Never starts up, and Im stumped

[1gAWT]

I have a 1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD, and ever since Ive got it running and put the new wally 255 in Ive had problems. I spent about a month googling and asking local DSM guys but I have had no luck. Onto the problem...

My talon will try, try, and try to start but it just doesnt like Im having to re-prime the fuel system. I think Im re-priming it because Ive replaced the coolant temp sensor, Ive fixed O-rings in the fuel pump, and above all checked my fuel pressure (37.5). Next time I get paid I plan on putting some new wires and plugs in(NGK). I have already put new terminals on.

Do I have a faulty check valve? If so how can I fix this? Im getting seriously frusterated ### it shouldnt take 20 seconds to start a car. Not only that it has a serious idle surge when it does start, basically a cold start. It eats a bit of gas after it starts.

My gas light is always on and off so I know I have a bad sending unit.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Sounds like some work, wiring perhaps, spark fuel, compression coolant sensor bad possibly.

 

[1gAWT]

Im hoping its not too much work at this point. Wiring is good, Im running autolights and Im not putting in the new plugs and wires til I get paid. I already replaced the coolant temp sensor.

Also after started it runs great. Put newer starter in also.

 

[poonman]

If it takes 20 Seconds to start then I would check your Crank and Cam Sensor. sounds like one of them are bad or one is shorting out the other.

 

[TSIBOB]

cant go wrong with a compression test.

 

[1gAWT]

Could it really have poor compression, if it runs great otherwise?

 

[liljaywizzle85]

Spray some brake cleaner or carb cleaner into the throttle body and see if it'll start right up...

 

[ed1380]

To you have a fpr ? The 255 will overrun the stock fpr

 

[liljaywizzle85]

Thats what I was thinking, the FPR.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

His profile states he has an AFPR. Good eye there guys.

Sounds like it could be several issues. Here are a few questions for you to answer.

Did you rewire the fuel pump to run a constant 12v?
Did you change your fuel filter upon encountering this issue?
Have you removed the Fuel pressure Solenoid? (This is known to sometimes increase cranking effort)
Have you performed a Boostleak test?
Have you checked for Vacuum leaks?
Have you checked your 02 sensor?
Is the MAF tested to be good?

I'm going to go ahead and assume you have a terrible boost/vacuum leak. This will increase cranking effort, cause a vehicle to not want to run, and also cause it to devour fuel. It's a cheap and quick process. May as well get it out of the way.

 

[1gAWT]

Might have solved it earlier today. It started right up after new NGKs were put it. Stay tuned for the next update after it gets cooled down a little. I may have to find that leak if I have one (###### do) even though I boost at a constant 12-13

 

[bmxkid415]

Can never go wrong with NGKs. Did you happen to replace the wires also?

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Might have solved it earlier today. It started right up after new NGKs were put it. Stay tuned for the next update after it gets cooled down a little. I may have to find that leak if I have one (###### do) even though I boost at a constant 12-13

A boost leak won't stop you from hitting your average boost levels, unless it's a terribly bad one. What it will do, however, is make your turbo work a ton harder to get to that 12-13PSI. Your turbo may be generating 16PSI in order to get your system charged to 12PSI due to a leak.

 

[1gAWT]

Can never go wrong with NGKs. Did you happen to replace the wires also?

True, The plugs I had were jankity autolights.

A boost leak won't stop you from hitting your average boost levels, unless it's a terribly bad one. What it will do, however, is make your turbo work a ton harder to get to that 12-13PSI. Your turbo may be generating 16PSI in order to get your system charged to 12PSI due to a leak.

Bad news plugs werent the issue, so next paycheck will be going to plug wires. In the meantime Im going to do a boost leak test. How would I go about fixing a leak? If its on my TB will I have to rebuild it?

To be sure I took off my exhaust system (running DP only) and my car sputters bad after I accelerate--WHAAAAAAA, let off, AAAAA Pop,pop,pop(studder)
So Im almost 95% I have a boost leak now I guess the test will be to find it.

Could this be the check valve or o ring in the fuel pump?

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

A boost leak can be a plethora of things. From a leaking couple, a cracked hose/punctured pipe, a crack in your compressor housing, a bad check valve in your PCV, Brake Booster, seals in the TB, gaskets on the TB - etc. I can go on forever.

How do you repair it? Common sense. If you have a blown intake manifold gasket - you replace it. Do that boost leak test, I promise you'll find a few leaks.

 

[1gAWT]

Every DSM will have a leak unless its had tons of hours and an experienced builder but I found my problem. Its either the O-ring or the check valve, ball which ever you prefer. My car does not hold fuel pressure because it always must re-prime itself so I guess I was right from the start in a way. Not too shabby for a 16 year old but Im just a dumb kid.

My new predicament is that Walbro usually has people send pumps in that are suspected of being "faulty" and they are cut in half and inspected. Would Walbro give me a free pump without having me send it in? I mean its my only car and DD so I cant just send them my pump and whatnot, so should I buy a new walbro 255L

Also if anyone knew the paint codes for the grey undertone on a black 1GA Talon as well as the black that would awesome.