New Engine Mount or Not?

[erald01]

Well i have never had to deal with my engine mounts before but i noticed that the upper left one (by the driver's side) is REALLY worn out causing the engine to shift a tiny bit. Now my question is..I want to buy a new mount but i was wondering if i need to buy the poly inserts or do i buy the whole bushing made of polyurathane? If i buy just one would that effect the drivability of the car? One of my friends told me to just buy the stock OEM bushing and just get the inserts...does this make sense? If i want the whole bushing made of polyurathane where would i buy one? I seen the inserts but haven't seen the whole bushing one yet.

 

[turbodsm_125]

personally i would just go with the whole bushing. that is what i have on my 1g and i am quite happy with it. i would check prothane to see if they hae it. there is anothe company that sells them, however i cant remember there name, starts with a p i think..

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Prothane or Energy suspension make poly mounts. I would just get the full prothane kit and call it a day, it's well worth the investment.

 

[DGajre777]

Energy Suspension make lower mounts only for 2Gs.
RRE I/C Pipe Installation Instructions

You'll have to look at Prothanes to replace your driver side side mount or get another OEM one.

Your other option is this - Eliminate Wheel Hop with Filled Motor Mounts

 

[erald01]

How hard is it to change the engine mounts and to do the inserts? I'm going with the prothane kit which comes with the two inserts and two whole bushings.

 

[DGajre777]

How hard is it to change the engine mounts and to do the inserts? I'm going with the prothane kit which comes with the two inserts and two whole bushings.

The driver side and front lower engine mounts are easy. The rear lower mount is a pain to get to and is easier to replace when you have the tranny out. I suggest that you just install the driver side and front lower insert for now, and whenever you change your clutch next, install the tranny mount and the rear lower insert.

 

[No_Skillz]

The driver side and front lower engine mounts are easy. The rear lower mount is a pain to get to and is easier to replace when you have the tranny out. I suggest that you just install the driver side and front lower insert for now, and whenever you change your clutch next, install the tranny mount and the rear lower insert.

If you do it with this method you need to drive extremely conservatively until you have the other mounts in. Having just the two said mounts installed creates extra movement in your other two mounts, effectively creating extra rocking movements in those areas (close to the transmission). This will cause extra wear on your transfer case and driveline parts and might cause damage depending on how hard you normally drive and how long you leave it like this.

Best to put in a little extra work (ok alot; that rear mount is a PITA) and be safe.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

If you do it with this method you need to drive extremely conservatively until you have the other mounts in. Having just the two said mounts installed creates extra movement in your other two mounts, effectively creating extra rocking movements in those areas (close to the transmission). This will cause extra wear on your transfer case and driveline parts and might cause damage depending on how hard you normally drive and how long you leave it like this.

Best to put in a little extra work (ok alot; that rear mount is a PITA) and be safe.

It's not that hard.

1. remove driver side mount and swap in poly

2. remove battery and first tray

3. Jack up the trans a little bit to take the pressure off of the bolt holding in the pass. side mount. Loosen the 4 17mm nuts on the pass mount.

4. While the driver's side mount is still out use a jack and some wood to jack up the engine from the oil pan side, this will push the driver's side of the engine up and therefore lower the pass side. If you jack the driver's side up enough, you can use a pry bar to manuever the pass mount out. Just rock the mount back and forth until it comes out, USE FORCE.

5. Do the pass mount and then bolt the pass mount first, then lower the engine and bolt in the drivers side mount.

6. jack up the front of the trans/engine slightly and unbolt the nut/bolt combo of the front mount, then unbolt the two bolts from under the car (get a socket extension with a 14mm to get to it). Sandwiche the prothanes in and put back.

7. repeat for the rear mount, but use a bottle jack or something that stands taller to jack up the rear of the trans.

 

[snowborder714]

Or some other ways to remove the rear mount:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...ar-aluminum-motor-mounts-3.html#post151553358

I used #2 (as it says in the quote that my brother made) and it was very easy. Using the 20" extension (pictures can be seen in post #117 in the above link) made it easy to do and easy on us physically since we didn't have to reach all the way in or get under the car.

 

[Supa Dexta]

He certainly doesn't need to make the jump to solid mounts with his setup. Yes you could buy only one prothane and likely be fine with it, I'd be more apt to do at least 2 at a time though (opposite sides to even it out).

 

[snowborder714]

That link I posted is just a few ways to get the rear mount out easily (just happens to be in the solid motor mount thread since that's the harder of the two to remove). I had read other people's ways on the thread, and decided to come up with an easier way. My brother had sent this way to DSMunknown so he posted the two ways he heard to help out others. I agree that solid mounts aren't necessary.

 

[erald01]

yeah i just got the prothane kit in the other day and btw i give props to summit racing for delivery wise because it literaly took two days for them to get to my place . Anyways i think i'm just gona put on the extra work and get them all done at once. Better safe than sorry. Thanx for the steps on how to do it blcknspo0ln