, itll work

on these 1gs, most people jerry rig theyre stuff.. is what ive learned from people, yea the best and most reliable way, the way i learned. do it right the first time or you might just run into bigger probs down the road.

try goin to a junk yard and yank one off a junker<

shouldnt be more then 5 bucks but if your good at it you ###### could get it for free.
 
allright, well before i try it i would like to know the precise job of the MPI, does it control the injectors in any way? since the N/A has smaller injectors im not sure if i wanna do the swap. does naybody think it will affect something? or does anybody know if they have the same part number for both cars??? thanks
 
When activated by the battery/ignition switch, the MPI relay should turn on the power supply switch, ultimately powering the things like injectors, mass air flow sensor, idle air control motor, cam angle sensor, etc. Again, all 1990-1994 DSMs with a 2.0L 4G63 engine have the same MPI relay.
 
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thanks again, and are you saying the MPI relay is activated by the ECU? cause yeah my ECU wont boot and i was wondering what comes first....ECU to MPI or MPI to ECU.
 
ok guys.....now waiting for my buddy to comes over with his car to let me swap and test !
 
:( nope..... now im hitting the point of being depressed!!

would not having enough grounds prevent the ECU from booting? i have 2 grounds in total....tranny to chassis and battery to chassis. battery is relocated to the back

im in desperate need of help.... :(

allright heres an interesting update.... I bought an ECU that is from a god dam VR4 i believe....part number MD128618, so im pretty sure my original ECU is just fried to shit.... I need to find an ECU now....
 
Is your boost gauge "popping up" with the key on and engine off? Is the check engine light on with the key on and engine off? If not on either of these chances are the ECU is bad. If they both turn on check the following-

Are you getting a 12v feed to your CAS? This is probably the easiest thing to test. Also check and see if you're getting 12v feed to your MAF. Both of these sensors will pull down the 12v and transmit it out in an appropriate response if working properly.

If you're lacking 12v at the CAS but not the MAF, chances are you may have a bad wire. If you're not getting power to either check that the MPI relay is getting a 12v feed. If the MPI relay is getting power the next step is to check the relay with the below method-

Section 4-3, Fuel Injection Control Relay Check. (just the relay)
step 32 - Remove EFI relay
step 33 - Connect battery positive (+) to terminal 10 and battery negative (-) to terminal 8
step 34 - Connect voltmeter negative probe to the battery negative terminal, Connect voltmeter positive probe to terminal 4 and then to terminal 5, There should be 12volts at each terminal.
step 35 - Connect battery positive (+) to terminal 9 and battery negative (-) to terminal 6
step 36 - Check for continiuity between terminals 2 and 3, there should be continuity, next remove the ground lead from terminal 6 and check again, there should be no continuity.
step 37 - Connect battery positive (+) to terminal 3 and battery negative (-) to terminal 7
step 38 - Check for voltage between terminal 2 and the battery ground, there should be 12v
step 39 - If the test results are incorrect, replace relay with new part.

If it passes the general conclusion is that the ECU is bad (not sending a "turn on" signal to the relay), you can check the ECU signal leads to verify that it is or is not sending a signal to the MPI relay if you wish (i would recommend it). I would suggest testing the ECU outputs at the MPI harness aswell as the ECU to verify you do not have a bad wire somewhere in between.

Hope this helps, good luck!
 
ok so i have a check engine light now....i found a wire that was hanging loose and when i conected it to the chassis, my check engine light came on and my boost gauge also turns on, MPI is now making a clicking noise....i have spark...i have fuel pressure, i rotated the CAS by hand and i can hear the injectors clicking. STILL NO START
 
have you tried switchin out ecu's maybe one of your transistors in it fried?

if the mpi was clicking, tighten you ground on your battery. clean the terminals... maybe its loose, mine clicked like that before, and just died... but it would turn on and drive just not like it was supposed to run/
 
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