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need more help car turnsover but no crank

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grimlin3907597

10+ Year Contributor
53
0
May 31, 2009
summerville, South Carolina
Hey, This is the secound time im posting this, My gst was at my mechanic just getting a simple motorswap and is never going back to him. When i got it back cranked up fine idle was bouncing then would stop then do it again, i didnt think anything of it waited to let to warm up then drove it. With in the 15miles of me comeing back to my house i floored it and it high revs and car doesnt go at all. very sluggish. And sometimes when i was coming to a stop it would stall and then i would just turn it back on and ride. I changed my spark plugs they were wet and jet nasty black , still no crank. PLease HELP ME AND GIVE ME ALL WHAT COULD BE WRONG, EVERYTHING. So i can check it all out and start trying to fix it. If you need anymore information on my car just ask.
 
You floored it, and it wouldn't accelerate? Have you tested for a boost leak? Sounds like you popped a coupler off somewhere in the intake. Also, did the re-circulate the BOV or did they leave it disconnected?
 
I dont have anything to test for leaks, and when i floored it it was really sluggish like it wantted to go fast but it wasnt. And i have no clue about the BOV, it makes the purge noise

thats all i know

IS this car essentially stock? Unless you are running DSMLink and a GM-Maf, you should be recirculating the BOV (will make it hard to hear it release). Not having this recirculated without supporting mods will cause it to stall when coming to a stop (pushing in the clutch)

Upload some pics of the BOV area and engine compartment.

Also, look at the intake tubing/hoses from the turbo through the inter-cooler to the intake. You will most likely see a loose hose/clamp.

One or both of these issues are causing you to run rich.
 
Check timing... \

Besides that, check for big boost leaks, turbo shaft play, make sure all sensors are good. I know the coolant temp one causes issues if it's loose. Also, was it a used engine you dropped in or a complete rebuild?

If rebuild you need to baby that thing for 500-1000 miles before beating on it.
 
Ok First complete rebuild, New upgraded turbo MHI big 16G stock fuel FMIC i dont have stock MAF K&N, Its a stick, No loose lines and mechanic wont answer phone. I have a scanner on its way to check everything sensor wise. I know i have a 4 stage BOV i can make 4 different purge noise's. My brother is a master GM mechanic so hes going to look at my timimg now anything else you guys need to to know to help solve this.
 
I understand, but with what you're describing and what all can go wrong in an engine swap, and the fact that you won't do a leak test and don't know what all parts you have, it's just too big a problem if you want to drive it any time soon. The mechanic I'm sure warranties his work if he's worth a darn, make it his problem.

If you had the tools, space, and time to fix this you probably would have done the swap yourself.
 
Do a boost leak test, compression test, find out how old the clutch is, and find out if you're recirculating the BOV. How much boost are you running and what AFRs are you seeing? What do you mean when you say you don't have stock MAF?

Basically what everyone already said, but I still say have the mechanic fix out for free.
 
OK imma do everything that you told me to tomarrow, My mechanic is not answering his phone and i know wont do it for free, It was a friend deal, and he screwed me on it. I know my gauge when i drove it said 10psi. And my MAF might be stock .
 
It's late, let the mechanic sleep. You need to find out EXACTLY what parts you have. Do you have a garage and tools? You'll need both.
 
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