New to the scene but i have some problems

[baks2]

I just brought a 1997 rs only problem is that it drives but after a few minutes or so it will stall after i stop and try to take off in first and won't start for a couple minutes later also i think it idles funny it starts at 1k then goes to 1.5k and back to 1k and the alternator belt squeals when it starts but not while it is running

here the things i plan on replacing on soon 1.crank and cam sensor 2. clean throttle body or replace it 3.check vacuum lines 4.replace alternator and belt

now is there anything else i should do while I'm in there i also would like to clean up my engine bay area any suggestion
s

 

[2g4me]

I wouldnt worry about the cam or crank sensors, it obviously runs, it wouldnt if they didnt work. Sounds like your alternator is fine, unless it dies on its own while running and you have to be jumped, u just need to tighten the belt so it'll stop squealing or just replace the belt if tightening doesnt work. Start it up and take the Neg. cable off the battery, if it doesnt die, then the alternator is fine. Take the car to an auto store tho and have them test it to make sure its producing the correct voltage.
As far as the dying and not starting, id check the coolant temp sensor, thats typically whats bad that will keep the car from starting after having been ran. As for the funny idle, check all vacuum hoses, make sure there all connected, you may need to adjust the BISS (basic idle set screw, not sure if the RS has one tho), the ISC (idle speed controller) may be faulty too.

 

[2GJeremy]

are you sure the squeak isnt caused from the tensioner pulley? just had mine replaced and it fixed the squeak on my car. also check your injectors. i got a 2g RS too so if yoy hve any questions just ask

 

[gusu]

I'm not positive but I believe the 2g nt has a ISC on it, I'd bet its that. If not it is the 2g NT equivalent.

*edit* The 420a uses a IAC. Couldn't find out if it was all the years or not though.

 

[baks2]

I wouldnt worry about the cam or crank sensors, it obviously runs, it wouldnt if they didnt work. Sounds like your alternator is fine, unless it dies on its own while running and you have to be jumped, u just need to tighten the belt so it'll stop squealing or just replace the belt if tightening doesnt work. Start it up and take the Neg. cable off the battery, if it doesnt die, then the alternator is fine. Take the car to an auto store tho and have them test it to make sure its producing the correct voltage.
As far as the dying and not starting, id check the coolant temp sensor, thats typically whats bad that will keep the car from starting after having been ran. As for the funny idle, check all vacuum hoses, make sure there all connected, you may need to adjust the BISS (basic idle set screw, not sure if the RS has one tho), the ISC (idle speed controller) may be faulty too.

aight thanks though but it does run then die then wait a few minutes and then die as soon as it gets moving and it start again after a few and dies again this is how i had to get it home but i like i said it is only after i come to a stop and shift to 1st and start moving

 

[2g4me]

He says the squealing goes away after its started, sounds like a typical loose belt issue, if it was the tensioner pulley it would keep squealing and get worse with higher rpm's, my timing belt tensioner on my GSX squeaks consistently and is f*****g annoying. I highly doubt injectors will cause his idling problem, it wont go up and down like he stated, it'll idle low and idle like garbage. Although it could be a possibility as to why it wont start back up when it dies, or a bad fuel filter, theres a lot of reasons that could cause that.

aight thanks though but it does run then die then wait a few minutes and then die as soon as it gets moving and it start again after a few and dies again this is how i had to get it home but i like i said it is only after i come to a stop and shift to 1st and start moving

Auto or 5spd?

 

[baks2]

5 speed

 

[2g4me]

Thats is odd then, seems like a fuel problem. Check the fuel filter, if its decent cheap then just replace it. Check the screen on the fuel pump too, its a pain ya but you never know, fuel pump itself maybe bad too but it is sounding like a fuel issue. Easiest thing to check tho would be the injectors, if you have a friend or know someone with the same car or a friend with a neon or avenger, something with a 420a then swap injectors and see if that fixes it, i doubt it tho from your discription.

 

[Timothyj94]

Go get your codes read at an auto part store, make sure its not ## coolant temp sensor.

Check your vacuum, see if your timing is off.

Check your vacuum line on FPR if ## fpr is good or not.

if i think of more ill add

 

[DCGuerrette89]

Start it up and take the Neg. cable off the battery, if it doesnt die, then the alternator is fine.

umm i wouldnt do that, yes it does work but wen u hook it back up u can fry your CPU or othere senors and computers in the car from the voltage spike when hooking it back up...to test the alternator get a volt meter hook one end to the battery negative and hook the other to the power wire going to the alternator (the big fat red wire bolted to the alternator) and it should read about 14.7 volts wen running and 12.6 when car is off

 

[2g4me]

Are you even throwing any codes??

