ECMlink Need Tuning Help, Noob

[Evo_This]

1) Its the yellow wire to guage.

2) Nope, log is 9.1-10.5, guage is 13.5-14.8

Damn...what/where should I make adjustments to now? Maybe I should just run SD

 

[snowborder714]

Have you reprogrammed the yellow wire yet, or verified that it has the same settings as the brown wire?

 

[Evo_This]

Have you reprogrammed the yellow wire yet, or verified that it has the same settings as the brown wire?

Reprogrammed?
Where n how do I do this or check the settings of the brown wire? Is it done through Link or the LC1 program?
So is the logged valve, the guage, or the DA tables correct? I can only assume that one of these must be right.

 

[Evo_This]

Ok I thought maybe this will help explain whats going on with my wideband:

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/QJJpbAjQqeI?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Evo_This]

I finally got the adapter to use the LC1 software, think I'm just going to use the Link wiki to make it a LinearWB and set it up that way off voltage. Any comments or suggestions on the video guys?

####ing great, wait over a week for an adapter that doesn't work...beautiful

 

[Evo_This]

Ok here's a new log after after of adjustment, didn't want to push it too hard yet.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Just run the yellow wire to ECMlink to log till you can program the Lc-1 to output the full 0-5v signal on both lines. as that is why the readings are not the same as Snowboarder said.

Only other comment I can say on what I see it that you may want to make the changes between you MAX and MIN Fuel and timing maps less of a drastic change. if you interpolate between those maps picking up knock it's going to cause issues I bet... .

 

[snowborder714]

Latest log is pointless as you don't get into WOT territory. I only see a max of 91% TPS. Make sure to check your TPS values with the car off and make sure you see a full 0-100% (0-5v) range. If so, then make sure you are pushing the pedal the whole way down and don't have something preventing this (e.g. floor mat).

 

[Evo_This]

Just run the yellow wire to ECMlink to log till you can program the Lc-1 to output the full 0-5v signal on both lines. as that is why the readings are not the same as Snowboarder said.

Only other comment I can say on what I see it that you may want to make the changes between you MAX and MIN Fuel and timing maps less of a drastic change. if you interpolate between those maps picking up knock it's going to cause issues I bet... .

Ok I'll try that. Question for guys with netbooks, how are you using the LC1 software without a serial port? Mine only has the 9 pin video. Tried a 15 pin to usb adpater and it started to download the drivers then gave an error message and stopped. Tried to do it again but now the pc doesn't read the adapter at all.

I read on the wiki that most just make the Max/Min match, should I do that?

 

[snowborder714]

I use the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter. Never had any issues downloading the drivers.

 

[MY1GDSM]

I read on the wiki that most just make the Max/Min match, should I do that?

Can you be more specific, I'm not sure what your asking... .

 

[Evo_This]

Latest log is pointless as you don't get into WOT territory. I only see a max of 91% TPS. Make sure to check your TPS values with the car off and make sure you see a full 0-100% (0-5v) range. If so, then make sure you are pushing the pedal the whole way down and don't have something preventing this (e.g. floor mat).

I know, I didn't floor it or ride the rpms out. TPS is working and correct. The thing is the car feels at 5k-55k what it used to at 65-7k. It picks up and roars now, of course the o2 dump doesn't help. I get that "It sounds like I need to shift" feeling n let off. I've tried four times to let it out but keep wussing out early
I will suck it up and do it but here's my next issue. Car refuses to run more than 17psi, well at least that's the most it'll run without issue. I tried to up boost to 18-20 and the car just breaks up around 4700-5200 everytime/everygear. Ideas?

 

[snowborder714]

Breaking up would lead me to try a smaller gap in the plugs and/or colder plugs.

 

[Evo_This]

I use the Keyspan USA-19HS adapter. Never had any issues downloading the drivers.

Ok thanks, quick search shows them going for $25-$30. That sound right?

Can you be more specific, I'm not sure what your asking... .

When looking at the DA tables, it says on the bottom that most people set the Min to match the Max, is this what I should do?

Breaking up would lead me to try a smaller gap in the plugs and/or colder plugs.

Ok. I cuurently have brp7es in the car, don't remember the gap. If I go down to 6es, wouldn't I then be running too cold a plug for my mods at 18-20psi? 20 is the hi boost goal for now, will run 17 on low. If that's correct then it must be my gap is wrong. It's about time to get new plugs anyway and I keep reading on the success people are having running the br series plugs. Think I'll try some br7es ones gapped to .022 and see what the car does.

