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New Engine...Higher Redline?

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PokinatchaPunk

20+ Year Contributor
328
5
Aug 9, 2002
Fort Walton Beach, Florida
Ok I'm sure the title is causing some people to be react like "um just because you do an engine swap doesn't mean you'll have a higher redline" Well here's the deal... I'm doing a 6bolt swap and it's a fairly built engine. Just wondering considering it's mods what should I expect for a redline after a fair month's worth of breaking in. Here's my mods

-6 Bolt Block bored 10 over
-Crank Polished
-eagle rods
-Weisco 9:0:1 pistions
-ARP Studs
-Balance Shaft removal Kit
-ARP Head Bolts
-1mm Oversize valves
-Bronze Guides
-Cometic HP Head Gasket
-Crower Springs and Retainers
-Crower "264/272" Cams

My guess is approx.... 9500
 
Hey dont mean to thread steal but...if you get retainers and valves like crowers and you hit 8500 dont you have to get an upgraded ECU??
 
you arent going to rev to 9500 on crower springs/retainers. Youll most likely need a dual spring setup. And revving to 9500rpms on a 50trim is totally pointless. 8500 is more than enough.

AND you better have ungodly sick tranny if you think your gonna shiftat 9.5k LOL
 
I'd say your set up is good for a 8500 rpm redline. I have a stock head (besides arp studs and mitsu 4 layer hg) and i've taken mine up to about 8k on rare occasions and its held up quite well. Soon i'd like to get a nice built race head so I can take advantage of my high rev shifting tranny. :thumb:
 
I'd have stock heads up to 8500 and crower springs/retainers with 1mm+ valves and 272's up to 9500 with no problems. I'm not the only one to do it.
 
Don't worry about babying your motor for an entire month. The dyno works great if you have one available.
 
Well the month estimate for the "babying" includes a new clutch going in and being worked....Plus I have the schedule of "new motor" oil changes

After....
First 20mins of running
First 500miles
Next 1000
Next 2k

Call it babying but after bending 15 valves on the old engine enbedding two into the pistons. (freek accident not stupid driving) I'd prefer not to take any chances.
 
What tranny are you running? I wouldn't even think of going past 8k on a stock tranny..
 
Don't guess as to what you want your redline to be...you need to get to a dyno, tune it in, and then see where your power band is...after that, decide how long you would like your engine to last...stress is not a linear relationship to rpm...

if I remember correctly, it is logrithmic....so, just off the seat of my pants b/c I haven't looked into this for a while, you might be creating twice as much stress at 9500 rpm as you are at 7500 rpm...

So, the more you run it up to that rpm, the less likely your motor is going to last you very long...
 
I have a buddy with a built civic hatch, he makes power till about 9800rpm. His valve seals are shot, is this a result of high revving? Also what about your timing belt at that high of rpm's?
 
pianoman said:
I have a buddy with a built civic hatch, he makes power till about 9800rpm. His valve seals are shot, is this a result of high revving? Also what about your timing belt at that high of rpm's?


Could be. Valve seats could be shot for a number of reasons. I was more concerned with the stress applied to the rotating assembly and cylinder walls...But, the valve seats are subject to a lot of pounding, and with more revs, you are applying more cycles in a short period of time...plus you are heating them up more...so your valvetrain and other related parts are probably more likely to fail quicker as well...
 
Thats what I figured, I just wanted to bring it to light as maby somthing the thread starter had not thought about, mind you, my buddys lasted one summer. What about the timing belt looping around and around at 8,000plus rpms? any trouble in that area? As far as balance and blueprinting the bottom end, I would think that would be a must for anyone looking to rev over 8k.
 
pianoman said:
Thats what I figured, I just wanted to bring it to light as maby somthing the thread starter had not thought about, mind you, my buddys lasted one summer. What about the timing belt looping around and around at 8,000plus rpms? any trouble in that area? As far as balance and blueprinting the bottom end, I would think that would be a must for anyone looking to rev over 8k.

Yep. If you want a high stress, high strung motor turbo motor that spins 9500 rpm and you plan to play around up there, be prepared. Not to say the motor can't handle it. The stock drivetrain is said to be good for up to 8500 rpm...With the proper upgrades in valvetrain, you have no problem with 9500 rpm. But how long do you want your motor to last? ;)

Me, I like to drive it, not work on it...I wouldn't expect things to last too long in a 9500 rpm motor...
 
Thanks for all the input... :thumb: Keep in mind the question was more for "random knowledge" not actual planned application. Just wanting to see what that set-up would be able to handle... Like one of the other posters said... I like to drive my car more than work on it. I plan on throwing a 50trim in there so running past 8500 would almost serve little to no purpose.
 
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