Need thoughts on running 14 lbs boost

[91Bomb]

I have a near stock 1g and need opinions on turning up boost to 14 lbs and what may or may not need to be done to do that SAFELY with only having a real boost gauge + bcs still connected (as a failsafe to possible knock) and not having a logger or other gauges.

Is a fuel pump re-wire necessary at 14 lbs?

With using an all stock exhaust system is a cat removal necessary or at 14 lbs will stock exhaust still be flowing plenty good? My perception is it might be a little restrictive with the cat still on there causing a bit too much heat + pressure build-up.

Actually I just put a TP resonator on and feel stock exhaust with no cat is fine at 14 lbs and removed the air can horn and replaced paper filter with a microfiber STP filter.


Any thoughts?

 

[BrokenTsi]

Back in the day when mine was stock, i ran about 14lbs + all the free mods. 14psi isnt THAT much more than stock, it will be fine. You can afford to do a fuel pump re-wire if you're worried about it.

I'm sure a few people will come in here and be freaks about dataloggers, and fuel pumps and search buttons, etc....

A bone stock DSM runs pig rich from the factory. So a few extra lbs of boost wont hurt any. Just watch for boost spikes from 20yr old wastegate actuators, especially if you put a bigger exhaust on it.

Take some time and clean out your intercooler. Take it right out and flush it clean. In stock dsm's, the intercoolers are always full of gunk/oil as well as intake/intercooler pipes.

 

[91Bomb]

Ok so NOT doing fuel pump re-wire is nothing to worry about as far as leaning out becaue like mentioned I won't be using a logger. Btw that's why I'm limiting it to 14 lbs.

I'll be hooking up a valve underhood to control boost and where do I hook in so BCS is still connected to do it job for protection against knock?

Also when runnng my vacuum line for boost gauge where is the easiest way to route through the firewall? Through the boot for the steering?

 

[DSMboostin15]

Ok so NOT doing fuel pump re-wire is nothing to worry about as far as leaning out becaue like mentioned I won't be using a logger. Btw that's why I'm limiting it to 14 lbs.

A rewire will help keep a constant voltage going to the fuel pump. Fuel pump flow is directly related to voltage. Under the stock configuration, as the rpm increases, the voltage drops going to the pump due to increased load on the electrial system. Rewiring the pump maintains the constant voltage, therefore more consistant flow. But it is not necessary with only pushing 14 lbs. If you decide to go with a larger pump later on, a rewire will help get the most out of the pump.

I'll be hooking up a valve underhood to control boost and where do I hook in so BCS is still connected to do it job for protection against knock?

When you hook up a MBC or EBC, you eliminate the BCS. The BCS is there to bleed off boost based on sensor input to the ECU and keep the car safe is severe knock is present. If you keep it on the car, you will only see stock boost.

Also when runnng my vacuum line for boost gauge where is the easiest way to route through the firewall? Through the boot for the steering?

The best place I've found to bring wires through the firewall is the throttle cable gromett.

 

[91Bomb]

Ok I have a plumbing valve from home depot doing the mbc job right now and I'm at 15 lbs max in low to mid rpms with a drop down to 14-1/2 or less with higher rpms. I'm assuming stock 450 injectors should be fine with that but don't have logger yet just a real boost gauge. IF i was leaning out at any time i should hear some audible knocking right? I have a really good ear so does that suffice for now? Plus I'm not running over 6000 rpm ever.

Btw how do I disconnect the stock boost gauge so that needle isn't dancing around because don't need that now.

 

[FLASH1970]

Get a datalogger and look at injector duty cycles and knock before you turn up the boost. You won't be able to hear the knock over the engine.

 

[LiquidX]

+1 on above however you really are fine going to 14psi on a 1g with the 14b assuming you are manual.

If you want to disconnect the stock "boost gauge" you would need to pull the pin out of either he ECU or the behind the gauge cluster. It's just a voltage gauge really.

If you ever get ECMLink down the road you can turn the boosk gauge into a different readout via Link. I currently have my stock gauge showing me what my battery voltage is.

 

[nek]

I agree. 14psi is fine on stock fuel system. Wouldnt worry about a thing.

 

[91Bomb]

Just got my Fuel pump rewire kit today and will be installing that very soon

 

[keltalon]

Just got my Fuel pump rewire kit today and will be installing that very soon

Play if safe! You will be fine because the 1g stock mass air flow meter will let you know when enough is enough

 

[91Bomb]

Play if safe! You will be fine because the 1g stock mass air flow meter will let you know when enough is enough

1 thing I'm a little concerned about is the MAF honeycomb is damaged in a small area and wondering if I should be looking to buy just the honeycomb piece or remove it altogether.

My real boost gauge is hitting 15 lbs even (never more) and then genarally dropping a bit as rpms go up plus I'm RARELY going to see more than 6200 rpm and taking it easy until I do the fuel pump rewire.

So that sounds good, right?