Need opinions on T25 or 14b

[jinscho]

First thing out of the way. This is going on a 4G64 SOHC turbo swap. I'm not doing a head swap, and I'm only looking to run 7-8lbs with a stock 2g SMIC. Doing this as more of a 'look what I did' than building a track car.

That out of the way, I'm going to be hitting up a local shop that parts out DSMs later today. He has a T25 that I can pick up for $80, or a 14b for $100. Both are in perfect functional order with minimal shaft play. With my goals in mind, do you think the 14b is worth the extra couple bucks? I know the T25 runs out of breath at higher rpms, but I rarely rev beyond 5.5k.

Help me make up my mind!

 

[doubleclutch]

This pretty much disagrees with everything you are saying and the dude makes his own brand of oil, derived for his racing team.

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2014/02/26/4-common-motor-oil-myths-theyre-false/

 

[jinscho]

Well.. guess I can cross "start a thread asking about stock turbo applications that leads to an argument over oil" off my dsmtuners.com bucket list.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Well.. guess I can cross "start a thread asking about stock turbo applications that leads to an argument over oil" off my dsmtuners.com bucket list.

This happens ANYTIME oil is brought up. Everybody has their go-to oil.

 

[jinscho]

This happens ANYTIME oil is brought up. Everybody has their go-to oil.

Duly noted. I guess with my background in the quick lube industry I learned to not overthink oil. It's quite simple really, go with a well respected brand at a viscosity you are comfortable running for your application. Beyond that, conventional, synthetic, syn blend.. in most applications it doesn't matter. Hell, mix all of them together in your own special blend if you really want to. Oil isn't a 'one size fits all' commodity and it's doubtful it ever will be.

 

[Murdertalon]

Mmm my engine runs just fine with 156K on it. Never had it open. How does yours run?
From your profile: "Its been wrecked at least once I know of and blown up twice. gotta love DSM's "
You know what kills engines? Not doing maintenance, neglecting tuning and ignoring knock.
I'm not calling anyone's "buddy" to get into a discussion about something that is very well documented. High zinc oils are for flat tappet or solid lifters. We don't have either of those stock. If you have an actual race car that sees actual track time, go for the 20W50. For every day driving, it is too thick and not necessary.

And no, no it isn't. It is a very stock application in very stock form without modifications.
All this too say, IF YOU WANT TO TALK ABOUT OIL OPEN AN OIL THREAD.
This is like the 7th time you have high jacked a thread to talk about your VR1 magic drink.

1. I asked about the oil OP was planning on using as I consider 10w30 water, if you want to run water I wont stop you but at over 200* most oil wont cut it. Also consider the 4G63 has one of the highest if not the highest operating temps of any normal engine+ its baking it through a super heated turbo bearing.
2. The head gasket has failed in my car once prior to my owning it and once since I owned it the bottom end is STOCK and NEVER been worked on or out of the car. It has had the head milled or flattened twice because of this. Yep if you have to replace a HG I consider that blown up gangster. The bottom end is still within every factory spec though and its an early 95 which are the most "prone" to crank walk. It was wrecked as in it has a salvaged title from a prior owner contacting a wall and claiming insurance, front end metal was pulled out one fender replaced and painted.

 

[lasthope05]

English please.

It's oil specs. The higher the HTHS numbers the better wear protection/worst fuel economy. The lower the number is vice versa, better fuel economy/less wear protection. TBN is oil longevity and it's ability to neutralize acids from the combustion process.

 

[lasthope05]

1. I asked about the oil OP was planning on using as I consider 10w30 water, if you want to run water I wont stop you but at over 200* most oil wont cut it. Also consider the 4G63 has one of the highest if not the highest operating temps of any normal engine+ its baking it through a super heated turbo bearing.

FYI, Engine oil no matter the grade is designed to run at 212°f unless it's a synthetic race oil that's stable in the 300°f+ range. Coupled with the fact that our engine oil is either air cooled or water cooled it's a moot point unless you are road racing.

Water cooled oil coolers also have a secondary function, and that's to quickly and properly heat up the engine oil to boil out contaminates such as water and fuel.

 

[lasthope05]

If their cars are running that hot, then they have issues. Not to mention the check engine light comes on at 234°f and the ECU is pulling timing past 206°f....

I don't have a problem with VR1. In fact, I have over 14 cases of the stuff and I run it in my 1g, but that's a full drag car with wide clearance and aluminum rods.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I'll just run Brad Penn 20x50 because FP runs it in all their cars. They operate in Texas (same as me) and their driving goals are probably similar to mine. Other than that, I have no particular knowledge or insight into the subject of oils.

 

[Boomdeeze]

Klotz 10w40 4StreetRod oil here! High zinc rating and a great synthetic oil.

 

[JusMX141]

Well that went about as far off-topic as possible.

To answer the original question, I'd choose the 14B. A T25 is pretty much maxed out on turbine flow on a 2.0L as it comes- a 14B compressor was designed with 9-13psi of operating pressure in mind but will still work great at 8psi, and the turbine wheel/housing are better-suited to the larger displacement.

I don't see any reason this thread needs to stay open considering how far off-topic it's gone. If you want to know what oil to use, we have plenty of threads discussing that already.