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Need Ideas on Engine Rebuild (Rod Knock)

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lucid15

10+ Year Contributor
527
0
Oct 10, 2008
Portland, Oregon
Overview/Ramble Introduction

I just bought a 95GSX, 136k on the clock, that has been sitting for 2 years, says the last owner shut it off as soon as he heard the rod knock. I picked up the car for $800, it needs new keys made (lost by last owner), halfway through a black interior conversion, needs to be re-painted at some point, tranny is supposedly fine.

My Mechanical Background / Experience
ANYWAY, on to some more general stuff, i used to own a 95 GSX, did a lot of interior touch-up, replaced the clutch, flywheel 3x, did a turbo and fuel system install, DSM Keydiver, there is more but i will just leave it at that for now. My plan is to make this my project gather the tools, parts i need along the way and slowly do it right. I will be going to English Racing like i have in the past when i need help, and all machine work and necessary work will be completed by them.

Rebuild Direction / Questions
So i am just going to assume this is going to NEED a complete rebuild, and i want to do so anyway. I am trying to recollect my DSM knowledge as quickly as possible and know that i will want to at least do the following:
  • 6 bolt conversion
  • Engine needs to handle ~ 500WHP
  • 272 Cams
  • Streetable Clutch / Flywheel that can handle 500whp- Possible? (i owned a Fidanza 4.3 but didnt like it)
  • Evo3 16g

Conclusion
I know i am forgetting about all the supporting parts, possible big parts that i may need and won't know until i get "in there", but that is where i was hoping i could get some insight from everyone. I really want to get as close to a full list of stuff that i will need, put it into a spreadsheet, and keep track of everything the correct way. So what does everyone think? What parts of the rebuild process can i do myself to significantly save on labor costs without endangering the health of my car. It seems like as long as i have the right resources (tools, books, diagrams, etc) i can do most of the stuff with basic air tools while the engine is pulled and placed on an engine stand, so as long as i take my time?

BREAKDOWN FOR NON-READERS
Car:1995 Eclipse GSX
Goals:Daily driver that eventually will be around 400-500WHP
Budget: Bought car with 136k miles, spun rod bearing, all parts (minus intercooler, front bumper) for $800. before cosmetic changes do not want to go over $1500-$1800 for engine/supporting mods, bolt-ons. IF POSSIBLE.
Questions:
  • Anyone have a complete list of parts needed for a 7bolt -> 6bolt conversion and supporting internals needed for ~500WHP?
  • Any advice for first time "rebuild"?
  • What are some good junkyards in Oregon/Washington for DSMs usually? More for 2gb exterior/interior pieces than engine/mechanical parts.
 
There's a youtube series all about building 6-bolt 4g63's, search for jafromobile on youtube.
I'm at about the same place you are (96 gsx I'm almost done buying all the parts for, motor just needs machine work and to be assembled):hellyeah:.
Anyway, jafro helped me realize just how many directions a rebuild can go. His series narrowed down my goals to something realistic and affordable. I "feel" like I know what I'm doing now, even if I don't understand everything completely. I especially like drinking a beer and watching all the jafro vids after work! :thumb:
 
I just did a full rebuild so Ill try to throw you some input based on my experience.

First off, LABEL EVERYTHING. I labeled every single bolt/nut/connector I took off. Aside from obvious stuff like injector connectors, battery terminals and the like everything had a piece of tape with a number on it, and a brief description. When it came time to put it back together everything had a home and not one bolt was left over unless I replaced it with a new one.

Saving Money

To help with this do as much of the work as you feel comfortable with. I didnt feel comfortable with putting my crank shaft, connecting rods, pistons and rings in. So I basically had the shop do a short block while I did everything else myself. There was nothing on my block aside from those things. I did the oil pan, rear main seal, head, all the coolant piping etc. I would not try to cut corners on parts.

The Block

First thing is finding a trusted shop to do all your machining. Once that is done, I personally like to see my parts before they are installed or put together. I made it a point to drop by the shop several times actually and see/touch/lick if you want, my parts. Ended up sending the crank back to be re-machined due to a slight "nub" on one of the oil ports. Checked my rods and pistons just to ensure everything looked good to me. One final thing to look for is to make sure all the freeze plugs were installed. There is one (on a 7 bolt block) on the trans side that cant be done with it on the stand. The shop forgot about this but I luckily caught it and it was an easy fix. Not so fun after the fact.

The Head

I had revised lifters put in, other than that the normal hot tank, decked and resealed. So perhaps a little research will help you with your 272 install. I went with ARP studs also. Sorry not much help there.

