The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

engine noise. rod knock/valve video

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

The intake manifold area...

Well what do you think would be causing that? I know of nothing inside your intake manifold that should make noise so maybe its time to take the manifold off and look inside if your claiming its coming from inside the intake manifold.

E: if its coming from the manifold why did you title this rod knock/valve? Neither of them are located inside your intake manifold, and rods are way far away... Seems to me like your just listening with your ears and that's not enough.. Go look threw the thread where this goes to diagnose your problem more accurately.
 
That's where it sound's like it coming from. Maybe the intake cam, sound travels so its hard to tell but I'm guessing its the top end. Maybe a bad injector? I'm asking for help. Doesn't sound good.
 
That's where it sound's like it coming from. Maybe the intake cam, sound travels so its hard to tell but I'm guessing its the top end. Maybe a bad injector? I'm asking for help. Doesn't sound good.

Listen, Your not going to get any help without doing some work yourself... :banghead: YOU MUST GO AND LOOK AT THAT THREAD TO FIND OUT HOW TO DIAGNOSE WHERE EXACTLY YOUR NOISE IS COMING FROM! IE STETHOSCOPE for cars, etc... Or if your not going to find out for yourself EXACTLY where the noise is coming from or look in the proper thread for a poor mans stethoscope, then just go call a mechanic because that's exactly what they will do. "doesnt sound good" is all the help your going to get without helping yourself, or getting some people to GUESS what it is, which isn't what you need.
 
I'm capable of doing my own work :) I just thought someone could give me some suggestions. In case its something simple. I guess ill just start tearing the top end off
 
noise does get louder as you rev the motor it could be a rod knock . try disconnecting a plug wire while revving the motor to see if the noise changes . just be carefull and use insulated pliers .
 
Do the rocker arms or lifters wear out?

The HLA's can wear out as you put it with age, or oil stop leak additives.

My best guess would be a spun out rear BS bearing.

Drop the oil pan and take a look.

This will also allow you to check the rods at the same time.
 
Update. I pulled spark plugs wires one at a time while the car was running the noise is still there. I drove it more today and the noise got worse. Also when I give light throttle for a second the vacuum increases to 24hg. It idles at 19hg. Usually when it give throttle the vacuum decrease's.
 
Update. I pulled spark plugs wires one at a time while the car was running the noise is still there. I drove it more today and the noise got worse. Also when I give light throttle for a second the vacuum increases to 24hg. It idles at 19hg. Usually when it give throttle the vacuum decrease's.

You still didn't bother to use a stethoscope, LOL.... :notgood: just keep driving till it breaks then you'll know :aha:
 
My bet is still on a spun rear BS bearing.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


A bad BS on the rear (intake side) will give a knock sound like a bad rod.

Drive it too much and since the the BS is not being held on center it will ruin the back casting of the front case.

If caught soon enough, MAYBE you can get away with just an in car BSE and not a full rebuild.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I pulled the oil pan. Rod bearing play on cylinder #3. Should I just replace the bearing? Also what manufacturer brand of rod bearings should I buy?
 
If it was knocking as bad as it was, replacing the bearing will knock again after a few moments of being started/driven. At this point the crank would need to be turned. My advice to you would be atleast use plastigauge and check the clearances and see if its even salvagable..
 
It wasn't knocking real bad. It sounded like a tapping. As long as it didn't eat through the bearing I should be fine right?
 
Yes and no. The bearing could have only minimal wear but normally when "rod knock" occurs, checking the specs on the journals should certainly be done. The link provided is an idea of what "plastigauging" is. Of course the proper specs for the 7 bolt would be needed.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qPRRE_tSBo]Checking bearing clearance in a engine using Plastigauge - YouTube[/ame]

Standard value: 0.02 - 0.05 mm (0008 - .0020 in.)
Limit: 0.1 mm (.004 in.)

These are the specs as to what the rod bearing clearances should be.
 
That did not sound like a lower end knock, sounded like a valve train issue...
If you want to rule out the lower end, use a mechanical oil pressure gauge with the engine at operating temperature and running at idle. Anything below normal specs indicates a bad oil pump not pumping enough oil or excessive oil clearances at the bearings.
 
I thought it was a lifter, so I replaced my lifters with the itm revised lifters. Noise is still there. So I pulled the plug wires one at time while it was tapping. When I pulled the plug on #3 cylinder the noise got a lot quieter. So I dropped the oil pan and I can move #3 rod a 1/16 of an inch about. Here's another video of how it sounded. http://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&persist_app=1&v=cfz0QLXDaqs
 
If there is a 1/16 of and inch play than the bearing is toast, the rod is toast as well as the crank. The engine is going to need a full rebuild. There is metal all thruout the oiling system. The oil pump is likely also junk as well as the turbo. At the very least you are going to need the block cleaned and honed, the crank turned, the rod rebuilt, a set of rings, bearings, gaskets and a new oil pump.
 
Bummer. I'm going to Mic the rod and if its alright then ill put new bearings in. If not I guess its rebuild time. Its just weird it would have a bad rod bearing at 86k miles... Previous owner must have abused the car bad or ran low on oil
 
Last edited:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top