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NEED to pull block for head gasket job?

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thekellbeast

20+ Year Contributor
1,518
7
Jun 28, 2003
Portland, Maine
First, let me apologize for my typing. I just got eye surgery, so the entire screen is one big blur. I'm doing my best here.

Ok, so I'm almost certain that I blew my head gasket after doing numerous 20+ psi pulls on the stock engine.:D I have low compression in one cylinder, and I'm going to do a leakdown test when I get back to Maine. The oil is milky or anything, but I think the headgasket blew in between the water passages and one of the cylinders. I want to replace it with a cometic/ARP setup, but I don't want to pull the block to have it resurfaced. I have NEVER had it overheat on me, so I have no reason to suspect the block or head of being warped.

Would I be OK with just cleaning off the old gasket material, and sanding the block as much as possible? Should I use copper spray or spray paint to help it seal? I can tell you that I will definitely follow the torque specs exactly, so that won't be a cause for concern.

Anyways, thanks, and sorry about the typing again. :(
 
No, you shouldn't need to pull the block. Make sure both the surface of the block and head are smooth (no residue from old gasket) with fine sand paper and you will have no need to use any sort of glue/spray/sealer.
 
I wouldnt sand the deck surface, that sounds like a bad idea. You can check for warpage with a straight edge and feeler guage. I doubt the block is warped even if it did overheat. It would be much more likely that the head would warp being alluminum. Definately dont use spray paint and i think copper spray is only to be used with a copper head gasket in race application.
 
Like everyone said you can do it without taking out the entire engine. The hardest part is getting the exhaust manifold off without breaking the studs and getting to the bracket on the underside of the intake manifold(if it's still there). Also a little tip for you: When you put the head back on put the washers for the studs in place before setting the head in place. The ones that go in the corners of the head won't go on with the head and studs on the block and you have to eithe take the studs out or pull the head back off to get them on.
 
You can do it in place easily.

Just take your time and do it right, that way you should not have to do it again anytime soon.
 
Leave the block in and scrap off the old gasket. Check it with a straight edge to see if it warped, use some fine grit sand paper, just try not to get any shavings down the cylinders or water passages. Just take your time and be neat about it
 
I found when cleaning the block surface a nice sharp razor blade is perfect. I can get the block so clean you can see the orignal marks from decking at the factory.
 
Well, sounds like I have all of my questions answered. I'll be sure to use a torch to heat up the exhaust manifold nuts. Thanks a lot for the quick answers guys.
 
I would deffinitly get the head checked and get new vavle seals and the surface decked. Since your not decking to block. But since it hasn't ever overheated you should be good. I would use copper spray with a cometic and arps. :sneaky:
 
If it were me, I would just stick with the factory head gasket. I know a guy who is running 700+ AWHP on it, and has never had a problem running it. For those of you who do or dont know him, its Mike C from ColumbusDSM.
 
With the cometic gaskets both surfaces must be spotless clean. I would take the head to the machine shop and have them resurface it cause aluminum is kinda funny; there could only be .02 to .04 warpage on aluminum which would not show up on a regular gasket but cometic u will have a problem. Thats just from my experience with cometic, they both must be clean and straight as far as paint u could use a good coat of silver or copper paint its not gonna hurt anything on multi layer gasket.
 
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