2G Need some electrical help please

[Jacolu3]

So quick back story. Car is pretty much stock right now. Just some bolt ons.
So last month I was driving home and got a cel for misfire multiple cylinders and kept driving and ended up blowing the ignition fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay. Found out that my coil pack melted. Replaced the coil pack and fuse and fixed the cel and misfire. Now my battery drains. Battery in less than a year old so I'm pretty sure the battery is still fine. I can jump the car and starts right up. So I disconnected the negative cable and used a test light (from the negative post to the negative cable) and started pulling fuses until the light turned off. Found that when I pulled the radio fuse in the engine bay the test light turned off. So I pulled the radio out and disconnected the radio and with the radio fuse installed I used my test light again and the light didn't turn on.
So next I started to check for shorts to ground. I found that the blue wire on the car harness would give me a short to ground. Searched online and found that the blue wire is the 12 volt + ignition wire. Which as far as I know should not give me a short to ground.
So next step I started pulling fuses one by one to see when this short would go away. I found that when I pulled the 20 amp fuse for the wipers under the dash the short would go away. So I thought I narrowed down my issue and reconnected the radio and used my test light again but it still would light up with the wiper fuse disconnected.
Haven't driven my car for over a month because I'm afraid of getting stuck somewhere because of this issue.
Anyone have any suggestions that could help me narrow down this issue?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Brian

 

[DogWhistle]

I'm not familiar with 1G wiring harnesses, but the only idea that comes to mind, is to check to see if the wire leads for the wiper motor, run inside the same harness -- at some point -- as the ignition coil leads (from the ecu). It could be that these leads got hot enough to melt the insulation on the wiper motor leads, and cause a short.

 

[Jacolu3]

It is a 2g.
But I would also like to state that the wipers do work which makes it odd to me

 

[simplejoe]

Did you lift your fuse box under the hood and look at the wiring for anything melted or broken wires that can ground out?

 

[Jacolu3]

I did and changed the wires going to the battery but didn't notice anything else that looked bad. I'll have to check again.
I'm wondering now if there is a relay for the wipers that might be messed up

 

[chrysler kid]

The radio is going to have a natural draw because it saves your station presets and time.

The wipers I'm not sure about.

I had an 8 month old die hard battery go bad from 2 different instance of brake light switch stoppers going bad. The car was drained completely and jumped 3 times and after that would never hold a charge. I would atleast get your battery tested

 

[Jacolu3]

The radio is going to have a natural draw because it saves your station presets and time.

The wipers I'm not sure about.

I had an 8 month old die hard battery go bad from 2 different instance of brake light switch stoppers going bad. The car was drained completely and jumped 3 times and after that would never hold a charge. I would atleast get your battery tested

I agree the radio will have some draw but it's drawing a .5 amps. I feel like that's a lot. Maybe I'm wrong

 

[chrysler kid]

I'm not saying you're wrong but I did the same tests on my civic and it really just proved irrelevant because the bad battery couldn't even hold a charge on its own. The car being bone stock cuts down on the errors

If you have a battery charger then fully charge the battery and then let the battery sit on its own overnight disconnected. If you can start the car easily the next morning you know its a draw. If the car barely starts the next day you know the battery is bad and not sustaining a charge

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

connect a multimeter on amps wired in for the unfused circuit and connect the leads between a battery terminal and battery post. You can use either side. You shouldn't have over .1 amp draw. 50mA or less is okay. If you have a large draw pull fuses from fuse box till current draw drops to acceptable amount. When you pull the fuse that the stops the draw chase the issue on that circuit.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

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[Jacolu3]

connect a multimeter on amps wired in for the unfused circuit and connect the leads between a battery terminal and battery post. You can use either side. You shouldn't have over .1 amp draw. 50mA or less is okay. If you have a large draw pull fuses from fuse box till current draw drops to acceptable amount. When you pull the fuse that the stops the draw chase the issue on that circuit.

I've done this and found when I pull the radio fuse the draw drops. With the radio fuse installed I have .5 amps. So I know there's an issue within the radio circuit.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Then the radio is either faulty or wired incorrectly.

 

[Jacolu3]

Then the radio is either faulty or wired incorrectly.

I'm going to lean toward the radio being faulty. I installed it about 6 months ago and the battery was fine until recently.

 

[luv2rallye]

The "radio" fuse (10A) also goes to the cruise control, keyless door locks receiver, power antenna.

 

[chrysler kid]

Pull the battery to have it tested before you spend time digging into all the wiring. .5 amps is not large enough to drain a battery overnight

All autoparts stores charge and test them for free. Drop off your battery in the morning for them to charge it and test it and pick it up on your way home

 

[Meinleat]

You could check the radio just unplug it at the harness and check for the battery drain. The talon in my photo had so many dead leads put into the harness ,under the drivers side dash, that it would drain batteries in a couple hours. Definitely check everything including the battery as mentioned by Chrysler kid before just throwing money around.

 

[Jacolu3]

Pull the battery to have it tested before you spend time digging into all the wiring. .5 amps is not large enough to drain a battery overnight

All autoparts stores charge and test them for free. Drop off your battery in the morning for them to charge it and test it and pick it up on your way home

This will be my weekend project. Thanks for the help

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

The "radio" fuse (10A) also goes to the cruise control, keyless door locks receiver, power antenna.

I should have added this^ Thank you.

Pull the battery to have it tested before you spend time digging into all the wiring. .5 amps is not large enough to drain a battery overnight depending on the type and size battery used.

All autoparts stores charge and test them for free. Drop off your battery in the morning for them to charge it and test it and pick it up on your way home

.5 amps is enough to kill a battery overnight unless you have a strong battery.

Best thing to do is find the connectors for the components and disconnect each one to see where the problem lies. Easiest way to do door locks would be to simply pull the switch from the door and unplug it. Or probably easier to unplug the connector at the front of the door coming from the chassis.

Power antenna will disconnect with the radio plug as it should power on and off with radio power. But it easy to remove the plastic in the rear also.

 

[chrysler kid]

Well charge the battery and pull the fuse for the radio. If it sits for 5 hours and cranks strong immediately you know there's a draw, if it's dead you know the battery is the cause