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GVR-4 New Clutch cant get into gear.

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cslegacy

Probationary Member
4
0
Apr 22, 2018
melbourne, Australia
Hi Guys/Girls,

I have just bought a vr4 Galant E39a 1992 in Australia i have had to replace the clutch and the tail shaft/center shaft bearings to make the car legal. After putting it all back together it wont go into gear when the car is running.

I have pulled the gearbox off 3 times to try fix this.

Replaced Clutch Master cylinder and slave master,my pedal assembly has no play
Shimmed fork.
flywheel skimmed
Pedal is not soft feels great. im certain it has nothing to do with my hydraulics

Could it have anything to do with my tail shaft or my shifter bracket? i used it to lift the gearbox it shifts perfect when cars not running

When i put my foot right down the clutch it makes a slight weird sound like a metal shatter.
 
Post a picture of where the clutch fork is positioned in the trans window:
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99% of the time, if the car won't go into gear while running, the clutch isn't disengaging. Your priority should be figuring out why the clutch isn't disengaging.
 
Hi Guys/Girls,

I have just bought a vr4 Galant E39a 1992 in Australia i have had to replace the clutch and the tail shaft/center shaft bearings to make the car legal. After putting it all back together it wont go into gear when the car is running.

I have pulled the gearbox off 3 times to try fix this.

Replaced Clutch Master cylinder and slave master,my pedal assembly has no play
Shimmed fork.
flywheel skimmed
Pedal is not soft feels great. im certain it has nothing to do with my hydraulics

Could it have anything to do with my tail shaft or my shifter bracket? i used it to lift the gearbox it shifts perfect when cars not running

When i put my foot right down the clutch it makes a slight weird sound like a metal shatter.
I'm certain.....can you please describe how?
Flywheel skimmed. What does that mean? Cut to what depth?
Do you know how to check a pedal assembly for wear?
Assuming your clutch fork sits where it supposed to about the only thing left is hydraulics. Did you use the correct slave? Did you know there is more than one available with different piston sizes? Parts stores are notorious for getting it wrong. Thats why I prefer oem parts.
 
I'm certain because I have spent days and days on bleeding and sealing parts focusing on the hydrolics and the slave is working as it could

I just dropped the flywheel off to a machine shop that the skim the top a small amount I don't no how much.

Yes I have checked for wear I pulled up on the clutch pedal.

My gearbox does not have dowel pins could that be the problem if it's a few mm off?
 
first thing is always make sure you have all the air out . next thing is if you installed a stronger pressure plate then you are going to have to adjust the clutch master rod cause it's going to take more effort to release the clutch .
 
I just dropped the flywheel off to a machine shop that the skim the top a small amount I don't no how much.
Thats a problem. Step height is very important and specific to what brand clutch.
Yes I have checked for wear I pulled up on the clutch pedal.
That isn't how you check. Thats just the first step. Grab the pedal and the lever at the clevis and try and move them relative to each other.
 
Ok I will check the pedal the right way. The clutch pedal engages right at the top of the pedal not at the bottom so wouldn't that mean the pedal is ok because I'm getting alot of travel
 
Ok I will check the pedal the right way. The clutch pedal engages right at the top of the pedal not at the bottom so wouldn't that mean the pedal is ok because I'm getting alot of travel
How would you know when it engages you cant shift. You mean you can "feel" it? No. Thats not how you check.
 
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