No oil pressure after turbo install

[teamo2t]

I have NO oil pressure and the oil light is on… 1999 GST … I just changed my head gasket and swapped out my turbo for an EVO III 16G (installed a stainless steel oil feed line to the turbo). It took me a while since I really did not have much time to work on it. Roughly about 4 months. Any, last night I finally finished everything. I primed the system and started the motor up. I noticed right away that the oil light was on and that I was not reading any oil pressure (on the factory oil pressure gauge). I checked the oil level and I am full. I did not touch the oil pump and everything was fine before the install.

Can anyone please throw me some ideas… I really would hate to have to go install a new oil pump now after all that work. I want to rule out any other possibilities first. Thanks for any assistance you may be able to provide.

 

[twicks69]

Have you checked the electrical connection between the engine harness and the oil pressure sender on the oil filter housing?

I would reccomend checking for oil pressure using a mechanical gauge connected off of the oil filter housing, before you start taking everything apart.

Also, did you properly check your installation of the timing belt when you replaced your head gasket?

I would start there, then post back.

 

[Splitpi]

Yes, check the connection to the oil pressure sender first.

 

[BISHILVR]

How long did you let the engine run? I ran into that with my car once, and it took about 30 seconds of 10 second run intervals before I got any oil pressure. I am still not sure what was going on, but you could hear the engine bog down when the oil pump finally primed and started to work. I think the pump just lost its prime for some reason or another. You might try letting it idle for a few 10 second intervals, with about a minute in between to see if it comes around.

 

[teamo2t]

I tried priming the motor by cranking it about 5 times for about 5 seconds each crank. Then I turned it on and it ran for about 5 seconds. I noticed no oil pressure so I shut it off... I could not believe it so I cranked it over again and it ran for about 10 seconds very rough. I worry about running the motor without oil pressure. I hate to imagine what kind of grinding is going on in there without oil pressure!

I am a bit of a noob... Can any one direct me to a link where I can read about how to locate and check the oil pressure sender? I know it is near the oil filter housing right??? Pics would help if you have one handy. I found a few threads that showed pictures of 1g but none told me what to check. Just the connection?

 

[BISHILVR]

Well, pull the oil filler cap off and start the car and if you can see oil being thrown around up top (it will be obvious) then you have oil pressure of some type. Cranking the car to get oil pressure in my case did'nt work. I had to actually run the engine in a couple of 10 second bursts a few times to finally get the pump to prime and start working again.

 

[twicks69]

I am not able to post any pics this second, but I will try to describe the location of it, along with what it looks like.

It is on the oil filter housing, and is a gold color metal "bulb" with a single wire and black plastic electrical connection on the head of it. The plastic clip slides onto the head of the pressure sender and can sometimes be loose, or have corrosion on the electrical connection.


You said that the engine was bogging down when you ran it...

Check the above first, I don't want to scare you yet with the worst case scenario situation of an oil pump failure.

 

[teamo2t]

Well, pull the oil filler cap off and start the car and if you can see oil being thrown around up top (it will be obvious) then you have oil pressure of some type. Cranking the car to get oil pressure in my case did'nt work. I had to actually run the engine in a couple of 10 second bursts a few times to finally get the pump to prime and start working again.

I tried looking under the cap and there was no oil flying around like I hoped... That was on the second time starting the car. I should have mentioned that.

I will check the oil pressure sender... but seeing that I did not have oil flying around under the valve cover that probably won’t do me any good. How many times did you run the car before you got pressure? I am not opposed to trying that, but isn't that dangerous? Seized up motors don’t make me very happy...

Why would an oil pump go bad from just sitting there?

 

[twicks69]

Why would an oil pump go bad from just sitting there?

You do remember that we own DSM's. They don't need a reason to break, they just do because they can.



Ok, now if it is the oil pump that you think is being an issue, I have a list of questions for you to answer.

when was it last replaced? what is the mileage on it? what brand is it? is it original? When you replaced the head gasket, did you pull of the oil pump and inspect it for damage or wear or freeplay/gear resistance? Have you actually ever replaced the timing belt or the balance shaft belt?

Have you installed a balance shaft eliminator kit on this motor? If so, was it installed correctly, using new balance shaft bearings pressed into the block, with the oil passages plugged?

Have you used a mechanical oil pressure gauge connected up to the oil filter assembly at the port for the stock oil pressure sender yet? I would look for pressure first.

Have you pulled off the timing belt covers yet? I would make sure that the throughbolt holding the pulley is still there, even though the pulley is keyed...

I would also reccomend after you pull the T-belt covers, to drop the oil pan and look for damage, debris in oil, metal shavings, a clogged oil pickup tube, etc. I would also recommend inspecting the oil filter and make sure that it is replaced new. It would also be a good time to check that the oil filter housing oiling bolt (that the oil filter threads onto) is tightly installed.

 

[BISHILVR]

I tried looking under the cap and there was no oil flying around like I hoped... That was on the second time starting the car. I should have mentioned that.

