Need some input from you veterans! (450hp goal)

[thisdsm]

Im looking to get some tips/advice from you veterans. I've owned my car (in profile) for some time now and a few months ago, I was actually thinking about selling it. Plans have changed and I guess I'd rather keep something that I own and value. My plans for the car and has always been to have a daily driven, reliable 450(+) hp car. The car has pretty much been parked in the garage for the last 5-6 years with performance parts slowly adding on. Im now at a time where I want to complete the build and see what she can do. What I'd like to know is, are the parts I've gathered so far enough to put me at my goal safely and reliably? I'd like to keep the 7bolt and keep it as oem looking as possible under the hood. The motor has approximately 118K miles. Here's a list of all the important stuff that I've got so far:
agp t3/t4 60-1 to4e full garret kit
tial 38mm external wastegate/ open dump setup
sfp manifold
ebay fmic w/short route piping
greddy type s bov
fp 4" intake with everything (mas, etc) still connected as stock
apexi air filter
fic 950cc fuel injectors
walbro 255 fp
aeromotive afpr w/gauge
flex-a-lite slim fans
koyo radiator
dsmlink v2 (thinking about upgrading to v3)
zeitronix wideband o2, boost, egt setup with lcd screen
cometic headgasket
arp headstuds
apexi n1 full 3" exhaust

And here's what Im thinking about getting:
hks 272s intake and exhaust cams
magnus smim (not sure what tb yet, maybe 1g?? any inputs??)


And possibly upgrading the internals as well, but this is where I am at a total loss as to what I need for it to be done right.

What are your expert thoughts on this? Is there anything I should add to the mod list? Or am I good with what I have? I'd also like reassurance that my car won't take a dump on me when I get it dyno tuned, possibly at RRE or Tuning Tech. As I said, I would like the car to be as reliable as possible. I don't want to commute somewhere far and have my car die on me. Thanks in advance.

 

[2slow4utsi]

Go with an HX35/40, don't get an SFP manifold, don't go with a Type S just cause it sounds cool, you don't need a Koyo radiator, I'd go with Kelford 272s but that's opinion based and as for the TB you don't need anything bigger than a 1g (I'd go N/T IMHO). Take everything I say with a grain of salt as I am not an expert and I don't claim to know anything more than anyone else on this site.

-Danny

 

[thisdsm]

All those parts were bought and installed years ago. And if I could've predicted the future, I would've waited and went with a fp3052 or gt30r setup, but like I said, I already have what I listed so there really isn't any point of me going another route and wasting anymore money. If I can, I would like to use and keep the existing parts that are already on my car.

 

[2slow4utsi]

All those parts were bought and installed years ago. And if I could've predicted the future, I would've waited and went with a fp3052 or gt30r setup, but like I said, I already have what I listed so there really isn't any point of me going another route and wasting anymore money. If I can, I would like to use and keep the existing parts that are already on my car.

I'd do all maintenance first since the engine has 118k on it, then go with a set of Kelford 272s and the SMIM is fine just use a 1g flange and N/T TB. As for everything else, get something to tune it with and see what you can do from there. You have some nice stuff and you should see at least 350-400. All depends on the tune.

 

[gofer]

To answer your questions I think your HKS 272's are a good grind, also look into FP2's and Kelfords as they are also drop in and go but you don't need to tap the end of the intake cam to hold the 2g CAS like the HKS cams.

You live in SoCal get a SoCal BUILT SMIM, get a BJ's... If you want his contact info I got it, I've also got pictures of mine. On top of it being one of the best SMIM on the market he also puts a mounting bracket on the underside of it to mount your coil packs and ignition amp. BJ works out of Palmdale and has great customer service with my experience with him.

If you can pick up a 1g N/A throttle body, its a boost leak eliminator since you can run a coupler on the IC side of it and its still 60mm. If you do get a N/A TB your going to need one of these bad boys too and they aren't cheap. 2.5" 90* elbow or one of these if you go 3" GM MAF 2.5" to 3" 90* elbow

You should have enough to hit the 400whp mark with those mods but with that many miles on the stock long block and stock head bolts and the original headgasket your going to blow a hg. I say to pull the head and at the least resurface it, then put on a fresh composite hg and ARP headstuds to hold the boost. If its an option you might think about selling your 950's and get a alittle bigger injector to support the turbo airflow and run E85 instead of 91 octane bum piss.

See you at MOD?