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Newb/Sleeper Q's

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rEclipserGST

Supporting Member
1,700
56
Nov 17, 2007
Columbus, Ohio
I drive a 1995 Eclipse GST with 90,000 miles on it. Im very curious on which turbo will bolt onto my existing manifold. Im looking to upgrade my turbo to produce more power. Im lookin to make 300hp. I need to know what turbo can give me that AND if my motor can handle that on stock internals. I also would like to know the max psi i can push with out damaging anything.

Things i want to upgrade:
Turbo
Intercooler
Front Bumper
Head Lights
Fuel Pump
Fuel Injectors

I currently have a SAFC and a Blitz boost Controller.
Thank you for any and all your help in advance. ;)
 
Do you want a sleeper turbo or sleeper overall set up, be more specific...

A MHI evo3 16g is a great turbo for beginners and is more than capable of reaching your HP goal on pump gas.
Something like a FP SL2 18G would get your to that goal much easier and the 16g could bore after having it long enough. Starting a little bigger ( after supporting mods are done first ) isnt a bad idea, gives more room to grow.

The MAFT helps but makes it harder to tune, I wouldnt tune off of one of those alone.
Dsmlink, aem or a ecu chip is the only route id ever steer anyone as far as tuning;
but with a good tuner, not too big injectors, and or good octane gas safc will be sufficient for your goals.

Im guessing you want to swap to the 2gb front bumper?
Get a front mount and you can lightly paint it black for the sleeper effect. ( Mines is done that way.)

Im sure any questions you have are covered somewhere in this forums archives and you just have to use the search tool.
 
A Maf-t is not at all required to get you to your goal. Neither is an IC upgrade.

16g, mbc at 18psi, fuel pump, fuel management (afc, dsmlink, whatever), i/c piping (upper/lower), turbo-back exhaust 2.5" or greater, bov that holds this pressure (1g bov will do), air filter, ported o2 housing, and a ported exhaust manifold will net you about 310hp on 93 octane. At least this is what got me there years ago when I was starting out.

Edit: I assumed since the poster did not specify that his goal was 300hp at the crank. The above mods netted 262whp, so guesstimating 300-310hp at the crank.
 
evo3, with 18psi.

18psi on one set up likely will not equal 18 psi on a different setup.
Thats too blunt, and can easily mislead someone.

For the average joe; running around with his self tuned daily,
on regular pump gas; it generally takes more than 18psi on a 16g to crack 300awhp
unless were talking about the setup being extensively modded.

Dont believe me; and you buy into all the hype well do a search for yourself...
 
http://http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=tech

That link should help and let me be the 1st one to say it but people are going to flame on you if you don't search for your answers as questions like yours has been answered many times already. :thumb:

As for your car, my car is similar, except it's a 1996. I ran with:

-Evo3 16g turbo (bolts to the stock manifold)
-Denso 660 injectors
-255 Walbro Fuel pump w/Afpr, you can get away with a Walbro 190
-Greddy 24r FMIC
-SAFC will do for you your goals, of course DSMLINK would be better, depends on your budget
-Upgraded 3" full exhaust system
-Boost guage
-Stock internals will be fine below 20 psi I believe but I would recommend getting ARP bolts (better safe than sorry)
-Soon to be installed Southbend OFE clutch over stock

-With all those mods on a stock clutch, I dynoed close to 298 whp on my fwd gst car. It's a common build but it's good enough for me.
 
What is a Sleeper Turbo??? Im going for a sleeper car, looks stock but rags on a V8 mustang. Yea, that GST right there! I specially need to know about Which TURBO's will be good and bolt directly up to my manifold? Will i need to upgrade my manifold? Is there anyway to keep the stock Exhaust, but have a 2.5 or 3 inch Test Pipe?

I hear alot of ppl say 16g or Big 16g or even 14b. Which is better and More reliable to get?
I dont want to have to replace my turbo AGAIN because it burnt or something like that.

I asked about the test pipe because I dont want a loud exhaust. I want most of the noise coming from my turbo or bov. So any suggestions on the sexiest or best performing bov? I hear HKS or GREDDY. I myself have been leaning towards GREDDY. And YES i am going to recirculate the air released.

& 660s? My friends and i were thinkin 550s. Which is a solid choice? I only want to upgrade once.

& im on the Hunt for a data logger as we speak. So we can scratch that down as well.
 
What is a Sleeper Turbo??? Im going for a sleeper car, looks stock but rags on a V8 mustang. Yea, that GST right there! I specially need to know about Which TURBO's will be good and bolt directly up to my manifold? Will i need to upgrade my manifold? Is there anyway to keep the stock Exhaust, but have a 2.5 or 3 inch Test Pipe?

I hear alot of ppl say 16g or Big 16g or even 14b. Which is better and More reliable to get?
I dont want to have to replace my turbo AGAIN because it burnt or something like that.

I asked about the test pipe because I dont want a loud exhaust. I want most of the noise coming from my turbo or bov. So any suggestions on the sexiest or best performing bov? I hear HKS or GREDDY. I myself have been leaning towards GREDDY. And YES i am going to recirculate the air released.

& 660s? My friends and i were thinkin 550s. Which is a solid choice? I only want to upgrade once.

& im on the Hunt for a data logger as we speak. So we can scratch that down as well.


Ok well sleeper turbo meaning it looks like the stock turbo when you pop the hood
i.e. 16g, 14b, T28 etc. Any MHI turbo will bolt right up, and even larger turbos can still be designed to bolt right up you just have to look in the right places.

Dont waist your money getting a 14b IMO, just go straight to evo316g or bigger.
A logger should always be a first thing on the list of things to get.

There is no best performing bov, it depends on how you are using it and how much boost.
Personally I think the Tial bovs is the best IF you can vent.
At the level your going to run Id just get a stock 1g bov and do the GUS mod on it.

550s would be easier to tune with your safc, 660s would just provide more fuel but make it harder
to tune due to the increase of timing youll get running them.
It will increase timing due to you hiding air flow to compensate for the bigger injectors. Not a good thing on pump gas when your trying to run some decent boost.

550s will be enough for a 16g sized turbo but if you ever want more you'd have to upgrade again.
660s may give you some headaches getting a good knock free tune. And more head aches if you blow your motor.
I say get 550s.

My car is a sleeper car btw.
If you want to copy cat my set up for sleeperness then paint your FMIC black and get an Electric Exhaust cutout installed on a 3in DP while running stock exhaust and stock muffler back after the cutout. ( Well i actually ran 2.5 pipe after the cutout into the stock muffler)


So when cutout is open its running Open DP off a 3in DP.
When its closed it quiet and stock exhaust sounding. Oh and you can keep your cat
if you did it this way so that your not putting out too much emissions when your cutout is closed at least.

If you do get a cutout make sure you can get away with it in your state.
YouTube - Reverend's Sti exhaust cutout
QTP Website

Now im not trying to turn your thread into a cutout thread, Im just giving you the info.
Go do some searches if your interested in that.
 
Wow, thatz nice. BUT how much is that exhause setup going to cost?

Did you read the post?

You basically leave your stock cat back and muffler. No expensve there.

You buy the electric cutout.The price of them is in the link.
Or you can pick one up from DMH performance for even cheaper
( I got mines from DMH. They have a website too, google it.)

Then you buy a 3in Mandrel DP.
You then weld the cutout onto the new 3in DP and install. Voila your done.
Stock exhaust with cutout closed, Open DP ( max power ) when cutouts open.

Thats all there is to it...
 
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