I will check the oil pressure sender... but seeing that I did not have oil flying around under the valve cover that probably won't do me any good. How many times did you run the car before you got pressure? I am not opposed to trying that, but isn't that dangerous? Seized up motors don't make me very happy...

Why would an oil pump go bad from just sitting there?

Like I said sometimes they just lose their prime. I had to re-start mine a handful of times like 5-6 times before it came up. There was never any rod knock or lifter noise so I know that it at least had some leftover oil in those areas and as long as you dont rev it and just let it idle you should be ok to try that.

 

[teamo2t]

To answer twicks69:
I bought this car this summer... I just replaced the timing belt and balance shaft belt. Balance shaft is still in. I know that perhaps I was being optimistic, but the guy I bought the car from told me that he had just replaced the timing belt, water pump and oil pump less than 10k ago. The car has 85k miles. When I removed the T belt it looked new (no broken or worn teeth) and the water pump was definitly new. I replace the T belt and Water pump anyway but I did not want to mess with the oil pump. I figured it must also be new... It was a moment of retardedness on my part perhaps... I am pretty sure the oil pump is OEM.

I have not used a mechcanical gauge yet... I plan on doing this on Saturday when I get some time... I checked the oil pressure sender connection and everything is OK.

Oil filter is new, and oil filter housing oiling bolt is good.

If I have to change that oil pump now... I may just beat myself over the head with my torque wrench...

 

[twicks69]

Well, I guess I will wait until you check for pressure using the mechanical gauge before posting anything else. There is only so much it could be.


Like BISHLVR said, it could be as easy as needing to crank it some more to regain prime. Just remember to unplug the ignition and fuel injectors when priming so you don't flood your engine.


Good luck,

 

[teamo2t]

Okay, I took BISHILVR's advice... First I primed the system again... Cranked it over about 5 time for about 8 seconds each time. Then I started the car (with no oil pressaure!). I let it run between 5-10 seconds and shut off. I started it again... and again... and again... four times... No change... no oil pressure! I love my DSM!

Any way, I went to AUTO ZONE and NAPA to get a mechcanical oil pressure gauge... no luck! So, today I will be ordering an oil pressure gauge from extreme PSI and installing it ASAP! I tried to get an oil pan gasket and no luck... it seems that everything DSM is special order at these auto parts places!

Any way, at this point I am thinking oil pump... I thought I was done with a project and its only the begining... its the DSM way...

 

[T is for TURBO]

You can, if you want, hook up the mechanical gauge (outside the car were you can see it) take the t-belt off and balance shaft belt off and run the oil pump with an electric drill. While doing this, watch the mech. oil gauge and see if it moves at all. With a 18V drill (about have a charge left) I was able to get about 25 psi with balance shaft removed. So I would suggest using a drill you can plug into the wall... If you don't get any oil pressure, you probably have a more serious problem.
Good luck
-Shawn

 

[teamo2t]

More serious than the oil pump... you've got to be kidding me... Tell me I misunderstood!

 

[T is for TURBO]

you did misunderstand... I meant more serious than "loosing your prime"

It wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the front case off as your oil gears may be going bad.

 

[teamo2t]

Long live the DSM! At least while it can... I will probably work on this over the weekend... I was hoping that life would be a bit simpler for me... guess not. Are there any more ideas?
I keep asking myself why the oil pump would just go bad for no reason... then I remember, DSM's don't need a reason...

 

[Raph]

I have a question. Did you by any chance connect your (T´eed in) to where your oil pressure switch goes? that would cause the oil light . (Ive had a simular problem before, but the Oil light came on during the test drive.)

 

[BISHILVR]

What is in your pan for oil? I have seen oil that has lucas in it actually become so thick that it clogs the oil strainer up and wont allow a prime. Since its cold out maybe try some new oil, something like 10w-40 or even some 5w-40 just until you can get a prime and some oil pressure. I find it hard to swallow that the oil pump just went for no reason while it was sitting.

 

[teamo2t]

BISHLIVR- Castrol Syntech 10w-30. I agree with you that it is hard to believe that the oil pump would have just gone bad for no apparent reason. I plan on removing the oil pan to see if there is any blockage or evidence of damage to the oil pump. I am waiting for an oil pan gasket to come in. I hate leaving things half done...

Raph- What T? I have not yet installed the Mechanical oil pressure gauge. I am going by the oil light and the electronic (factory) oil gauge.

 

[Mike G]

Was your car sitting flat on the tires on the ground or still on jack stands? Also, did you replace the oil filter before attempting your new start up? If so, did you fill the filter prior to installing it? It seems these units take a while for the oil pressure to come up. We just did a 16g upgrade to our 2g and the pressure took a while to build. I had pulled the plugs to reduce engine friction and we cranked on it for a few rounds, then installed everything and it still took three cycles of start/run/shut down before we had solid factory guage pressure.

Just a few $.02's --Mike

 

[shaunman1979]

I thought the factory didnt put a gasket on the oil pan on a 2g. Just used rtv or somthing to that affect.