Need Painting Help "what psi???"

[Grimis]

I'm searching and getting diffrent answers.

What im looking for is info on painting my 2g. Sanding I have down, not a problem, its what PSI to use a grav feeder paint gun. So I'm askin any painters here for advice.

all i've found is something like 100psi and non-oil air compressure with like 3/8 air line....

also i used duplivinal paint on the interor with there adheaseve, and it doest want to stick, any ideas on what to do or what paint to go to???

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

Is it an HVLP gun or not?

 

[bomexe]

mid to high 30's you will have lot of paint that is not getting the body but it will be better in the end because the less psi ive learned the more runs you get. just my .02

 

[Grimis]

Its the one from lowes, I havent picked it up yet, unless there is a better one out there, It might be HVLP.. not sure, ### there site doest have it listed...

 

[1PhatACR]

Its the one from lowes, I havent picked it up yet, unless there is a better one out there, It might be HVLP.. not sure, ### there site doest have it listed...

Is the paint cup on top or on the bottom???

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

what PSI to use a grav feeder paint gun.

1234

 

[Grimis]

Is the paint cup on top or on the bottom???

Hence Grav, means Top.

And i dont get 1234

 

[gstdroptop]

First, don't buy the gun from Lowes. Most of the guns they sell there are not for automobile related tasks. They look the same and the price is great but the tip thats in the gun is most likely not for you. You can go to any auto paint store or even an Advanced Auto and find a user friendly cost efficent gun.

Make sure the gun you are buying is an HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) gravity feed gun. They require less air pressure and allow you to use every drop of material. You can use a syphon feed but make sure its HVLP. The problem with syphon feed is the wasted material.

As far as air pressure, you should be spraying in the 34-38 psi range. It depends on the gun but I'd say no more than 42psi. Make sure the gun settings are adjusted correctly before you spray. A piece of carboard works great!!!

When you are spraying you want to be 8-12 inches away and the pattern should be about 6 inches tall. Remember your 50/50 overlap while spraying and it will help to eliminate dry spray.

If you have any more questions feel free to reply back, or pm me.


Opps!! I almost forgot some important items to include. First and most important an inline filter to catch any excess dirt or water (assuming that you already have an air water seperator on the compressor). Two make sure not to just set the pressure at the air compressor set that at about 80psi then set the one on the gun at your desired psi. The last is a cup filter not the strainer but this little guy actually goes down in the cup before you pour the paint in and stays there. These little guys are dirt cheap and trust me, they make a big diffrence.

 

[Grimis]

gstdroptop, Thanks ever so much, you have answered my questions to a T and no smart remarks ether, a to you.

I have writen down what you have said, now to find a good compresser , as for the spray gun, will be getting the Ampro from Advance the one with the regulator at the bottom of the gun. Thanks again.

 

[1PhatACR]

Hence Grav, means Top.

And i dont get 1234

I didn't see Grav.

Sorry....

It looks like your questions were addressed.

 

[Grimis]

I didn't see Grav.

Sorry....

It looks like your questions were addressed.

yep, sorry about that, but thanks

 

[roadrunner2176]

He gave you great advice, also would like to mention that you spray the paint in the direction of the car. Ex: Hood should be sprayed from headlights to windshield across, not from fender to fender.

It might not seem like a big deal, but when it dries the overlap will come right up.

Also, when you buy your gun, make sure your buying one with an adjustable tip, or get an extra set of tips. If your not sure what tip to use, when you get your paint it will say on the label use tip size X.X .

If you have never shot anything before, grap a piece of plywood and spray paint it black. Give yourself a few trial runs and find out what feels comfortable to you. Primer than paint. (remember to follow directions for flash cotes)

Also remember that there are different shades of primer, use the shade that is recommended for your paint. Wrong primer, wrong shade of paint.

To be honest, any spray gun is a good gun if you know how to use it. HVLP will save you some paint by using less air pressure having less paint bounce off what your painting. Siphon reguires more air pressure to operate.