 

[Evo_This]

Well consider me a believer! There were brp7es' in the car, each with a different gap ranging from .026-.034 and none of them looked too great. Swapped in the br7's but gapped at .022 I still had the break up so I went .028 and now she boosts just fine to 20psi.
Here's a question to anyone using the Greddy Pro Fec B 2: When I have the unit on low setting, the stock wastegate opens at 15psi everytime. Yet when I switch to the high setting, the wastegate doesn't open and I've seen my gauge go to 26psi without a second thought. Zeroed out all settings and it still does this. I've even set the high setting to 17psi but it jumps right pass that and peak boost warning never comes on either. Now if I set the low to 15-20psi, the wastegate opens at 15psi. Everything, wiring, vac lines, controller box has been checking n verified to be working and correct. Stumped...

 

[snowborder714]

Ok thanks, quick search shows them going for $25-$30. That sound right?

Ya, that sounds right.

Ok. I cuurently have brp7es in the car, don't remember the gap. If I go down to 6es, wouldn't I then be running too cold a plug for my mods at 18-20psi? 20 is the hi boost goal for now, will run 17 on low. If that's correct then it must be my gap is wrong. It's about time to get new plugs anyway and I keep reading on the success people are having running the br series plugs. Think I'll try some br7es ones gapped to .022 and see what the car does.

The 7's are colder than the 6's, and 8's are colder than 7's. Your thinking is backwards

Well consider me a believer! There were brp7es' in the car, each with a different gap ranging from .026-.034 and none of them looked too great. Swapped in the br7's but gapped at .022 I still had the break up so I went .028 and now she boosts just fine to 20psi.

I'd guess having the varying gaps, as well as some as large as .034" was causing the issues.

 

[Evo_This]

Ya, that sounds right.




The 7's are colder than the 6's, and 8's are colder than 7's. Your thinking is backwards




I'd guess having the varying gaps, as well as some as large as .034" was causing the issues.

Got to say I was pretty surprized by the gaps but that was my fault for not ensuring they were correct. Won't make that mistake again. This morning I believe my slave took a dive on me so guess I'll be replacing it and hopifully after that I can get a solid pull. Also you were right about the floor mat sliding under the pedal

 

[Evo_This]

UPDATE
Alright, after fixing alot of issues (Slave replaced twice thanks to O'Reilly's who gave me a fwd slave, adjusted the master, fixed the issue of the wastegate, replaced fans, on & on..) I think I'm ready to continue. Here's a log to check out.

 

[snowborder714]

The AFRatioEst and LC-1 lines fall pretty close to each other. Looks like just a tiny amount of adjustment could be made during the 2nd gear pull, but since it looks good on the 3rd gear, I'd just monitor it.

Your coolant temps are really high - high enough to be pulling timing.

Another thing to keep an eye on is your battery voltage. It's slipping down into the high 12v range at some points, which isn't ideal.

 

[Evo_This]

This is a 3rd & 4th gear pull with a tad of 5th...is that bad? I noticed power falling off throughout 4th, how can I adjust/correct this?

I'm stumped on the temp issue myself, I have all I could have to keep it cool yet when pushed hard it will creep up but once I let off it drops within a minute.

What can I do about that? I have a new battery, new alternator, no subs or amps, plus a grounding kit. What am I missing?

 

[snowborder714]

This is a 3rd & 4th gear pull with a tad of 5th...is that bad? I noticed power falling off throughout 4th, how can I adjust/correct this?

If the first part of that pull is 3rd gear, I'd go through and correct the MAF Comp sliders, as it seemed to be about 3% off throughout the whole pull.

I'm stumped on the temp issue myself, I have all I could have to keep it cool yet when pushed hard it will creep up but once I let off it drops within a minute.

Make sure your thermostat works fine, try using less anti-freeze (maybe a 70:30 distilled water to anti-freeze ratio), and try adding a bottle or two of Water Wetter. Next thing after that would be ducting.

What can I do about that? I have a new battery, new alternator, no subs or amps, plus a grounding kit. What am I missing?

Easiest thing is to look into a higher amp alternator (i.e. Saturn). I have the same issue and have a 200A Saturn alternator waiting to be installed.

 

[Evo_This]

Made adjustments to the afr's and timing but the car doesn't seem to be gaining power. I went external wg and higher boost yet the logs show I've lost power compared to the above one?

Plus I knock now

 

[snowborder714]

Logs help more than words.

Boost leak test?

 

[Evo_This]

Fixed
30psi boost leak test completed after wg install. Had only one from the afpr, it has been fixed.

 

[snowborder714]

Your airflow is incorrect. The easy way to check is only display AFRatioEst and wideband lines. They should be as identical as possible.

You could stop the knock by dropping the timing in the area at the beginning of the log.

Keep an eye on your injector duty % as it's getting close to being high.

Do you want to be running 10:1 or 11:1 AFR? If 11:1, you should go and adjust your MaxOct DA table to reflect this. This will help with the first issue I mentioned.