New car alot of questions

[pdc200302]

I just got ahold of a 98 gsx a month ago with "Crankwalk". Well come to find out someone put the wrong main bearings in the car, no thrust bearing.WTF I have had everything looked at by a machine shop and its all still in good condition. So just to have a running car I'm throwing in a complete bearing set, and saving for the 6 bolt build that I got with the car. I also have two other 6 bolt N/T motors. I was told by the guy that the turbo was a 16g and just by searching here and over the web I say not. I will get pictures of it tomorrow but for now the only numbers on it are on the exhaust side 78-14300. The wastegate flap is also welded on the turbo but the car has no other wastegate on it. Wouldn't that let the turbo boost to max? I want to figure this out before it messes up anything. Also about the 6 bolt build, the bolt and rotating assembly I got with the car is all good but the pistons, cracked. It has already been bored 0.20 over and I don't know much about it. One of the N/T 6 bolts I have, broke the timing belt and got a valve, haven't tore it down yet. The other N/T motor only has 25000 to 30000 and still runs really good, was a crate motor for my first car. In your opinion which 6 bolt would be best to use for the GSX? I'm kinda thinking toward the stroker for the 6 bolt but that would take more time for money. Sorry so long but I just want some help with this cause I'm starting to think to much into and get lost myself.
Thanks
Phillip

 

[Dsmj89]

If the wastegate flapper was welded shut, chances are the previous owner was running an externally gated wastegate off the o2 or exhaust manifold.
I wouldn't even bother with neither 6 bolt blocks, they don't have a few things the turbo blocks came with such as oil squirters, the fuel injectors, etc.
I would just save a little more and when you have enough money racked up get yourself a complete 6 bolt block or a 97-99 7 bolt if you want more of a direct drop in and rebuild it while the motor is out.

 

[pdc200302]

Well The guy i got the car off of said he was running it just the way it is setup. When it quit on him he had it towed a shop and that is where i picked it up. Well i dont know but have heard that some of the n/t blocks had the oil squirter ports but were just blocked off. I would of course change the cams, injectors, oil filter housing, the throttle body and other stuff over to the turbo parts. That is only if the motors have the ports for the squirters. And here are the pictures of the turbo Pictures by pdc200302 - Photobucket

 

[rich3389]

If the wastegate was welded shut, you would have to run the external gate off the manifold, not the 02 housing.

 

[GS ice T]

External gate on the o2 would give you madddd boost creep I'd only recommend that if you enjoy frying turbos or detonating engines.

As for the bearings, they switch to the new 3piece thrust bearing and washers in late 97 so you would have to get those for your mains. It's still debated why we get crankwalk but I'm a strong believer that nitriding your crank will either fix the crankwalk issue or greatly prolong it. Not only does it double the cranks hardness, it also makes it less abrassive so it doesnt wear down the bearings as fast for whatever reason makes it do so prematurely.

After I spun a bearing, I bought a new crank for 250 and sent it off to be nitrided and micropolished for 150 and after 30k miles it still had the hazy look from the treatment and the bearings still looked new to me. It's just too bad nitriding doesn't stop balancer belts from snapping

 

[pdc200302]

Well if the car was run this way it would be putting max boost into the motor right? In your opinion what are my options right now on the turbo and wastegate deal? I mean it wouldnt be a good idea to run the car this way right?

 

[GS ice T]

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Finally finished my awd swap

Without a working wastegate to allow exhaust to bypass the turbine wheel, yes boost would increase until something blows at WOT. Unless you're going to be watching your boost at all times and control it from going to high with the throttle (not recommended), your going to need to get a manifold with an external gate or get another turbo that has an unwelded internal gate.

It's hard for me to tell what turbo that is with weld over the numbers but it looks very similar to my 20g which also has the wastegate welded shut but I have a external gate.

 

[pdc200302]

I did get the car running two days ago. but now I'm working on idle problems, which I say are due to sitting and not running. But on the turbo I was looking around and found a super 16g and super 20g dont recall where but the turbo is very similar to the super 16g, but I was thinking would it be possible to cut the welds out cause the waste gate flap is set inside the turbo and in my mind the piece welded on would just stop the flap from opening. so if I took the welds off and the piece out then wouldnt I gain the internal gate back in most cases? I also have a bad power transistor that is in control of the coil pack for 2 and 3. I also have two other choices with the motor cause I know with just putting bearings in the motor wont last long due to already walking, so I have 2 6 bolt n/t motors(complete nothing missing) and a 6 bolt turbo block, rods, crank. I was thinking about taking one of the n/t motors and opening it up to change the pistons and doing a slight rebuilt on it and seeing about the oil squirters(have heard some blocks had the holes just were blocked off), OR taking the block and getting pistons and using the 2g head after drilling the head bolt holes out. Just wanting someone else to give me ideas cause Im . Need outside opinion please. Thanks
Phillip

 

[GS ice T]

I'd think in order to grind off all the weld so the wastegate can open again it might not be able to seal like it once did and end up leaking. Although that is better than overboosting. I'd go ahead and just go with a manifold with an external gate since the internal gate is already welded.

As for the engine, I don't know what to tell you man. I'm stuck on the 7bolt. After all the times my motors needed rebuilds, crankwalk has yet to be a reason. So all I can say is I still have that nitrided crank sittin in the shop if you decide to not go 6bolt.

 

[pdc200302]

Well I'm just going toward the 6 bolt cause I say the crankwalk issue will come back and then its just like shooting a dead horse and pointless to redo it again. Atleast I know the 6 bolt motors are running and I know the complete history on them. I did the bearings in the car just to get in running for a short time anyways so I can get the other motor ready to drop in and still enjoy the car. But I'm having to find a power transistor first. The 6 bolt block with the 2g head would probably be the easiest way to go. I'm hoping to get someothers input on it though.