The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

New clutch car wont go in gear?(HELP!)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

solisjulian

Proven Member
82
0
Jan 5, 2013
wooddale, Illinois
Hey so i have a 1990 Mitsubishi eclipse i just put in a new clutch and it will not go into any gear unless i turn off the car and start it in gear and its grabing with clutch all the way to the floor.

I adjusted the clutch.

New Oem Master cylinder


Car wont go into gear, clutch not disenageing fully ,

bad grinding sound comeing from transmission when i push in pedel it goes away


its a stock clutch n p.p
oem tob


Idk what to do

please help
 
Sounds like you have air in your hydraulic system for the clutch. Its not disengaging. If you installed a new master or slave cylinder, you have to bleed the system some more. It can be a pain in the butt.
 
the master was changed like a month ago and it was shifting fine and now i put in a new clutch and bled everything good and the clutch was nice and stiff but when i pushed the rod back into the slave it lost pressure and is all soft agein and when the clutch was good and stiff i cant put it into gear and the clutch dosent disengage

what could cause the clutch not to disengage??
 
the master was changed like a month ago and it was shifting fine and now i put in a new clutch and bled everything good and the clutch was nice and stiff but when i pushed the rod back into the slave it lost pressure and is all soft agein and when the clutch was good and stiff i cant put it into gear and the clutch dosent disengage

what could cause the clutch not to disengage??

You didn't read the link I posted... :ohdamn:

Just skip the diagnosing part till you think you have the clutch fixed but it still has at least 10 steps of what to check.
 
You gotta keep bleeding that thing until all the air is out it may take a few times at least for me I drive it then bleed it again, that's how I do it, its a process.
 
I read it one of the bolts were my doel pins go is torqued to 35ft-lbs thats not right is it? would that be causeing this issue mabe? thank you for the link

i bleed it clean but then randomly the pedal when flat for some reason its happened twice already
 
I read it one of the bolts were my doel pins go is torqued to 35ft-lbs thats not right is it? would that be causeing this issue mabe? thank you for the link

i bleed it clean but then randomly the pedal when flat for some reason its happened twice already

You did this without the service manual?!
download it or buy it asap, its available for download if you search the forums.
 
there are many things that could be going on here not to sure about the grinding to tell you a exact answer on that. have you driven the car any in 1st gear or moved back and fourth. i know you said you adjusted the clutch are you 100% there is no air in the line or a air lock in the master. i know that sometimes we get a air lock in a new master. is the pedal soft or softer then normal? but then again you have a grinding noise that might be causing all the problems and then again it could be air that's causing the clutch not to let go and you also have grinding. i would double check with bleeding the master with a vacuum bleeder if you can get your hands on one and go from there. so people might say im stupid and you need to tear it back apart but its alot easier to double bleed. let us know what you think you know what the situation is better then us not being there. sorry if im not making any sense have a couple buddies over at the garage and been drinking since beer oclock LOL weds and thru is my weekend.
 
there are many things that could be going on here not to sure about the grinding to tell you a exact answer on that. have you driven the car any in 1st gear or moved back and fourth. i know you said you adjusted the clutch are you 100% there is no air in the line or a air lock in the master. i know that sometimes we get a air lock in a new master. is the pedal soft or softer then normal? but then again you have a grinding noise that might be causing all the problems and then again it could be air that's causing the clutch not to let go and you also have grinding. i would double check with bleeding the master with a vacuum bleeder if you can get your hands on one and go from there. so people might say im stupid and you need to tear it back apart but its alot easier to double bleed. let us know what you think you know what the situation is better then us not being there. sorry if im not making any sense have a couple buddies over at the garage and been drinking since beer oclock LOL weds and thru is my weekend.

I think you'll notice mostly everyone agree's to re bleed it. :D Its definitely part of the problem, but not the only thing most likely because the grinding is the Tob usually.
 
Thanks for the replies guys , so il try rebleeding it. but i dont get why my tob would be bad its new:( the clutch dosent let go has this ever happened to you guys?
 
i know for some reason when i went to reply it didnt show any replys so i didnt know anybody said anything until after i posted dont know if it was my end or the site being weird like it has been. sorry for being one of those repeaters we get.
 
LOL NONE...NONE of you guys asked him to check his Clutch pedal assembly for wear since it's common in 1Gs. I would check that first and if checks out OK, proceed to bleeding. report back.:thumb:
 
its more common for it to be air in the master and lines then bad pedal assembly since it worked fine before the work. not saying there not a slim chance but if your talking about common then its more common for there to be air and improper install of tob.
 
This problem is weird!

i bleed the clutch properly and then the slave its self there was no air what so ever in the hydralic assembly the pedel was nice and tight how its supposto be and stayed like that till i start the car in gear it grips with the pedel all the way in and the pedel goes flat its a weird problem

and the postition of the fork is in the middle were its supposto be and the pedel assembely is new as well


Im so bummed cause im out of money to fix the car.


any other ideas of what could cause this?


i look at my slave and when i push the pedal it engages all the way.
 
Not saying you don't know what your doing but did u by any chance put the clutch backwards? I've seen it done before :ohdamn:
 
Get your head up under the dash above the gas pedal and look at the slave rod, then press the clutch pedal in with 1 hand.Pay close attention to the slave rod! It should move at exactly the same time you press on the clutch pedal with your hand.If it doesn't the cam and or shaft is worn out and you have too much play, in other words the slave cylinder rod isn't starting to press in until the clutch pedal is half way down towards the floor and ends up only pushing half of the needed fluid and it feels just like air in the line ;)

Look at the last post on the page in the link below, #4 and #14 are a weak point and could be your issue...A quick test/fix is to get a 14mm medium deep socket up in there on that nut (#17 on that pic), pull the clutch pedal up as high as it will go and tighten down that nut.Then try the clutch, if it helped or works be prepared to rebuild the pedal assembly.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/473521-hydraulic-clutch-questions.html#post153413591
 
press clutch pedal all the way down and let go. then grab pedal with your hand and pull up, if it pulls up at all, its time for a new pedal assembly
 
whats the position of your clutch fork? also when you bleed it do you bleed it and then the slave itself?

+1 after installing my clutch, about 5 months my car did the same thing. Replaced the TOB Again and clutch fork, been running like a champ for more than 2 years now.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top