I could tell you to spray right at 32 psi, but it will depend o nwhat gun your using. On the back there should be a minimun requirements recommendation which will say something like 8.8 cfm and 4.4 cfm at XX psi. The psi lested on the back is what your going to spray your paint at. Every gun varies slightly, some are in the low 12, some up to 55 psi. The cfm will tell you what air compressor you will need to purchase to keep it from comstantly running. My suggestion would be anything that is belt driven with at least a 20 gallon tank.

You dont what your compressor constantly running, direct drives will work for a spray gun, but I would never trust one and their too loud.


Last thing, when your ready to paint, and you have finished you prep, either washed down your area to keep the dust down, or cleaned it dust proof, keep your hose away from it. Nothing worse than coming back a few hours later just to see that your hose rubbed somewhere and you need to redo that panel.

 

[Grimis]

He gave you great advice, also would like to mention that you spray the paint in the direction of the car. Ex: Hood should be sprayed from headlights to windshield across, not from fender to fender.

It might not seem like a big deal, but when it dries the overlap will come right up.

Also, when you buy your gun, make sure your buying one with an adjustable tip, or get an extra set of tips. If your not sure what tip to use, when you get your paint it will say on the label use tip size X.X .

If you have never shot anything before, grap a piece of plywood and spray paint it black. Give yourself a few trial runs and find out what feels comfortable to you. Primer than paint. (remember to follow directions for flash cotes)

Also remember that there are different shades of primer, use the shade that is recommended for your paint. Wrong primer, wrong shade of paint.

To be honest, any spray gun is a good gun if you know how to use it. HVLP will save you some paint by using less air pressure having less paint bounce off what your painting. Siphon reguires more air pressure to operate.

I could tell you to spray right at 32 psi, but it will depend o nwhat gun your using. On the back there should be a minimun requirements recommendation which will say something like 8.8 cfm and 4.4 cfm at XX psi. The psi lested on the back is what your going to spray your paint at. Every gun varies slightly, some are in the low 12, some up to 55 psi. The cfm will tell you what air compressor you will need to purchase to keep it from comstantly running. My suggestion would be anything that is belt driven with at least a 20 gallon tank.

You dont what your compressor constantly running, direct drives will work for a spray gun, but I would never trust one and their too loud.


Last thing, when your ready to paint, and you have finished you prep, either washed down your area to keep the dust down, or cleaned it dust proof, keep your hose away from it. Nothing worse than coming back a few hours later just to see that your hose rubbed somewhere and you need to redo that panel.

more good tips, thanks will print these out as well. Loving the help and i have a 4x8 sheet of plywood to test it out on. Im getting an non-oil compresser but will wait till i go pick up the gun then go compressure shoping. So when painting as you said, from bumper to windshield, should be the same for the side, front to rear, not up and down like ive read, side to side.

Im not going to be doing this every weekend, i got my 2g to redo , my dads car, and the wifes when ever i get done sanding and preping mine.

 

[roadrunner2176]

Yes, you go with the flow of the car. Also consider an air compressor with oil. The oiless ones will burn out after a year when their used for something other than airing a flat tire from time to time.

 

[Grimis]

oh, so what i read maybe just pref then? something about the oil getting into the air and screwing with the paint, but like i said, this compresser will be used for painting like 3 cars, then will be for air tools and such.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

You should do the other cars first for practice.. I'll bet it'll make the job on your car much better...

I just got a compressor, impact gun, and a spray gun, can't wait to try it out vs. rattle can I've been used to.

 

[roadrunner2176]

Oil will only get into the paint if you dont run an oil water seperator inline with your air tools. Air tools need oil from time to time, paint guns do not. Any air tool will recommend that you put a few drops of pneumatic oil in from time to time. A compressor that requires oil is just like a car engine. You are going to fill the crank case with oil. The oil from there will not enter the air line, its just there to lubrcate your compressor.
Most direct drive compressors are oilless and offer low cfm rates. You will run out of air in no time, and they take forever to recharge meaning more downtime, or not the proper air pressure while your painting. They also wont last very long this way.

A compressor that is belt driven, will last a good 20 years or more. They recharge faster, make hardly any noise, are repairable instead of junked, higher cfm, dont bounce around, and use less electric.

I would also recommend that if you get anything that runs a consistent hp more than 4 to get the option of 220V. You will notice a difference.

