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Need some tuning tips!!!

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Tooltrt87

10+ Year Contributor
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Feb 13, 2010
Ticonderoga, New York
Iv got an 92 tsi awd 950 fic injectors, fp green turbo, kelford 264/260 cams, 255 walbro and ecmlink running a gm maf. 93 octane.
On 20 psi according to ecmlink horsepower log i make 330 second gear pull. I do pull in third the power falls to 300 ish. I am not taking short cuts with tunning. If i turn the boost up and pull timming till there is no knock my power level is 280 ish. Its wearing me thin. I have no idea what im doing wrong i should be making 350 or better. Someone in the community please help before i unplug the knock sensor turn the boost up blow it sky high and burry in lake.
 
A log can tell more then you can in 10,000 words... so POST A LOG

Why are you even worried about the Horsepower thing? there are prob other things you need to get calibrated before you even bother with looking at what your ESTIMATED horsepower is... if you want REAL numbers go to a REAL dyno.

Your hp curve will depend on what your timing curve looks like, if your timing is dipping down you will show a dipped horse power curve. Again, POST A LOG
 
As said it's an estimate there are a lot more things to be concerned with then that to start with... .

Your hp curve will depend on what your timing curve looks like, if your timing is dipping down you will show a dipped horse power curve. Again, POST A LOG

There are a lot more factors involved then just timing... .

though if the OP is knocking an timing is getting pulled it would be obvious looking at timing VS HP curve(not that there isn't a reason to just look at a log for it)... .Though At one point there was no way to easily log knock(long ago) on a 2g and you just watched your timing curve.
 
As said it's an estimate there are a lot more things to be concerned with then that to start with... .



There are a lot more factors involved then just timing... .

though if the OP is knocking an timing is getting pulled it would be obvious looking at timing VS HP curve(not that there isn't a reason to just look at a log for it)... .Though At one point there was no way to easily log knock(long ago) on a 2g and you just watched your timing curve.

of course there could be other factors but we need a log before the speculation starts:rolleyes: my1gdsm, ill be hitting you up soon after i get my MT90 back in. are you heading to IFO june 3rd?
 
I go on this site via my iphone. Ill will give a shot at posting a log.
I use the hp in the logs as it was intentended only as a mear guide. Not for real numbers. It is very usefull for letting u know if the power is falling off or gaining. I appologize if it seamed otherwise.
I sat at my laptop reviewing my logs and it hit me.
My boost falls off and beause of that i wanted to add timming to make up for the lost boost.
Guess what..... Dosnt work.
Did some general testing as to why i was loosing boost, boost leak, waste gate,issue with controller,bov.
All were fine but..the bov. Forge makes a nice bov but after 20 psi it fails. Borrowed a freinds bov did a pull and there was the missing boost. Pulled timming accordingly... power stays up good now.
Yeah i know its a duuuuhhhhhh for most people and i agree but regardless its fixed.
Thanks everyone for your thoughts.
 
Tried the spacers and it didnt work. The grease that goes in the top of the valve was coming out of the valve. This would and did indicate a problem. I replaced the two rubber O rings inside regreased and it didnt last.
The bov is ment for a 2g and resirculation. I tried using beyond its manner of design.
I like the valve and will use it again on another car a friend and I are building.
This is not a complaint about the product (bov) as i siad i used it beyond what its intended use.
Its a great valve and design and i look forward to buying more forge products.
 
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Thats a log from today with the forge bov on
I know your gonna wanna see wideband but something is wrong its not loging correctly. i have to sort that out then i can upload a new log.
Be harsh yell at me if ya have to. I really need some help.

Almost forgot to mention it but if ya look at my rpm in the wot pull it bounces around odd.. could be a problem. If its logging that way then its the ecus feedback and the load not fitting with the rpm rang could mess everything up based on the set maps. Correct me if I am wrong.
thanks again.
 

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You cant expect a full analysis with no WB. I cant tell much about your airflow cause theres no idle. In you thresholds, i would revert to stock values unless you were just doing a mafcomp or something and forgot to. If wb and afrest are about the same, i would start pulling a lil timing to stop the knock.
 
Understood. Ill look on ecm link for the stock table. Once i set it back to stock i will repost with wb idle and wide open throttle. Just to add im useing a 3" gm maf.