 

[baks2]

nah no cel

 

[baks2]

thanks i'll try when i wake up in the mourning even though it is like 6am

 

[CrawlinZX14]

You may also want to check your crank pully. I had a nasty squeel when I first bought my talon, it ended up being the isolator in the crank pulley came apart and the surface the belt sat on fell off after about 3 days. Lucky for me it was in my driveway, and there was a place that had a used one locally for it, but it made a nasty noise that really didnt change. Easy way to test it is take tension off the pulley and try to wiggle it. You can also pull it off and inspect it, and its only 4 bolts and its off. As for the stalling, I would start with a boost leak test and see if your recirc tube is leaking anywhere. if it is, fix or replace it. Then from there I would look to your MAF. Because you are saying its only happening when you were on throttle and come off throttle. After the maf, I would check your WG and BOV just to make sure they are opening correctly. the idle surge could just be a FIAV going bad. Try adjusting your BISS since your base idle should be around 800rpm. When warm mine runs at 700rpm and cold starts it idles from 1k- 1500 due to surge.

 

[Timothyj94]

You may also want to check your crank pully. I had a nasty squeel when I first bought my talon, it ended up being the isolator in the crank pulley came apart and the surface the belt sat on fell off after about 3 days. Lucky for me it was in my driveway, and there was a place that had a used one locally for it, but it made a nasty noise that really didnt change. Easy way to test it is take tension off the pulley and try to wiggle it. You can also pull it off and inspect it, and its only 4 bolts and its off. As for the stalling, I would start with a boost leak test and see if your recirc tube is leaking anywhere. if it is, fix or replace it. Then from there I would look to your MAF. Because you are saying its only happening when you were on throttle and come off throttle. After the maf, I would check your WG and BOV just to make sure they are opening correctly. the idle surge could just be a FIAV going bad. Try adjusting your BISS since your base idle should be around 800rpm. When warm mine runs at 700rpm and cold starts it idles from 1k- 1500 due to surge.

Dude, op says its a rs, non turbo

 

[shockracer]

Rent or buy a fuel pressure test kit, sounds like when my 420a's fuel pump was dieing.

 

[empie1]

Wow. It's scary reading some of these suggestions. Nothing like getting advice from Internet mechanics. Op you don't have a biss screw so you can cross that off the list of misinformation.

 

[2GJeremy]

.... back to the subject at hand..

like i said bud, check the injectors. ol guy a couple posts above me said it sounds like a fuel problem. having the same car, the injectors could be tuned wrong or could possibly be just faulty.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Wow. It's scary reading some of these suggestions. Nothing like getting advice from Internet mechanics. Op you don't have a biss screw so you can cross that off the list of misinformation.

So sorry bud, didnt pay attention to the NA aspect of it. Guess since most people on here with these problems are turbo cars, its almost second nature to assume turbo. Next, you can still adjust your idle speed. And its still a Base Idle set screw. Thus BISS. its just not in the same place. For fk sake, even carb'd motors have an idle set screw. So im sorry if the term BISS is so misinformative.

Next, as suggested, check your fuel pressure and your AFM. Since im sure I will hear how your car doesnt have an AFM every car does that isnt carb'd. Its called an Air Flow Meter. Weather its a MAF, AFM, or MAP, they are all air flow meters. If your ECU is not reading your air intake properly, you can have similar issues to that. Where touching the throttle either stalls the car or makes it nasty rough. Mainly because the air is not being metered correctly and its either getting to much or not enough fuel.

You can also get a noid tester to make sure your injectors are firing correctly. But I doubt that would be your problem.

 

[fabian95tsi]

Since this happens as your driving for a while and it needs to sit and it will start back up wouldn't that imply that something is getting hot and causing it to shut off maybe an ignition coil or something ignition related? Now do not burn me on this but i have worked on many hondas and they are notorious for ignition coils heating up and causing what the op is experiencing.

 

[JusMX141]

Removed all off-topic nonsensical discussions and flaming; infractions handed out.

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To everyone else, have a wonderful day.

 

[baks2]

Since this happens as your driving for a while and it needs to sit and it will start back up wouldn't that imply that something is getting hot and causing it to shut off maybe an ignition coil or something ignition related? Now do not burn me on this but i have worked on many hondas and they are notorious for ignition coils heating up and causing what the op is experiencing.

i doesn't do it while i'm over like 30mhp only on take off or low speed
also i found random stuff disconnect and i don't know where they hook up to

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the red hose

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the cord in the middle

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and this i have know idea where this would connect to

 

[Trusteclipse307]

the red hose is the overflow tube for the coolant if im not mistaken

 

[baks2]

the red hose is the overflow tube for the coolant if im not mistaken

does it hook to any thing

help asap i think i found the problem but i don't know how to fix there is oil in my spark plug holes how would this happen

 

[Trusteclipse307]

no but it should be longer then it is