Engine noise with video. Rod knock? lifter?

[OMZIG123]

I previously posted a mesage titled rod knock??? and mentioned I would post a video.

Here is the video from this morning.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DyMu0M1wrA
The noise sounds a little deeper then the recording but you can tell it is definitely from the left side and appears to come come within the valve train. Someone told me it was a rod knock but i disagree. From my understanding a rod knock doesnt go away at higher rpms and sounds much worse than this.

I havent removed the valve cover yet but curious as to the lifter/rocker arrangement. are they adjustable solid lifters or hyd lifters? Any other obvious thing I can look at to help the gurus further assist me in diagnosing the problem.

Thanks
Mike aka omzig

 

[EagleTalonTim]

Anyone know a cheaper way to fix my turbo?

 

[forcefed4]

Pics of the crack? How big is it? I went and listned to the vid again. It does sound like an exhaust leak. Maybe you can find a used turbine housing to replace it with. Do that and replace the inlet gasket and get the rest of the turbo bolts in.

Good eye tqmx1, I completely missed the missing bolts

 

[EagleTalonTim]

actually, there are 3 bolts holding the turbo. I saw that to in the video. one of the holes that you are seeing is where the heat shield bolts to. I can assure you, it is not an exhaust leak. It sounds like metal to metal. Cheap digital camera

 

[yukondoit]

The oil is rising because of fuel dilution, i'd pull the spark plugs and they tell if your running rich. If its adding up that fast I'd bet that one will be wet even. Get a scanner and check your fuel trims if those are within range I'd be you have a stuck injector.

Does your car start right away or does take a while, this would indicate fuel pressure bleeding down.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

It starts right away. even after letting it sit all night. starts withing 2 turns.

EDIT * It has stock injectors.

 

[tqmx1]

well, after fully inspecting everything today, I found a pretty good crack on the exhaust side of the turbo around the middle clamp. I bet that is what is causing the car to run rich. Is there any cheap way to fix that? I was thinking of braising it together or putting some JB weld on it. probably a stupid idea though. I just cannot afford a turbo right now As for the noise....still not sure yet. I have to work on the car outside in the grass and it was really hot today. Being lazy again

For a turbo, Search the classifieds. It looks like 14Bs are going for right around $100/150.

 

[1G90AWDTsi]

Perley03, just pull off oil pan and then turn the crank through driverside fender wall to bring each piston down for skirt checking?? I also get some fuel in my oil. I got practically an entire brand new modded motor and recently put 750cc inj. on BUT had the fuel in the oil before they were installed. I still gotta do that compression test to be sure it's not the rings, though I am highly doubtful it is. New je pistons and new bored, honed block. micropolished crank and balanced.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

Well, i was kind of wanting to upgrade to a little better turbo. but before I do that, I need to know what will bolt right up without changing anything but gaskets. I will be searching the forum on that one but if anyone knows what will be good at a decent price, hook me up

 

[perley03]

Perley03, just pull off oil pan and then turn the crank through driverside fender wall to bring each piston down for skirt checking?? I also get some fuel in my oil. I got practically an entire brand new modded motor and recently put 750cc inj. on BUT had the fuel in the oil before they were installed. I still gotta do that compression test to be sure it's not the rings, though I am highly doubtful it is. New je pistons and new bored, honed block. micropolished crank and balanced.

Yea, take a look at the pic i posted. That was taken with the Jeep on a lift with the pan off, showing the broken skirt. I found the remaining skirt in the sump of the oil pan, along with a bunch of shavings and chunks of metal from the cylinder wall. Further analysis showed that the cir clip on the wrist pin was not found on that cylinder, and that's what I think caused the wrist pin to move out over time. The motor had 160K on it, and was never rebuilt.
But anyways back to your situation. First thing I would do is a compression check on a warm motor. Do once cylinder at a time, starting with #1 and working to #4, with the MPI relay unplugged. Make sure you have a good battery, if not hook up a good charger with a high amp boost. Then perform a "wet test", same thing as a compression check, but dump in a cap-full of oil to each cylinder and record your results. If your compression jumps up after doing this, your rings are toast. Time for a rebuild. Then I would pull the pan and check each skirt. Use a mag light or some type of high output light to check for cracks in the skirts. Either way I would check these as your symptoms are similar to mine.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

I am pretty sure it is not a piston skirt. I have changed the oil after hearing the noise and it came out black with absolutely no metal in it. I really think it is the timing. I will pull down the side of the motor again and crank the car to see if i can pinpoint it on there. What should I do about the turbo? Is there any other turbo's that will bolt right up that are a little better than the stock. I have read that the Automatic cars have a smaller turbo than the Standards.

 

[c4uldr0n]

there are no bolt on turbos for an auto... the exhaust manifold and turbo are different than others... I'd recommend a 14b or 16g turbo w/ a 2G exhaust manifold if you want a pretty decent upgrade.

-c4

 

[EagleTalonTim]

what about the O2 sensor housing. is that different? What will bolt up to that?

 

[EagleTalonTim]

I finally tore down the side of the motor and cranked it up for a second. The grinding noise that I was hearing is my hydrolic tensioner letting the pulley grind against the top of a bolt. As for the oil overfull, I changed the oil, added some SeaFoam and now the oil is perfectly fine. After I tore down the side of the motor, I noticed that I am the lucky owner of a 7 bolt Knowing these motors are notorious for crank walk, I tugged on the HB and noticed that it had a little bit of play back and forth. It was very minuet but it was still there. Would replacing the thrust bearing on the crank possibly fix that? I need the car to run for awhile with no major problems until I can afford a 6 bolt motor. I will be ordering a tensioner from oreilly auto parts soon to fix the noise. I also noticed that the oil pressure gauge sits really low. I have checked the oil flow in the valve cover and it was just fine to me. It threw oil out of the cap at idle so I figure that is good. I tried cleaning the sending unit and the pressure went up a little bit but started to sit lower and lower each day that I ran it. Could that just be the sensor or is it something major?

 

[forcefed 95]

to be honest every one is so affraid of crank walk but if your car is still movign alon just fine and has had her share of being around the block so to speak your gonna be ok. i got a 95 gst so if anything i should be more worried about it than you but im not casue i got 105k on my clok and shes still purring show no sign of slowing down. Of course this is all with proper nurtioring and tlc.

But on to topic glade to see that you fixed the problem and it was nothion to serious and in depth. Glade to see youll have back and in running order.

 

[SevensOdd]

I had the exact same noise. it would be loud at low rpms but would seem to disappear at higher rpms. For me it was the tensioner. Before you start buying what people think is the problem, trust me and at LEAST check your tensioner. im 99.9% sure thats whats wrong after watching the video

EDIT: sorry just saw your post on the fixing of the problem. I WAS RIGHT!