I cannot find any a stock threshold table but i found this page..


v3mafadjcombft [ECMTuning - wiki]


He mentions to put the thresholds to 1.40 to get a wider range of closed loop operation. do a combft adjustment smooth it out and level out the ends.
then he mentions that wot will be covered somewhere else and i cannot find where.
I will keep my values at 1.10 across the board see how it goes.
if its helping but not enough then i will do as he says and do the 1.40 with the thresholds and try it all again.
 
I have not updated in a while so here i am.
I followed ecmlink gm airflow corrections to a perfect T.
v3mafadjcombft [ECMTuning - wiki]
There is the link to the guidlines used.
As i was saying to a T i did this.
I looked at my fuel pressure typed it in with the 950's started my cruise log after the 20 min of driving i did the maf comp and adjusted acordingly.
The car ended up way lean for the first 1000 rmp of of boost from about 3500 to 4500. Then it smothed out then got rich. I adjusted air flow based on the calculations provided. Did another pull and things went really whacky.
I check my fp gauge and it had changed. So i repeted everything again same results. Lean to perfect to rich.
I know this fuel pressure change is due to the idea that the regulator is over ran. I figured id be fine just changing it from stock to what i saw but when voltage in the car changes so does fuel pressure.
Soooo i have orderd an Afpr this should resolve this issue. Its a duh i know but explaining it fully will help others in search of an answer.
After the Afpr is installed and a new cv axel and another tune i will post a log with the Afpr and without to show its seccess.
 
Ok, progress. Thats good u found the fpr is bad. But, usually, a stock fpr will only cause problems at idle. Iirc. Been awhile LOL. Btw, after your done with mafcomps theres a small like 2 way arrow at the top of the tables in open loop thresholds. Click that and stock values will automatically be populated. This goes for about anything in DA. After the fields are filled with stock values just click "save all to ecu".
 
Thanks for taking interest in my issue you have been a huge help thus far.
I will do as you say and change to stock values after the maf comp.
 
welp!!!! Things went well but not as well as i hoped. im probley expecting to much.
Any ways this is the new log with the regulator base fp is set to 37 psi.
I let the car idle a bit in the log did a brief cruise and then did a 3rd gear pull.
not sure what else to add but feel free to ask.
 

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Update. With the regulator i fixed my lean issue ass soon as boost hits but i still get get this thing right. So i checked out the videos on ecmlinks website. Watched how to get idle steady and watched how to get correct airflow and correct deadtime.
So i did these to things. My idle has to be higher because of my cams. Got it steady as possible. Then i did the airflow adjustment its down in the -17.4 area with 950 injectors and the dead time is extreamly high aprox 550 usec from a 330.
I just wanna get this issue resolved first now. If its even an issue at all. I should add that since i did the resent idle airflow adjust it drives better. Take off isnt skippy and boged out with an instant pick up then its fine.
So i ask should my airflowper/rev with my cams and idle at1500 be .25? Or is it fine to not aim for this adjustment be ause when i do the car gets rich and the deadtime 550 but it drives better.


Another thing i found is my voltage gets really low 12.5 and then she idles low. If its 13.0 or higher she idles fine. Gonna figure out what that is today.

Can post logs just lmk if one is needed
 
Ok, i noticed your targeting 1500rpm idle and your around 1k to 1100. I would look at the BISS adjustment and also make sure your ISC is working properly. Your log, without a wb or a logged MAP sensor is going to be hard to critique cause i cant compare one to the other to see if your mafcomps are off.

In the last post: I am in the same boat. Crower 272s and my idle is at 1k so im not getting .25g/rev without doubling my deadtimes and dropping my mafcomp through the floor. I gave up on it and settled for around .33 at idle. Im not sure if im wrong, never got a clear answer on that but it does idle just fine LOL.

as far as the voltage dropping: I would hand a meter on the battery and see whats going on. Then check the wiring fromt he alternator and check the alternator itself. Im seeing 13.7 steady at idle fyi.
 
Isc is fine biss is in order. The log shows a low idle because of the low voltage she idles 1450 1520 when she is above 13.1 volts

I thought i had wideband in that log. Ill post The log again and double check everything before i do.

here is the same log as the previous one posted with the wideband and map as well there is alot goin on with the log i know but all is there.
 

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