Everything Else

Random parts that I stumbled upon when building my block was all the extra components. Like the timing. I replaced every single timing part. The two pullies, the belt tensioner, the oil pump and the BSE kit were all oem. I put a new crank sensor and plate on. The timing belt I went with a gates racing belt, as well as my power steering and alt belt. The water pump I also went with gates. I advise red loctite for the stub shaft if you choose to do the BSE, and do the oil filter housing port mod found here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/319342-oil-pressure-relief-valve-porting.html. Luckily I found this just prior to installing it. Your clutch/tob/pp may need to be replaced as well as shift fork and ball. I also decided to put new lower mounts with prothane inserts and put prothane inserts in my two side mounts as well. With your engine out and being worked, now is the time to pretty everything up a bit. I painted my entire engine bay black after cleaning every inch of it with purple degreaser and water. I also cleaned every single part that went on the motor and painted that as well even the trans got some love. I wire brushed all the old gasket material off everything, I used blue loctite on almost everything. Dont forget to prime that oil pump just prior to install. I knew eventually I would want more stuff like a radiator and hoses etc. but I decided to focus on everything that I needed to do with the engine being out and things I couldnt do very easily with the engine in.

Conclusion

To wrap it up. Basically just take your time, research something if your unsure of how to do it and dont half a$$ it. Triple quadruple check every single thing. When I tightened my oil pump bolts, I knew I got them all but I went back over them again just to be 100% clear. I had a buddy with me the entire time to make sure I didnt over look anything. I told him if he felt like I needed to triple check something again, to just say it and no questions asked I did it. Take lots of pictures of the break down and build up so you can reference things and share with your friends/family. When you have triple quadruple checked every single thing especially right before you are about to turn the key, check one more time. Grab a vid cam and record it, trust me its something you'll always remember. Dont stop checking for leaks EVER. I monitored my oil pressure and temperature like a hawk and I still do. I had one coolant leak coming from my thermostat housing and one hose that wasnt tightened properly even after my triple quadruple check so count on there being one. There are a million break in procedures so ill let you figure that part out everyone has a certain way they do it.

I hope this gave you a bit more of an idea of what to expect. I was scared outta my mind at first but these motors are very user friendly. If you have a question there are a ton of great people on this site feel free to send me a message as well, ill help as best i can. Good luck to you man.
 
first off GL on your build. second, hope you keep a DD no matter what. as far as your block you may be saving yourself time and headaches if you stay with a 7bolt. you can build a reliable 500hp on a 99 block which has a split thrust washer bearing that will hold up and not take a walk if built right by REPUTABLE (not sbr) shop. eagle rods wiseco combos are easy to come by, DONT BUY OFF EBAY. get your parts local from authorized dealers. Alamo Autosports has great deals if you cant find anyone. Evo valves, springs, retainers are a nice upgrade on a budget. 7 bolt heads flow well and you can clean up the casting imperfections with a dremmel and some sanding bits. Get oem gaskets, no felpro or cheap knockoffs. I like the evo 9 kevlar belt, great timing protection at a very fair price.

As far as turbos go, you will not get close to 500 on a 16g. you will need to look to the big guns there, 60 trims, gt30r, fp red, PTE or holset hx40. grab a set of injector dynamic injectors like the ID1000. engine management, dsmlink 600$. in short unless you are ok with blowing 3k including the cost of your car on a few weeks/months of "fun" , have a catastrophic break down and have to start over. You will need 5-8k plus your car with you doing most of the wrenching. there are at least 6 shops I personally know who will build your 7 bolt and warranty it for a year straight, assuming you dont lean out and melt. *crossing fingers for ya*

So... build a block and get your car running first and enjoy it. when you get extra money and everything is good then do an upgrade. times are tough and the american economy is tanking, just be smart and read our mistakes. again GL
 
I had a 0 mile motor with a spun bearing and it messed up my pistons, crank oil cooler. Head was ok.

I'm rebuilding it again. Before you start consider a jdm engine swap.
Pistons 500
Rods300
Crank 500
Bearings 100
Gaskets 200
Timing, oil, water pump, machining...when does it end?

My car is almost done. When the engine will be done... I have no idea.

I built a 2.1l 6bolt but what's it going to cost? Idk
Think about your goals and the time frame to make up your mind if its worth it.
If you get the car ready, you can order the engine and have it running the day it arrives. And you get a warranty! If I blow up this engine you know what my builder will say?
He will say "that sucks. So you want to build it again?"
 
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