Need Transmission help!!!

[tvarga]

in my 99 gs, first off, when shifting into 3rd there is like this grinding noise like 2 gears are spinning then catching, but if i shift slowly from 3rd to fourth it wont do it at all, grinds even harder if downshifting from 5th to fourth. and sometimes during driving 2nd gear wont go all the way in, so i have to keep the clutch in and go to 1st and then to 2nd and it works. NEED ADVICE! was told it could be the snycros from someone, guy i bought it from said needed new slave cylinder?

 

[csmwiese]

If it was a bad slave or master it would do that in every gear (the clutch is still touching the flywheel causing the input shaft to spin) ( also it would creep with the clutch pedal in). I feel you have an internal transmission problem that will need to be removed and rebuilt by a transmission shop or purchase a good used trans and have it installed (at your risk of the same problems)

Clint

 

[tvarga]

could it have anything to do with the throw out bearing? i dont know much sorry. but i know when i start it up in the moring after sitting all night. it makes a a noise until warmed up. told it was the throw out bearing.

it also doesnt grind very much at all when i first drive it in the day, but when it is warmed up the 4th gear does it

 

[twicks69]

You could have several internal issues causing the shifting problems including worn/damaged shift forks or damaged shift rails, synchro issues, or hub/slider issues, or severely worn shaft bearings.

Either way, the only way to fix those problems is to do a teardown of the transmission and see what's going on.

It could be clutch disengagement issues, but I still suspect that the transmission needs servicing.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Twicks is one of out best. He rebuilds and offers advice. He helped me on my 1g talon years ago. Great guy

 

[csmwiese]

You will need to pull the transmission out no matter what, assume rebuild and if its something else good for you. It's not that hard to split the case to see inside. So plan on pulling and looking inside at a minimum. Don't short cut it, when trans is out replace clutch & release bearing, resurface flywheel, replace slave (if internal, I have an auto) and fix your trans (you have an internal problem). Just going stock your looking at a $1000 bill most likely. You keep driving it the bill will go up.
Good Luck.

Clint

 

[twicks69]

You will need to pull the transmission out no matter what, assume rebuild and if its something else good for you. It's not that hard to split the case to see inside. So plan on pulling and looking inside at a minimum. Don't short cut it, when trans is out replace clutch & release bearing, resurface flywheel, replace slave (if internal, I have an auto) and fix your trans (you have an internal problem). Just going stock your looking at a $1000 bill most likely. You keep driving it the bill will go up.
Good Luck.

Clint

Yes, the bellhousing does come off relatively easily from the rest of the transmission but you can also easily damage a shift rail or destroy the inner output shaft bearing or incorrectly reinstall the bearing causing damage. I still would recommend having a professional take a look at it if possible. I also have all the press fixtures to properly disassemble the gearset.

As well, this application uses a modular clutch with the flywheel riveted to it, it is nonreusable. If you do need a clutch, it will come with the flywheel if you stick with a modular clutch. Pm me if you need clutch options as I do sell the proper modular clutch for this application and have 4 or 5 choices depending on power levels and application for vehicle use. As well, the South Bend Clutch modular kits are bolt-together so you can replace single parts in the future. More than likely the SS/TZ modular kit will be good for your use. K70131SSTZ would be the part number.

 

[csmwiese]

I agree and I didn't come out and say it, you will need to take it somewhere and have it done. This is just my opinion but your car is a GS (non turbo I think, new to DSM'S), there is most likely no way you have enough power that an OE type clutch wouldn't be just fine. Your not going to be able to really tell how the clutch looks (with the style it is) so just replace it while trans is out (replace everything inside the bell housing)

Clint

 

[tvarga]

Well im not going to re build it myself, how much would a used tranny cost?

 

[twicks69]

Probably look on 2gnt forums classifieds.

 

[csmwiese]

car-part.com shows a few in your state , I'll try to put a link
Search Results

Clint

 

[Animal8979]

Transmission is not that complicated. Precision is key when reassembling. Pay attention to tolerances. Start with a bearing/seal/synchro kit likehttp://allstategear.com/allstate/productsearch.aspx?PageNo=1 and download the manual from here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre...stions/324090-download-2g-service-manual.html. Check out all of the gears/hubs/sliders etc and replace as necessary. I was nervous until I got her opened up but it's really not that bad!

 

[twicks69]

Transmission is not that complicated. Precision is key when reassembling. Pay attention to tolerances. Start with a bearing/seal/synchro kit likehttp://allstategear.com/allstate/productsearch.aspx?PageNo=1 and download the manual from here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre...stions/324090-download-2g-service-manual.html. Check out all of the gears/hubs/sliders etc and replace as necessary. I was nervous until I got her opened up but it's really not that bad!

You do understand that this is a T350 transmission, not a W5M33 or F5M33 transmission. They are completely different. There is a fixture press used to remove the gear clusters from the outer case portion that seperates the input and output bearings from the case section preventing damage to the input shaft and case. As well there are several details that need to be done to the shift selector assembly so that it properly seperates without issue so you won't damage the selector assembly. As well, the output shaft inner roller bearing is especially important for proper installation orientation and you will need a bearing race extractor and slide hammer to properly remove the bearing race for the output shaft inner bearing and both front diff bearings. You can also get diff pin blockers for the diff by retrofitting them from a T355 transmission and change out the 3rd gear and shift rail assembly to the updated version that has the shift limiter built into the rail instead of the gear. The synchros and bearings can be purchased from www.drivetrain.com and then all remaining parts would need to be purchased from Mitsubishi and Mopar.

I have done several of these transmissions and have all the special tools for properly disassembling them.

The transmission is called several different models depending on application, but is a T350 / A578 / F5MC1. You would use kit type BK414.

 

[csmwiese]

After reading tvarga's post, there is a ZERO % chance he should do this himself. No offense tvarga, that job is way too hard for almost everyone.

Clint

 

[95eclispe]

i just picked up a used tranny after mine went bad from grinding and stuff but i spent 350 on a tranny with 87k. Trannys either are good or theyre not once you get them on you usually know right away. I have two sitting in my garage just in case mine goes out again. The other I will rebuild when i have the time to send it out.