No fuel while starting...

[1GTSiAWD]

OK, here goes... I replaced my stock exhaust, and in the process I dropped a wrench and grounded out the alternator. When I tried to start it when I was done the car started, but ran like shit and stalled. Now I cant get it started again. I blew the 80 amp alternator fuse, and replaced it. The fuel rail has pressure, but it seems like the injectors aren't firing as the plugs aren't getting that wet. I pulled the ecu and checked for power according to the pin-out on the vfaqs, and the pin labeled "power" gets nothing with the key on or off. The pin labeled "constant 12v power" didn't have power until I replaced the fuse. I am at a loss. I have the repair manual, but haven't been able to find anything as of yet.
I have pulled a plug on one injector and while firing it has between 5-6 volts. I have also checked all fuses that I have found (under hood drivers/passengers, and inside drivers leg)

 

[92redman]

You have the manual, just look up the MFI diagram and find the ecu pin that doesn't have power. follow that circuit up to find the fuse that you may have missed. Did you check the fuse in the fusible on the battery post?

 

[1GTSiAWD]

Yeah, I checked those fuses. I will continue to look through the schematics and see what I cn find. I was hoping to get quick resolution from someone who has has the problem in the past.

 

[1GTSiAWD]

No one has had this happen? I checked the ECU for codes tonight, and it wasn't reporting any.... just the short beaps reporting all is well

 

[1GTSiAWD]

Anyone know of a way to test the ECU? I have some people who seem to think that may be the root of all of my troubles.

 

[steve]

The basic test is turn the ignition switch to run. Look to see if the Check Engine Light comes on for 5 seconds. Look at the stock boost gauge goes to 0. If those don't happen then the ECU isn't starting up.

Steve

 

[92redman]

If you have a DVOM with duty cycle you can check the injector circuit while cranking. Also you say you have fuel pressure at the rail, but how much pressure do you have? With 40psi in the rail, it should spray out with some force when the lines are opened. Can you hear the MPI really click when you turn the key on?

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

On a no start, let's isolate if fuel or fire. Bearing mind of safety spray some carb cleaner into the intake while cranking and see if it tries to start. If it does it's fuel, if not it's fire. If you have fuel pressure and you have determined it's fuel, then take a 12 volt test light and with key on engine off, KOEO probe the positive pin on your injectors. If it lights up you have at least that much. If not check your engine fuse. If you have the 12 volts and the injectors aren't working take your light and hook it to the positive post on your battery. Now crank engine over with the probe on the negative side you should see flashing. This tells you the PCM "powertrain control module" is doing its job. If not then you have a drive circuit problem. Also listen to the injectors while cranking. You should hear a sharp clicking sound while cranking. Use a mechanics stethescope or a thin screwdriver which you have to your ear. Post your findings. Good Luck

 

[1GTSiAWD]

OK, I drilled/tapped the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter last night and installed a valve and gauge. I checked the pressure according to the manual and here are the results:

Cranking normal = 29 PSI untill I stop cranking, then it goes to 36 PSI
Cranking without the vaccum line on the fpr (stock) = same as before

According to the manual, this tells me that the fpr is bad, but I don't think that would cause it to not start. Also, the book says to doo these tests at curb idle, kinda hard to do when it won't start!

As far as the other stuff, not sure what a DVOM is, is the MFI relay right under the resistor pack on the firewall? I will be getting a noid light today to check the injector harnesses.

I attempted to spray starting fluid in intake to test the fuel theory, but still no starting.

Also, what do you mean by KOEO?

 

[1GTSiAWD]

Update....

1. I got a noid light, and all of the harnesses pulse, so good there.
2. I replaced the plugs...just in case.
3. I used a stethescope, and I can hear the injectors firing.
4. The fuel pressure reads as above stated no matter what i try (plugging the return line, or plugging the vacuum line fcrom the fpr)

This is leading me to believe that it is either a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump, right thinking or no?

 

[1GTSiAWD]

Tonight I will check the layout of the wires, they should be correct though. I will also attempt to check the timing. Another thought that I will check is that the exhaust may be plugged with something from shipping. I have a friend that may have a spare CAS I can try. Other than than I am out of ideas. I will also pick up a fuel filter as it probably needs changed anyway.

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

OK, I drilled/tapped the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter last night and installed a valve and gauge. I checked the pressure according to the manual and here are the results:

Cranking normal = 29 PSI untill I stop cranking, then it goes to 36 PSI
Cranking without the vaccum line on the fpr (stock) = same as before

According to the manual, this tells me that the fpr is bad, but I don't think that would cause it to not start. Also, the book says to doo these tests at curb idle, kinda hard to do when it won't start!

As far as the other stuff, not sure what a DVOM is, is the MFI relay right under the resistor pack on the firewall? I will be getting a noid light today to check the injector harnesses.

I attempted to spray starting fluid in intake to test the fuel theory, but still no starting.

Also, what do you mean by KOEO?

Three things are required for an engine to run. Fuel and air, compression and spark at the right time. If these three things are met it will run.


If you sprayed starting fluid into the intake and it did not start then one of two things exist. You have no fire, or your timing belts are way off.

DVOM= Digital Volt Ohm Meter. Or your standard digital multimeter.

Having injector pulses is a good thing. At least you know your PCM is recognizing your crank signal.

I would check for spark, and compression. Verify that the timing belt marks are good to go. I hate to ask all these questions, but remember I cannot see or hear your engine.
Give us the specifics of your findings, Spark, compression, timing belt marks, 12 volts at the coil pack, and igniter etc. For these you will need a schematic. Post your findings

Good Luck