An oil and water seperator will pull any oil and water out of the air line before it reaches your tool. Compressed air produces water, its there, no getting away from it. Draining your tank from time to time will help, but it will still be there. Oil can come from anywhere, you sucking air, it could be floating in the air. Some will come from lubricating the sleeve, but thats why you have a seperator.

Im just saying, if your going to spend the money on a compressor, buy something that will last more than a year, and if you plan on using it for other things (once you have one, you will) your going to need something to support those air tools. If your just going to use it once, than rent a good one or make an offer to borrow one from someone.

 

[gstdroptop]

Originally Posted by roadrunner2176
"The cfm will tell you what air compressor you will need to purchase to keep it from comstantly running. My suggestion would be anything that is belt driven with at least a 20 gallon tank."

I'm with roadrunner on this one. You can pick up a decent belt driven compressor for a fairly reasonable price. If you have a TSC (tractor supply company) close by where you live you can pick up a 60 gallon cambelle housefield belt drive for around $400 dollars. This seems like alot but like roadrunner stated it will last forever and can easily be repaired. They offer why better scfm at 40 and 90 psi than you will ever get out of an oiless compressor. If 220v isnt an option id suggest trying to find another tank to hook up to your cheap compressor so your not playing as much "catch up" but this will most likely take even longer to fill and by the time you buy a surge tank you might as well of just went with the belt drive 220V for price.

hope this helps and great info roadrunner. I'm guessing your in the autobody field yourself. Keep up the good work!!!!


p.s. Also dont be afraid of the Farm Hand compressors or tools they sell they are very well priced and are built to last through years of working on tractors and and other farm equipment.

 

[gstdroptop]

hi there,

Just wondering if you ever bought or even decided on the compressor? Have you practiced on the wood or done a car yet? Keep me posted or if you have any more questions post or send me a pm.

thanks
will

 

[Grimis]

I found a 26gal at sears along with there HVLP, but leaning towards the ampro gun from advance.

I havent done much to mine, well for sanding and primering it for now. The paint will come later as i'll have to tuch up or redo the priming, no biggy, as the funding as shiffted towards a 2.3stroker build up. As for the other cars, My pops car will be the first, and i have a nice 4x8 sheet of plywood ready for testing and such. Also ran into a old school auto tech teacher and gave me his number and such and he will come up and show me a few tricks of the trade etc, so im kinda happy about that.

but here is a picture of it primed... I need to redo the hood as dont know what happend to the one area i fixed, my dad thinks i bought a bad batch of bondo filler.. so will see as long its not 90+ out....

and that house in the background is't MINE its beaing torn down so i get a free parking spot

 

[gstdroptop]

Do you have a picture of the hood where its messed up??? It looks good for now love the flat black!!! As far as bad batch of bondo most likely not, rember the hotter it is out the less hardner you should have to use to make it react. What brand of bondo are you using? What color is it and what is the color of the hardenr? With theres few answers I can mix some up and show you what shade it should be. Are you haveing to play a lot of catch up with the air compressor or no?

 

[Grimis]

I'll have to take one of the hood, but by then it will probley be fixed I think it might of been a bit too hot out and i might have added a tad to much hardner and it set to fast (if that makes sence)

As for the compresser, Its still at sears ... what your seeing is about 6days of playing with accuweather and seeing what the temps are and wind is, and hitting it with primer in a can... I know not the best way to do it, but right now till i get a garage to do this right. I'll live with primer. I did't take it all the way to the metal as im going back to black, would like silver but dang the prices on paint plus i have the nasty 2g wheel well holes, not as bad as i seen in the one post here, there on my next list to get done, some sheet metal, ss self taping screws, some fiberglass cloth/resean and walla fixed wheel wells ...

I have still yet to get the block out.. I just keep poping the hood and saying GET OUT and then closing it. It seems to be that its not working that way, so one of these cool days I'll muster up the nerve to drop the tcase, remove the pullys and such and yank it so i can get it sent to become a 2.3stroker

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

Hey Grimis, wasn't your car smashed up by your brother or something?

 

[Grimis]

yeah, it was, now its almost done.